You don't want to look over anything. It's best to double check something so simple before buying more parts.

Who is your tuner, I'm sorry if I missed it. Late to the thread. I'm treating this with an unbiased look, maybe a week ago it would of been a little biased, but now that I'm a "free agent" all my post are to help you so please don't look at this negatively at all. I'm just trying to get a solution for you in the sake of the consumer.

Edit: Also please don't make any adjustments, just snap a picture and post up here. Making any adjustments can potentially influence your tune negatively and that won't be good!

 

I don't know enough to touch anything myself. It's john at Akuma and I know him and Nate spoke in detail about the problem and tried to fix it. And thanks for help, I just want it right and don't care who makes it that way.

 

Where you located in New Jersey, what city?

 

I split this thread from the 'results' thread.

seanr8368, there's been a lot of questions posed to you that you have sorta avoided...these are the things you gotta check (do it yourself or make your tuner show you what he's done)

-WGA pre-load
-log WGDC
-what other parts do you have (you listed them eventually)

When troubleshooting an issue like this, you gotta turn over every stone to find the problem and always assume that if it's going to get fixed YOU are the one that's going to fix YOUR problem...MAP helping is just good customer service.

So, get troubleshooting!

 

Thanks for the split Chris.

 

Thats only because im am new , and dont know the answer to alot of them. BUT I said before " MY tuner spoke with Nate at Map about this apparently in great length so i would like to think, the two of them disscused all these troubleshooting ideas."" Chris can you not confirm this with Nate? and i have also said if you have a problem with my tuner i will go else where. I just want it fixed.

 

IM in Neptune, NJ right near Belmar

 

-- I would verify that the readings on your boost gauge are actually whats going on. If you can get another gauge and hook it up in place of your current one and see what that one does.


-- Do a boost leak test.

I would say this is a good starting point in troubleshooting your issue, and Im only suggesting this now because I havent read anywhere on here where you have done this yet. If, by chance, your gauge is faulty, then you can diagnose it and save yourself a ton of headaches. G/L

 

Your going to be about an hour and 30 minutes away from where I'll be moving to. If this isn't resolved by Mid June, I'll take a weekend trip to the coast and stop by your place on the way and help you get it situated.

What software are you using to tune the car, stock ecu or do you have an Accessport?

Do you have any friends that are mechanics or work on their own car, in my opinion the pre-load needs to be checked 100% before taking anymore drastic steps. It's very simple, I can walk you through the process 100% if needed. Just snap me a picture of your turbo/manifold area and I will add steps to the picture, its very simple and should only take you a few minutes.

 

Cobb access port , and thanks again

 

What happen to Chris from Map? I am dealing with you guys. You tell me or tuner what to try or do next and I will. Isn't this the simplest way? Also waiting from email personal back from Nate at map to see what he wants me to try.

 

I also sent you one asking exactly what you want me to buy.

 

Plug it into your car, go through the options and datalog your boost, RPM, TPS and WGDC it should say Wastegate Duty % down at the bottom of the list. Just put check boxes next to them and then do a pull in 3rd gear on the highway. Plug it into your laptop and save the data file to your computer and email it to me.

This is very simple thing to achieve and will get things rolling with diagnosing this boost creep over the internet.

Please follow these step by step instructions and email the file to adam.brun7@gmail.com.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/AccessPORT...t/data-logging

 

Sean,

Adam and others have given you some great suggestions here, starting with checking preload could potentially resolve your issue with no additional purchase needed. Once you've tried that I would recommend the steps outlined in my PM that was quoted above.

 

The actuator originally was deemed 23PSI. We swapped that with the 18PSI Turbosmart which lessend the issue. The car was run with no(direct routing...no solenoid) boost controller and the WGDC(only one table is used with a 3 port) was set to zero. Both tests yield the same results. The car starts at 18PSI and creeps to 26+ towards redline. This phenomenon is present with or without the Cobb controlling boost.

There is minimal pre-load on the arm...as designed to stop the flapper from moving in non boosted situations. The Downpipe was on the shop car initially, and had no issues with back pressure, so that is not the cause(it is also massive at the opening and then filters into a 3").

We are working with Sean. We want to see this issues resolved for him as quickly and painlessly as possible. Hopefully, we can figure this out ASAP.

John