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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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From: The Matrix
Burning Oil

I noticed my car burning oil its really excessive. It burned around 3qrts of oil at around 700 miles but, it only burns oil when in turbo. I noticed it leaves a stream of light grey charcoal smoke like a jet when I'm in boost and after boost it smokes until it burns off then it stops. It does not smoke at all in idle or when driving out of boost. I don't think its the rings if so it would smoke all the time even when idle so I'm thinking it's a valve seal or something. I had a leak down test and here are the numbers of the leak down test. Any ideas on what it could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

170 184 175 180


2.1L 4G64
AMS 2.1L Pistons
AMS 2.1L Drag Crank
AMS Specs Rods
AMS CNC Race Head
AMS Intake Manifold
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 10:00 PM
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[QUOTE=Maddball;10263352]I noticed my car burning oil its really excessive. It burned around 3qrts of oil at around 700 miles but, it only burns oil when in turbo. I noticed it leaves a stream of light grey charcoal smoke like a jet when I'm in boost and after boost it smokes until it burns off then it stops. It does not smoke at all in idle or when driving out of boost. I don't think its the rings if so it would smoke all the time even when idle so I'm thinking it's a valve seal or something. I had a leak down test and here are the numbers of the leak down test. Any ideas on what it could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


I had same problem on mine 1-2 qrts per 1000, maybe less, found to be blown valve seals, two of them on exhaust side..... if your turbo is good and u dont have any sever leaks around the engine, i would recommend to took seals next... let me know what you come up with
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 06:29 AM
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From: The Matrix
[QUOTE=Spirit evo 8 MR;10263548]
Originally Posted by Maddball
I noticed my car burning oil its really excessive. It burned around 3qrts of oil at around 700 miles but, it only burns oil when in turbo. I noticed it leaves a stream of light grey charcoal smoke like a jet when I'm in boost and after boost it smokes until it burns off then it stops. It does not smoke at all in idle or when driving out of boost. I don't think its the rings if so it would smoke all the time even when idle so I'm thinking it's a valve seal or something. I had a leak down test and here are the numbers of the leak down test. Any ideas on what it could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


I had same problem on mine 1-2 qrts per 1000, maybe less, found to be blown valve seals, two of them on exhaust side..... if your turbo is good and u dont have any sever leaks around the engine, i would recommend to took seals next... let me know what you come up with
Thanks. I definitely will let you know what I find.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 12:58 PM
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I agree with checking the seals.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by benip
I agree with checking the seals.
Thanks. I will definitely check the seals on it. Everything barely has 3000 miles on it. I think I'm going to build a 2.4L Long Rod. I need more torque and quicker spool up. I may keep the short block as a spare or sell it and that's when I will get the seals checked.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 08:49 AM
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From: cow tippin
I'm having similar issues with my 2.4LR motor with barley 3k miles. i still have a little oil leak but i'm not sure if that can account for the amount of oil the engine is consuming. Planning to get a compression/leakdown test done soon.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 01:36 PM
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From: The Matrix
Originally Posted by xxthayxx
I'm having similar issues with my 2.4LR motor with barley 3k miles. i still have a little oil leak but i'm not sure if that can account for the amount of oil the engine is consuming. Planning to get a compression/leakdown test done soon.
Let me know your findings when complete. By the way how do like the 2.4L LR?
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:18 PM
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From: cow tippin
Originally Posted by Maddball
Let me know your findings when complete. By the way how do like the 2.4L LR?
It's different, feels like an NA car with a turbo(FP 71HTA). Daily driving doesn't feel as sluggish compared to the stock 2.0. Once i get this pain in the *** oil leak fixed along with the other issues i may finally be able to enjoy the car.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 05:10 AM
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From: The Matrix
Originally Posted by xxthayxx
It's different, feels like an NA car with a turbo(FP 71HTA). Daily driving doesn't feel as sluggish compared to the stock 2.0. Once i get this pain in the *** oil leak fixed along with the other issues i may finally be able to enjoy the car.
Yes, I agree with you on that. I have an AEM that I will be removing and going back to the stock ECU but mine is not a DD. Also checking the oil constantly is a royal pain, and as you said you really don't get to enjoy the car you have to ride around with a few quarts of synthetic oil in the car and that can get really expensive.

Last edited by Maddball; Jul 11, 2012 at 05:13 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 06:21 AM
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sorry to revive this thread but seems im having similar issues as you OP. did you ever find out what was causing the oil disappearing ?
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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Did you properly break in the motor?
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 05:58 AM
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From: The Matrix
Originally Posted by elim0
sorry to revive this thread but seems im having similar issues as you OP. did you ever find out what was causing the oil disappearing ?
Yes, after taking it to Greg of UCS Performance and doing a compression test one cylinder was low on compression and another was slightly low. I went back a few weeks later and Jason took off the head and we noticed that it was wet around the head gasket as well as the valve guides were wet. When checking the cylinder walls there was some pretty noticeable indentations in the cylinder walls that you could feel. Not sure what it was from honing/boring. So I ask UCS Performance to build me a new motor fresh block and send the head out to get new valve guides and seals etc., etc.

The motor should be in the car at the end of the week for break-in hopefully, and I will keep you posted.
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 07:14 AM
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From: cow tippin
Originally Posted by Maddball
Yes, after taking it to Greg of UCS Performance and doing a compression test one cylinder was low on compression and another was slightly low. I went back a few weeks later and Jason took off the head and we noticed that it was wet around the head gasket as well as the valve guides were wet. When checking the cylinder walls there was some pretty noticeable indentations in the cylinder walls that you could feel. Not sure what it was from honing/boring. So I ask UCS Performance to build me a new motor fresh block and send the head out to get new valve guides and seals etc., etc.

The motor should be in the car at the end of the week for break-in hopefully, and I will keep you posted.
Sucks to hear about your motor. Hopefully you'll have better luck with the new one. My motor still burns oil, its just a little over 5k miles now and i still have to fill it quite often. No smoke at idle or wot that i can tell, but my dipstick keeps poping out during wot. Compression test was 180 across all 4. my 2.4LR shortblock was purchased off a member on here and everything was installed/broken in/tune by reputable shop.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 05:50 AM
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damn.. my compression was between the 150-160s a few months ago.. im hoping mine ends up being a simple fix :S .... strapped for cash atm lol
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 10:54 AM
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From: The Matrix
Originally Posted by xxthayxx
Sucks to hear about your motor. Hopefully you'll have better luck with the new one. My motor still burns oil, its just a little over 5k miles now and i still have to fill it quite often. No smoke at idle or wot that i can tell, but my dipstick keeps poping out during wot. Compression test was 180 across all 4. my 2.4LR shortblock was purchased off a member on here and everything was installed/broken in/tune by reputable shop.
Yeah my compression was 170 184 174 180 with in 10%.

I had the same problem with my dipstick with the old motor. What I did was placed a little screw halfway into the plastic part of the dipstick. I placed a hose clamp on the dipstick insert and tightened it and stretched the spring from the hose clamp up to the dipstick screw and it stopped it from popping out.

Last edited by Maddball; Feb 2, 2017 at 09:57 AM.
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