My clutch engagement is high, but I don't have an exact distance right now.

Regarding the clutch not fully disengaging, is there anyway to test other than rev it 7k in first with clutch full depressed? I don't have evoscan yet so I can't disable 2-step.

 

I just removed my pill today. I've only driven about 2 hours on the new setup, but first impressions were that it grabs incredibly low.

It's literally *right* off the floor, but since the car only has ~600 miles on it I think it's just the brand new clutch. Before it would still grab low, but about 1.5 inches higher with a mushy feeling.

Now it's very direct and solid. Like others have said shifting 2-3 and 3-4 is much easier now without the notchy feeling.

I'm impressed at how easy it was on the X. It's right below the airbox and simple to get at. We had it off in 10 minutes tops. We noticed the metal rail connecting the assembly to the slave cylinder wants to bend as you're tightening the banjo bolt. We stuffed small pipe between the trans and the assembly while torqing the banjo bolt to keep it from turning with the bolt which prevented any issues.

Then we bled the clutch 3-4 times and topped it off. Drives great. What an awesome mod.

 

removed it on my last evo, have not gotten around to doing it on this one. It's made the car much more enjoyable to drive and makes it seems as if our tranny's arent complete junk.

 

he's crazy or he's trying to steer you away from the fact that his install job isn't up to par

 

Reviving for some info:

Reading around there are some that state the removal of the clutch restrictor can cause the TOB clip to dislodge from the pressure plate; is there any merit to this statement?

Also has anyone who wanted to keep the restrictor in ever tried modifying the plastic such as possibly drilling a slightly larger hole in the restrictor itself?

Thinking to do this in the E7 but not sure I want to risk having that TOB problem.

 

Bump for info

 

My 0.02 its worth it. When my clutch was installed they put in the ss upper and lower lines, and adjusted my clutch pedal higher, works great. Im on act hdss with pro flywheel. Now at 50 k..... Just make sure to change your brakefluid and clutch fluid every 30 k or so.....good luck.

 

Removing the pill was the best free mod I've done besides not letting my GF ride with me. Now I hear less *****ing when I drive.

 

On my list of things to do

 

I have 166,000 miles on my Evo. Clutch restrictor pill has been out since at least 50,000 miles, if not sooner. Zero problems. And there is a cool new ACT solution for the clip on Evo pull cutches...

http://www.maperformance.com/blog/20...-rx7-and-more/

 

Its been said many times, and even companies out there specifically tell you if its "lockout" or in other words, cannot go into gear, at any rpm, is called Clutch Drag. This means the clutch does not disengage all the way, thereby forcing the synchros to work much harder at matching the engines' speed. If forced into gear with this problem, instantly fries the syncro and output shaft.

See here: http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...kills-synchros

Best way to test your problem. Put into gear, rev engine to highest you can get (ideal to remove rev limiter or launch control), and see if the car creeps forward. Dont release clutch anytime during this test. This test proves if the clutch is dragging. If it does move, you have a list of issues it will be. Firstmost, starting with the installation, then the bleeding of the master cylinder. If it doesnt, then it might be installation error, bad transmission or bad trans output shaft.