Car is always around 1300-1400... 1600 most under full boost and high RPMs..
True ^ ...sent the injectors out today with the help of Brian from DynoTech. Very anxious to see the results at this point... This sucks!

 

I've seen enough unhappy customers coming from "The Shop" that I would steer clear away from them. Why did you think they are one of the best tuners. Where are their results?

This sucks that it happened but it sounds like you need a rebuild (if the crank and block are salvagable and for GOD SAKE A NEW TUNER!!!!

LOL. I know too soon, but I had to.

 

 

I would have the motor pulled, decked, and rebuilt by not only a reputable shop, but arguably one of maybe 4 or 5 that are on this board. I would also have the head decked while you're at it.

You should be using the stock head gasket as well. And as everyone else is saying, get a new tuner. The problem that people have is assuming there is a tuner near them who knows what they are doing. When you run motors as high strung as these little four cylinders are, you need people who SPECIALIZE in nothing but the 4G6x platform. There are only 3 or 4 people I can think of on this board who know how to tune remotely. But it is always a better idea to ship your car to a shop and have it tuned than it is to settle with a local shop just because you can drive there. Having a trained set of eyes and ears on your car when its being tuned can make the difference between 700hp and kaboom.

I've been through worse **** than you have with this build when I did my motor over a year ago, trust me. If I were you, I wouldn't settle on a shop unless you can find no fewer than 10 builds and dyno threads here on the forums of customers from that shop running 600+hp. Don't listen to your buddies or one or two good reviews on some website. Go with the guys who have a proven track record that goes back for many years. Only then will your car wind up in the right hands. If you truly believe that you are capable of doing this whole thing yourself, then God help you and I hope you're right. Being an engineer myself, I thought the same thing. Let's just say my shop does everything on my car now.

-Acree

 

To add to this. I know you say you've spent alot of money. I spent over 17k on my car last year. I've had issue after issue and it all boils down to going to a shop that "LOOKED" like they knew what they were doing. I did my homework as a consumer but after getting my car together I realize how much they did "NOT" know about the subtle nuances of this platform.

There are so many gotchas with this car when it comes to engine building, drivetrain, tuning, etc, if you haven't been doing it for a while or don't do it on a regular basis then it will bite you or "The Shop"(......I meant that as a pun) in the ***.

They will put it on the parts, the power, your choice in parts, the diameter of the sun, solar flares, your mother in law........They WILL NOT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY. I don't know your money situation or your time situation but you are too close to too many reputable shops (I mean next state over) to go through this again.

If you are loyal to "The Shop" I can understand but between what everyone has told you here about your issues, Dave's harsh but educated opinion on this and if you search this site I'm sure you will find some other review of the "The Shop"...........bottom line take you car somewhere else.

STM
Buschur Racing
Strictly Modified
STM
Buschur Racing


Ok those are the only ones off the top of my head but I'm sure there are other shops in NY/NJ/OH area that can get you right.

Good luck man. I've been where you are (hell I'm still dealing with the fall out of dealing with a shop that knew cars but didn't know a 2.4 Evo very well). Acree's odyssey has been chronicled here a lot, Search Nick Blaine as well as Localtoys73. Nickie's car finally got the best of him and he's done. LocalToys almost quit as well. I remember watching Arcee's frustration and I'm pretty much at the end of my rope with my car. Its not the cars fault its trusting the wrong people through no fault of our own.

If you decide to do it your self then you have no one else to blame but you (as long as you get a proper tune), but if you decide to have a seasoned professional do it. Do it right the first time and go with someone who (like Arcee says) has a proven track record. This site is great for research. Almost anyone worth their salt has had a review (at least one) on this site.

Good luck and keep us posted. I really am sick for you. I hope it all works out.

 

Thanks for the support and advice guys. Anyhow, injectors were sent out and I will keep people posted as I find new things.

 

You made a good choice giving Dynotech a shot

 

 

Bring the car to DynoTech for them to work some magic. With Jamie behind the laptop there will be another reliable EVO on the streets of CT in no time. Well once the motor is rebuilt. I am in Maryland now and once I find my Evo it is being driven up there for Jamie to work his magic. I use to work there on the side and he will not let it go out the door if it is not perfect. The rates are inexpensive in my mind for the amount of hours he puts into the car.


-Adam

 

I don't understand the question for some reason, it seems to me like you answered it yourself. The ones that fried show detonation on the cylinder walls and the two that didn't look correct. Just like the tops of the two that detonated show clean pistons tops, it's because the carbon/oil whatever was cooked off of them from the severe heat those cylinders saw.

 

and that can be done by hand as well. I never run pistons with those edges left sharp like that. I and gring those edges down . major over site by any engine builder if you ask me. just asking for trouble leaving such a sharp edge in chamber

 

Advancing timing too much on high octane fuel creates cyl head temps that melt things. Use forged parts and the thermal energy has nowhere to go and shifts to EGT and absorbed in the cooling system. The exhaust valves then turn into continuous-duration spark plugs waiting to be hot enough to light up the charge at 45 BTDC creating cyl pressures 5X that at peak TQ. The shock goes outward towards that part of the piston breaking off pieces. It's quite amazing how the lower parts didn't budge and the head stayed in the bay.

 

I was the engine builder and those pistons are in a hundred or so engines that have left here, 2.1's and 2.4's use the same basic piston design. If the TUNE has been right the car wouldn't have destroyed itself.

 

Just got of the phone, Injectors were perfect with all 4.

-Brian

 

I just reviewed the tune the OP sent it to me to review. No doubt about it the tuning is what caused the issue. Hi/low fuel maps set the same, timing hi/low set the same and the knock control was all set high to keep it from trying to correct in the first place. All of this could have been some what avoided if he had just turned on the CEL light to flash under knock, but it too was off. I don't always use that feature but with the tuning in this ECU I'd like to think SOMETHING would be done to protect the customer........