low sputtering idle after driving through puddle.
Mar 4, 2012, 10:49 AM
#16
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so there all reading 80 to 90, with the 3rd cylinder reading 75, but with low battery. the second and third cylinder had the lowest, with the first and fourth at 90. seems a little low but i figure it's because i have a half battery. plus the engine is cold.
does this seem like there may be a problem with the 2nd and 3rd cylinders? each time they read consistently, first time i checked third i had 80 and the last time 75
the 1st and fourth consistently read 90, until i checked the first a second time i got 85 it definitely seems like i'm getting better compression in 1st and fourth consistently even with the battery falling off. is this enough difference to indicate possibly a bent piston rod caused by hydro lock? i have stock internals so I imagine if that happened it would have broke completely. I'm really pretty sure i didn't encounter enough water to lock it though. i revved up to like 6k after and then it started sputtering.
where can i find crank and cam sensors on a sunday? would advance auto or autozone or pepboys carry them?
does this seem like there may be a problem with the 2nd and 3rd cylinders? each time they read consistently, first time i checked third i had 80 and the last time 75
the 1st and fourth consistently read 90, until i checked the first a second time i got 85 it definitely seems like i'm getting better compression in 1st and fourth consistently even with the battery falling off. is this enough difference to indicate possibly a bent piston rod caused by hydro lock? i have stock internals so I imagine if that happened it would have broke completely. I'm really pretty sure i didn't encounter enough water to lock it though. i revved up to like 6k after and then it started sputtering.
where can i find crank and cam sensors on a sunday? would advance auto or autozone or pepboys carry them?
. It wouldn't be turning over at all if it were hydro-locked. As far as your compression, 75 seems a little low compared to the others, but I don't see that as being too bad. You also never said if the SES/CEL light is on.
Mar 4, 2012, 10:53 AM
#17
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it is on, but the only code it's throwing which it has been for a while is the po300 code, it now won't turn over at all. should i get both the crank and cam sensors? and how do I replace them? is there a writeup or anything on the forum? i was hoping i could at least get it to start so i could look at some of the values, but i'm getting nothing out of it.
Mar 4, 2012, 11:11 AM
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Well the compression numbers are all within range, with a dead battery.
So after it started running like crap you looked up what the service light was on for? Besides the P0300?
Even though p0300 is a random misfire code. Which could be related to a dying CPS. But was also resolved with a tune.
The CAS is less time consuming vs the CPS. The CPS you have to remove the timing belt covers and work the sensor and wiring around the timing belt.
I'd go with OEM sensors, those parts store crap are always hit or miss. That's your call.
So after it started running like crap you looked up what the service light was on for? Besides the P0300?
Even though p0300 is a random misfire code. Which could be related to a dying CPS. But was also resolved with a tune.
The CAS is less time consuming vs the CPS. The CPS you have to remove the timing belt covers and work the sensor and wiring around the timing belt.
I'd go with OEM sensors, those parts store crap are always hit or miss. That's your call.
Mar 4, 2012, 11:19 AM
#19
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no, i've been throwing that code since i got it... it was one of the reasons i was able to get the car for so little.
so you think it's about 100 for each or 100 for both?
I'll probably just cop both of them. although i moved the spark plug from cylinder 4 to cylinder 3 and now three is the only one with signs of firing. although not quite as obvious as 4 was.
i'm definitely leaning towards cas or cps... although i've heard that if the cps is done, you won't get any spark is that right?
so you think it's about 100 for each or 100 for both?
I'll probably just cop both of them. although i moved the spark plug from cylinder 4 to cylinder 3 and now three is the only one with signs of firing. although not quite as obvious as 4 was.
i'm definitely leaning towards cas or cps... although i've heard that if the cps is done, you won't get any spark is that right?
Mar 4, 2012, 11:31 AM
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no, i've been throwing that code since i got it... it was one of the reasons i was able to get the car for so little.
so you think it's about 100 for each or 100 for both?
I'll probably just cop both of them. although i moved the spark plug from cylinder 4 to cylinder 3 and now three is the only one with signs of firing. although not quite as obvious as 4 was.
i'm definitely leaning towards cas or cps... although i've heard that if the cps is done, you won't get any spark is that right?
so you think it's about 100 for each or 100 for both?
I'll probably just cop both of them. although i moved the spark plug from cylinder 4 to cylinder 3 and now three is the only one with signs of firing. although not quite as obvious as 4 was.
i'm definitely leaning towards cas or cps... although i've heard that if the cps is done, you won't get any spark is that right?
The CAS IIRC is only used to tell your ECU how much timing advance/retard the cams have for both the intake and exhaust (which is why there is 2), so it can adjust them automatically. If your CAS(s) were bad, your car would still run, it just wouldn't have much power at all while running. It wouldn't be dead. But again, that's only IIRC, so I'm sure someone may correct me on this one lol
Mar 4, 2012, 11:44 AM
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Not that I can find. Take your timing covers off (the front covers for your engine where your timing belt is, and at the bottom right next to the Crank pully is the CPS (or CAS (Crank Angle Sensor)) with 2 bolts in it. Undo those two bolts and follow the wires for it up the side of your timing belt housing to the connector that it plugs into for your wiring harness. I believe that connector is actually by your front 02 sensor plug on top of the valve cover underneath that valve cover... cover, or whatever you want to call it. lol. Just unplug the CPS and un-route the wires, re-route the new wires for the sensor and bolt it back up. Check your Crank pully (as there are specific grooves in it that tell the sensor where the crank is at (works like a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)), and make sure you try to clean those off as best as possible. Put your covers back on and tada. That is the new sensor on. Charge your battery and crank away.
Mar 4, 2012, 12:33 PM
#23
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right on... i called advance autozone and pepboys nobody has it in stock. i hope mitsubishi dealerships will carry them... otherwise i'm wo car for the next 3 days minimum
Mar 5, 2012, 11:51 AM
#25
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I'd think by now wet electronics would be dried out. The ECU as well as the starter need a certain amount of voltage to work. So, if the battery is low, get it charged. Then do the compression check again.
Don't be to quick to rule out hydrolock. A coworker drove his pickup through some water. Called me after he had it towed home. I said hydrolock. No way, he and his dad had checked for water in the cylinders and in the oil. The insurance company had to buy him a new engine.
Don't be to quick to rule out hydrolock. A coworker drove his pickup through some water. Called me after he had it towed home. I said hydrolock. No way, he and his dad had checked for water in the cylinders and in the oil. The insurance company had to buy him a new engine.
Mar 6, 2012, 03:30 PM
#26
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I just received the cps today... when i got home from work i changed the plugs and began to remove the screws for the cam cover and the timing belt cover... got underneath and realized that the cover is around the harmonic balancer and other pulleys connected to the serpentine belt. Do i have to remove the belt and pulleys before i can take the cover off of the timing belt and crank pulley or will it somehow pull free without needing to remove everything. I have until 11 tomorrow morning. so far i got the cam cover off, but i stopped at the timing chain cover once i realized it had so many obstructions. i know for my jeep i had to remove the balance and v belts to access the timing chain, previous posts lead me to believe this would be as easy as 1 2 3
Mar 6, 2012, 03:39 PM
#27
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not that they made me think, I just thought in my stupid head it would be a 123 kind of thing!
although he did say i'd have to work the wire through the belt...
the timing belt maybe, I really don't feel like doing all that work first thing tomorrow morning but if that's what it is, that's what it is.
although he did say i'd have to work the wire through the belt...
the timing belt maybe, I really don't feel like doing all that work first thing tomorrow morning but if that's what it is, that's what it is.
Mar 6, 2012, 04:19 PM
#28
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I'm pretty sure ill have to remove them now that I'm looking at it. If I can ill take pictures and stuff and write up a how to.
If anyone knows the answer to my previous post though let me know cause if I can avoid removing all that gear it would be great.
If anyone knows the answer to my previous post though let me know cause if I can avoid removing all that gear it would be great.
Mar 7, 2012, 07:36 PM
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I just received the cps today... when i got home from work i changed the plugs and began to remove the screws for the cam cover and the timing belt cover... got underneath and realized that the cover is around the harmonic balancer and other pulleys connected to the serpentine belt. Do i have to remove the belt and pulleys before i can take the cover off of the timing belt and crank pulley or will it somehow pull free without needing to remove everything. I have until 11 tomorrow morning. so far i got the cam cover off, but i stopped at the timing chain cover once i realized it had so many obstructions. i know for my jeep i had to remove the balance and v belts to access the timing chain, previous posts lead me to believe this would be as easy as 1 2 3
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