I would say its your TOB. My car does the same thing and I have 2008 Lancer ES (FI). I havent change my clutch, witch slips like hot dog down a hallway. And from time to time, when in neutral my clutch doesnt disengage and my rpm clime on their own like a stuck gas pedal (which I know its not).

 

lol, I think I have my new sig

 

I disagree. If it's bled properly and still not fully disengaging then it's most likely something like the clutch disc sticking on the input splines or has runout, or is warped. There is still a whole list of other things that could cause it to not fully disengage but you won't know until you pull the trans back out and measure stuff.

 

If their is air in the slave, will it cause the clutch to not release? I've bled it but no air came out. So maybe it's stuck? I've read of others having to bleed the crap out of his clutch line to get the air out. I did not do this.

 

I just changed my clutch. Tob should be new as well albeit the excedy one. Have you tried adjusting your clutch?

 

I don't think aq Motorsports is willing to do that as they already changed the fluids to oem... So I'm out of luck there... Unless I can come up with a very good excuse maybe they might, I still have to call him back...

 

Here's my other thread which I have explained in great details of my CLUTCH LOCKOUT issue with pictures of slave cylinder depressed and not. Please read.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/dr...ng-issues.html

 

I think I know why removing this pill does wonders for some people and not so for others. I believe my "pill" is due to some old brake fluid "chunks" which I've seen bleeding my brakes but thought nothing of it. I'll reconfirm once I take out the pill just in case anybody's been following me since I've read some were having this issue as well

 

Part number for the autozone speed bleeder. Is it the same for brakes also?

 

^I'd like to know as well

 

Glad you like it. Where in NoVa are you in. I used to live in Alexandria.

 

Bumping this because I am about to remove the restrictor however I am worried that this may increase the chances of my popping off the clip in my clutch. Does this only happen with multi-plate clutches? I am still running the factory clutch.

I may just purchase the STM Clutch Fork Stopper for piece of mind but I would like to know if there is no point given that I am still running the factory clutch.

 

Take it out. there is 0 advantage to keeping it in.

 

Will removing the pill make it easier to shift fast at lower rpms?

When shifting between 6k-redline I don't really notice a "hang". But when trying to shift quickly at lower rpms (3k-4k), there is a hang and the shifts don't seem smooth. This is my first manual, so I I'm trying to figure out if I'm just a scrub-a-dub-nub, or if removing the restrictor will help me out.

 

Use OEM fluid in the tranny (diaqueen). Certain fluids make the syncros act funny effecting engagement. Everyone has their opinion on this, but in my case in it cured all my issue as far as gear lockout. It could also be your clutch pedal needing adjustment. How much play is at the top of the travel? If its more than factory spec you could possibly not be fully disengaging the clutch even when the pedal is on the floor. As far as the pill removal there are no cons unless your a careless driver. Pros are well documented; modulation etc..If your going to the trouble of bleeding your clutch its a no brainer to remove it. Should be the 1st mod all evo owners do.