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Competition stage 3 un-sprung vs Exedy double HD

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Old May 17, 2012, 01:27 AM
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have fun, and good luck
Old May 17, 2012, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by AreSTG
i'm with you on the price, sounds amazing.

But are saying one material has issues with heat, another wears out fast, blah blah. I think that comp was the one that people said would wear out super fast, maybe another brand, and maybe the old version. i dunno.

If it's that price and lasts as long with no issies awesome. But if it wears out 3x's as fast and you don't do your own clutch installs, i bet labor on three rebuilds will easily cost more (and have downtime) than the exedy.
To clear up some of the confusion that seems to be surrounding the different kits.

5152-2100 - Stage 2 - rated for 450ftlbs - Carbon Kevlar Steel Back Organic
5152-2300 - Stage 3 - rated for 500ftlbs - Segmented Kevlar
5152-2600 - Stage 3 - rated for 525ftlbs - Segmented Ceramic

(As an aside, the 2300 is not a normally stocked kit and is only available by special request as we feel that 99.99% of people will be just fine with a 2600 in its place)

All three kits are designed for specific purposes as such they have their own set of unique characteristics.

2100
The 2100 kit is the lowest performance kit we offer for this application. It utilizes a heavy duty performance pressure plate. One differentiates this kit from the other upper level stages is that it uses a Carbon Kevlar Steel Back Organic disc. This is a similar disc to what would come in your car from the factory but has a couple slight upgrades to allow it mildly higher coefficient of friction while still keeping stock like drivability. The standard wool weave is replaced with a Carbon Kevlar braid as well as a slightly higher metal content in the organic substrate. This disc, while sensitive to oil saturation, is slightly more forgiving and generally won’t blow a part completely from a very minor contamination but you still need to make sure that all surfaces are clean before installation. This disc is sensitive to uneven harnesses on friction surfaces and will chatter unless you replace or resurface your flywheel before installation. Around 750 miles of break in are required before hard use in order to bed the disc in with the friction surfaces.

2300
The 2300 kit is put together utilizing the same pressure plate as the rest of our performance line up. It utilizes a segmented Kevlar disc that has a moderate power handling ability but where this disc shines is in its smooth operating and engagement feel. This might sound like the perfect clutch for a lot of people but these characteristics do come at a price. Unless the flywheel is machined perfect and all surfaces are cleaned thoroughly the clutch disc will be trash before you even get out of the driveway. Now if you have gotten far enough where everything is clean and as it should be, you have a very strict break in policy to follow. Roughly 1000 miles of very modest street driving without any high torque loads, the goal is to keep heat down to a minimum as the disc is very susceptible to glazing during this time. If you have made it this far you are probably ready to do some higher tq loads and more spirited driving and the clutch will be ready to take the load. However, you need to keep in mind the even though the clutch is broken in you should be very careful as to not over heat the clutch through slipping as this will glaze it over and the clutch will not be able to come back from this state.

2600
The 2600 uses the performance pressure plate as well but instead of the Kevlar facing it utilizes a segmented ceramic friction material. The power handling of this style disc is slightly more than the comparable Kevlar faced disc due to the increased coefficient of friction of ceramic. Other areas where this disc will shine is the fact that it is not susceptible to glazing in the same way as the Kevlar, it also is a lot less sensitive to breaking in and should be ready for full load after only a couple hundred miles. Some of the negatives of this disc are that it will make some additional noise compared to Kevlar, most notably in the morning when the clutch is cold. This can come in the form of chattering or very mild squeal when coming from a dead stop starting up. This disc is also sensitive to contamination; if oils or grease make their way into the facing during installation or use the discs will be compromised. This will show itself when the clutch is heated up to the upper temperature limits. First the material will start to crumble away from the disc itself and then, if the clutch temperature is high and the clutch is engaged the disc can actually become fused with the plate requiring a full tear down to clean the fused material off both the flywheel and pressure plate.

As you can see, choosing a clutch is a balancing act of figuring out not only which clutch will hold the power the best; if this were the case we would all be driving 4 puck un-sprung discs every day, but also which clutch will provide a suitable driving characteristics for your application.

Last edited by Dominic@CCI; May 17, 2012 at 10:24 AM.
Old May 17, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Dominic, good info. Give your break down on the HD street now if you will the evo community needs a good alternative to the very pricey or ACT lockout clutches everyone's been using for so long.

I don't mind chatter that's not a problem, just want it to hold the power and be able to take good launches. As for grease making it onto the disc, that's good info too. When I do my install I'll make note to keep that disc perfectly clean no matter which clutch I go with.

Last edited by PatricksEvilEvo; May 17, 2012 at 07:54 AM.
Old May 17, 2012, 08:08 AM
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Dominic's post really is making me lean towards staying with a full-face organic friction material such as the HD Street since I want something to remain as versatile and forgiving as the stock clutch disc. Would you mind giving an outline of the HD Street 2100 kit too?

Last edited by Kracka; May 17, 2012 at 08:17 AM.
Old May 17, 2012, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by PatricksEvilEvo
Dominic, good info. Give your break down on the HD street now if you will the evo community needs a good alternative to the very pricey or ACT lockout clutches everyone's been using for so long.

I don't mind chatter that's not a problem, just want it to hold the power and be able to take good launches. As for grease making it onto the disc, that's good info too. When I do my install I'll make note to keep that disc perfectly clean no matter which clutch I go with.
updated with the 2100 kit

Originally Posted by Kracka
Dominic's post really is making me lean towards staying with a full-face organic friction material such as the HD Street since I want something to remain as versatile and forgiving as the stock clutch disc. Would you mind giving an outline of the HD Street 2100 kit too?
If its your DD and it will hold your power, go for it!
Old May 17, 2012, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic@CCI
updated with the 2100 kit

If its your DD and it will hold your power, go for it!
Thanks, and it should! Evo X with 411/367 at the wheels...or about that, I always forget.
Old May 17, 2012, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Kracka
Thanks, and it should! Evo X with 411/367 at the wheels...or about that, I always forget.
For the Evo X
5153-2100
will be your part number.


Old May 17, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic@CCI
For the Evo X
5153-2100
will be your part number.


Thanks! I had one of the first prototype Stage 3 segmented Kevlar kits in my IX back when you first released them.
Old May 17, 2012, 01:28 PM
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Looks like I'm going with 2100 as well. Thanks for all the info!
Old May 17, 2012, 03:30 PM
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Sounds good i will also be going with the 2100 series. Although i have not had good luck with my old style cci stage 4 im willing to give them another try based on all the good feedback im hearing lately. It sucks that i have to replace my clutch in less than 6 months but hey **** happens lol.
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