Exedy Twin Disc Disengagement issues PLEASE HELP!!!!
Exedy Twin Disc Disengagement issues PLEASE HELP!!!!
Ok i got a 06 Evo MR alil over a week ago i was in third gear got on it to bout 6k at 22lbs boost on my 35r shifted to 4th then just start cruising cause when i shifted to fourth my clutch began to act funny drove for about another hour an a half and it got worst so bad when id get to a stop id have to force the car in gear. So problems and thinks ive tried.
When car is off goes into every gear fine no problems
start the car in neutral go to put in first through reverse wont do it unless you absolutely force it
there was nothing wrong with my trans no grinding all the gears worked flawlessly
so i just put the trans back in today thinking i fixed i put a new retainer clip replaced disc a due to 2 broken springs and a new throwout bearing bled the clutch for about 10 mins and adjusted it in every position possible
throwout bearing slides as it should no binding nothing everything is functioning the way it should my clutch just wont fully disengage and yes i staggered the disc like you should also disc b the disc closest to the engine the spline hub seemed alil sloppy when i was putting it back together but just disregarded it cus i need the car and funds are tight right now.
Im sorry for making this so long i just want everyone to know what i have done so far. oh and there is no problems with my shift cables or bushings.
I have searched everywhere and have not found a clear answer on what the problem is anyone please help regardless i am pulling the trans out seems how it must be something with the clutch just anyone that can point me in the right direction for when i get it tore apart
When car is off goes into every gear fine no problems
start the car in neutral go to put in first through reverse wont do it unless you absolutely force it
there was nothing wrong with my trans no grinding all the gears worked flawlessly
so i just put the trans back in today thinking i fixed i put a new retainer clip replaced disc a due to 2 broken springs and a new throwout bearing bled the clutch for about 10 mins and adjusted it in every position possible
throwout bearing slides as it should no binding nothing everything is functioning the way it should my clutch just wont fully disengage and yes i staggered the disc like you should also disc b the disc closest to the engine the spline hub seemed alil sloppy when i was putting it back together but just disregarded it cus i need the car and funds are tight right now.
Im sorry for making this so long i just want everyone to know what i have done so far. oh and there is no problems with my shift cables or bushings.
I have searched everywhere and have not found a clear answer on what the problem is anyone please help regardless i am pulling the trans out seems how it must be something with the clutch just anyone that can point me in the right direction for when i get it tore apart
sounds like u need to adjust the clutch pedal rod. there is a how to i would post the how to but on a phone. just search how to adjust clutch pedal. i garuntee thats your problem if it goes into gear fine with the car off but not on also if the car is creeping forward a lil bit before it slips into gear thats another syptom as well let us know what happens when u do that. if you adjust to much you will block off the valve and the clutch will slip keep in mind
I tried to adjust the rod on the clutch in every position and i adjusted it for the correct way it should be adjusted also if i start the car in 1st gear and let up off the brakes it does creep forward and now the car is at the point of when the car is running in neutral and i try to put it in first it will creep forward and not go in at all no matter how i high i rev it and im not gonna use all my strength to put the car in gear for the fact of possibly breaking something but i am getting ready to tear it apart again and inspect the clutch once again. The only thing i can think of is my floater plate being warped cause one or both of the disc to not disengage properly. Also i was thinking my pressure plate but when i was inspecting it the fingers and purple housing was not cracked or broken so i think that rules that out
I tried to adjust the rod on the clutch in every position and i adjusted it for the correct way it should be adjusted also if i start the car in 1st gear and let up off the brakes it does creep forward and now the car is at the point of when the car is running in neutral and i try to put it in first it will creep forward and not go in at all no matter how i high i rev it and im not gonna use all my strength to put the car in gear for the fact of possibly breaking something but i am getting ready to tear it apart again and inspect the clutch once again. The only thing i can think of is my floater plate being warped cause one or both of the disc to not disengage properly. Also i was thinking my pressure plate but when i was inspecting it the fingers and purple housing was not cracked or broken so i think that rules that out
The clutch has about 3 k on it yes it was installed properly i did it myself i got it tore apart and freddie i was thinking the same thing that the floater plate was warped but i took disc b and tried to put it on my input shaft and id have to force it on so because of the disc not be able to slide freely on that im thinking that is my problem i may also get a new floater plate to be safe
Is it bled? Did you check the slave to see if it was bad? Any fluid leak whatsoever?
The clutch has about 3 k on it yes it was installed properly i did it myself i got it tore apart and freddie i was thinking the same thing that the floater plate was warped but i took disc b and tried to put it on my input shaft and id have to force it on so because of the disc not be able to slide freely on that im thinking that is my problem i may also get a new floater plate to be safe
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Yes i bled it for approx 10mins lol just to be sure and slave cylinder isnt leaking and correct me if im wrong but if a slave goes it either leaks or gets stuck in whatever position it is in at the time and mastercylinder is good provides excellent pressure i think i figured out what it is im thinking disc b being messed up is causing everything and double/triple checking the floater plate
Warped intermediate plate. If you inspect it again you'll see hot marks all over it. This happened to me and literally countless numbers of other Exedy Twin owners.
Everyone says "re adjust your clutch pedal, get a clutch pill delete, etc.", when normally, it's either a warped intermediate plate or you need to shim down the surface on the floater plate. Reason why I removed my Exedy Twin. It's nearly $1K to rebuild and so much sh*t was constantly going wrong with it.
I started this thread awhile ago that should prove helpful:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...twin-disc.html
Everyone says "re adjust your clutch pedal, get a clutch pill delete, etc.", when normally, it's either a warped intermediate plate or you need to shim down the surface on the floater plate. Reason why I removed my Exedy Twin. It's nearly $1K to rebuild and so much sh*t was constantly going wrong with it.
I started this thread awhile ago that should prove helpful:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...twin-disc.html
Last edited by Blue91lx; Apr 18, 2012 at 12:28 PM.
Warped intermediate plate. If you inspect it again you'll see hot marks all over it. This happened to me and literally countless numbers of other Exedy Twin owners.
Everyone says "re adjust your clutch pedal, get a clutch pill delete, etc.", when normally, it's either a warped intermediate plate or you need to shim down the surface on the floater plate. Reason why I removed my Exedy Twin. It's nearly $1K to rebuild and so much sh*t was constantly going wrong with it.
I started this thread awhile ago that should prove helpful:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...twin-disc.html
Everyone says "re adjust your clutch pedal, get a clutch pill delete, etc.", when normally, it's either a warped intermediate plate or you need to shim down the surface on the floater plate. Reason why I removed my Exedy Twin. It's nearly $1K to rebuild and so much sh*t was constantly going wrong with it.
I started this thread awhile ago that should prove helpful:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...twin-disc.html
I wish i would found that before i posted and ok so heres what i came up with disc b is definantly shot i checked center/floater plate and the plate between disc a and pressure plate with a straight edge no warpage they are good as for heat spots yes they do have em but seems how they are not warped in anyway im gonna just say its my disc b seems how it does not slide freely on my input shaft and i have to force it to put it on the shaft
correct me if im wrong but i think what i have found out seems pretty good and i should only have to replace the one friction disc
Ok so my problem has been solved. Disc B in my twin disc is what caused my problem. For all of you having problems with your exedy twin disc clutch and have bleed and adjusted your clutch. You will have to pull the trans and inspect your floater plate and the plate between disc a and the pressure plate. If those disc turn out to not be warped inspect the friction plates (disc a,Disc B) check them for the springs and the spline hubs. Slide them disc on your input shaft of the trans they should slide with ease.
Hope this helps someone else out.
Hope this helps someone else out.
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