can you run stock cam gears on a 2.4 ?
can you run stock cam gears on a 2.4 ?
Hey guys did a little searching but no one answered my question.....Can you use the stock cam gears on a 2.4 build ? I don't sit easy with the adjustable's..
do u think u can find the article im sure u can use them or the stock ones i dont see anywhere that says you cant i just wanted to see if it has been done ..........
on high boost forums i just found this
"So stock Evo cam gears are out of the question? Can't be used right? Thanks guys for the answers!
You can use them but you need to degree them, the stock marks do not get used."
"So stock Evo cam gears are out of the question? Can't be used right? Thanks guys for the answers!
You can use them but you need to degree them, the stock marks do not get used."
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From what I understand, you aren't degreeing the cams at all. The taller deck height makes it impossible to 0 out the cams with the timing marks.
Regardless of the valve cover marks, you want the cams at 0 with the #1 piston at tdc. When you adjust the crank to the timing mark on the block, and the cams at 0, the teeth don't line up with the belt since the deck height is off.
You WANT the cams at 0, so you align the POST on the end of the cam with the timing marks on the valve cover. And then you adjust the gear + or - in order to slip the belt on. So even though the adjustable cam gear is indicating the cam isn't at 0, it really is. You're just using the gear to get the belt on, not to degree the cams at all.
Regardless of the valve cover marks, you want the cams at 0 with the #1 piston at tdc. When you adjust the crank to the timing mark on the block, and the cams at 0, the teeth don't line up with the belt since the deck height is off.
You WANT the cams at 0, so you align the POST on the end of the cam with the timing marks on the valve cover. And then you adjust the gear + or - in order to slip the belt on. So even though the adjustable cam gear is indicating the cam isn't at 0, it really is. You're just using the gear to get the belt on, not to degree the cams at all.
The proper way to degree a cam is to get everything lined up at TDC, tension the belt. Then loosen the gear and move it + or -. That is NOT what you're doing in this scenario. You're actually using the gear to simply move the teeth around, not degree the cam.
It's tough to read and understand, but when you actually do it it's easy.
It's tough to read and understand, but when you actually do it it's easy.
I have a better way of explaining it. This is just a generic 4g63 pic off google. Ignore the timing marks, assume that both cams are 0'd out.

If you were to take the timing belt OFF, you could adjust the teeth on these gears WITHOUT moving the cams. The teeth move back and forth, but the cams sit still in the head.
So... what you are doing is leaving the cams at 0 degrees, loosening the gear and moving it so you can slip the belt on. You aren't degreeing the cams.
This is why you can't use a stock gear. Because you WILL be degreeing the cams to get the belt on.

If you were to take the timing belt OFF, you could adjust the teeth on these gears WITHOUT moving the cams. The teeth move back and forth, but the cams sit still in the head.
So... what you are doing is leaving the cams at 0 degrees, loosening the gear and moving it so you can slip the belt on. You aren't degreeing the cams.
This is why you can't use a stock gear. Because you WILL be degreeing the cams to get the belt on.
just one thing though. You dont want to be moving the belt when you have the crank lined up at tdc. no ?
What you are doing is moving the cams so that they are zero'd out or in actually they are being degreed to zero.
So it should be your crank lining up with its mark so the number 1 piston is tdc and the cams will read around 3-4 degrees advanced i think john bradley said.
I myself am building a 2.4l and i dont see why you would bother trying to get stock cam gears to work when its better to just have adjustable ones especially with big after market cams so they can be degreed right.
What you are doing is moving the cams so that they are zero'd out or in actually they are being degreed to zero.
So it should be your crank lining up with its mark so the number 1 piston is tdc and the cams will read around 3-4 degrees advanced i think john bradley said.
I myself am building a 2.4l and i dont see why you would bother trying to get stock cam gears to work when its better to just have adjustable ones especially with big after market cams so they can be degreed right.
The valve cover is indicating that the cams are at 0 when they line up with the marks. You are leaving the cams lined up with those marks, just moving the ring on the gear so the teeth line up. The cams themselves are still at 0, the ring on the gear is rotated to the belt can slip on.
In other words, if the cams were facing perfect 0. And the crank lined up at tdc. You could move the teeth on the gear so it read -15 degrees, and slip the belt on. As long as the cam itself hasn't moved and the crank is still at tdc, that whole thing is 0's out. Regardless of what the gear says.
In other words, if the cams were facing perfect 0. And the crank lined up at tdc. You could move the teeth on the gear so it read -15 degrees, and slip the belt on. As long as the cam itself hasn't moved and the crank is still at tdc, that whole thing is 0's out. Regardless of what the gear says.






