I just got tuned this past weekend on my built 2.0LR on a ETS 6262 kit. I have the stock Radiator and stock cap with 80k miles on the cap. I made 650hp and 465tq on q16 @ 35psi. It seemed fine on the dyno, but the night after I went out to test it out and the overflow problem started. I knew right away, that something was wrong. It didnt overheat or nothing. And it seems to run okay. I went through 2 head gaskets already. Should I try changing the radiator cap first, or just rip the head off?

Please help??? Any suggestions or advise? I resused Maperformance's L19 once already. Iam pretty sure Iam lifting the head under that boost. Maybe the bolts stretched? I dont know?

 

What head gasket are you using, and what pistons are you using? Compression?

Who build the motor and machined it?

 

I am using a stock head gasket. Buschur built the motor and head. I assembled it all myself. 2.0 long rod. So I believe it's 10:0:1. He pistons

 

How are you torquing the head down? Have you checked the surface of the head and the block to make sure it is perfectly flat?

 

Head is lifting again dude. You need a stopper gasket like Cosworth

 

EvoM needs a like button.. I use Cosworth gaskets whenever possible. Their FSL gaskets are bangin' like a biscuit.

 

Hey Adam: did you work at maperformance? This is Nivez. I bought the head studs from you. You said your company was using it in their 1000hp Evo, so I got them. I am not saying that's why the head is lifting, but this will be the second time that I pull the head. Is the bolts stretching under 35psi? I am using the OEM head gasket, because STM and buschur swear by it. A professional mechanic friend of mine who's built hundreds of Evo's, torqued the head in secquence of oem recommendations. Buschur advise me to do the final tq to 110ft lbs. The head was milled by a reputable machine shop and pressure tested before installation. Oring was also changed.

 

Yes, please see sig.

As far as the head studs stretching, I highly doubt it. We use it on 50psi, and other people have been using them on some serious boost as well. They are H11, to get them to stretch would need much more cylinder pressure.

It's time to dump that stock head gasket, get a Cosworth FSL, and make sure the block and head are completely flat and not angled in any way. Torque the studs in the stock sequence but with these torque numbers, 20-40-60-90-95 make the last torque only 5ft/lbs. Torquing to 110ftlbs is not ideal unless the block was machined with a torque plate WITH L19/H11 studs holding it on.

 

I have seen them on 50+ PSI also where stock head gaskets just blow out the multi layers. Just wait until you start blowing freeze plugs out of the front of the block, that's when things get fun

 

I definetly don't want to do that.

 

he runs a cometic HG and map h11 studs @ 120tq.. car went 10.7 @ 134 with a dead clutch. cars fixed now and has a very safe tune on it.

figured id add some positive in this thread.

 

When you say H11 is it the same thing as L19? Are they the same part?

 

Since the head gasket was just changed about two months ago, I think I'll start small and replace the radiator cap first. According to my tuner, he doesent think its something major. Since I am using a stock radiator cap that has 80k on it, it might be the smartest thing to do first.

Stm also said to try using their 1.3 koyo radiator cap for starters. What do you guys think?

 

i run L19 in my personal evo. ran fp blacks up to 48psi with no issues.. if the tunes off you will pop headgaskets also.. keep that in mind.

personally ive never blew a hg in my personal evo yet to this date.. the worst ive done was run to stiff of a spring in a mbc before (a beta spring) and it tried to run excess of 50psi~ to the point it blew the waterpump gasket out from creeping in 4th..

if you're killing headgaskets you have serious cylinder pressure issues.. because it takes a hell of a lot to take out HG's.

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I was referring to the heavy duty h11 head studs from map.. with dog point ends. they are actually better then the ARP L19 and cheaper.. win/win situation right there.

these: http://www.maperformance.com/map-ult...11mmhdstd.html

 

theres absolutely no need to run bigger then 1.1 bar (stock pressure) coolant cap.. unless the cars a time attack car or used heavily in endurance racing where it sees high RPM long periods of time.. then you can benefit from it since it will actually help cooling with the higher pressure ran in the system.

i think your tuners the problem.. to much timing maybe in the car or the boost control is not up to what it should be.. i dont know.

2.4's are very sensitive so you have to know what you're doing to keep them together at high boost / power levels.