ACD Pump gurus. Not your basic question. I need help
ACD Pump gurus. Not your basic question. I need help
Guys, I diagnosed the ACD a few days ago for the notorious 3 lights.
1: I turned on the ignition key and stepped on the gas. Motor did not move.
2: So it took the pump off and opened the thing and see if there's corrosion built up inside the pump but the pump is clean. Since it's already opened, I just went ahead and cleaned the O-rings and greased up some of the things that need to be lubed.
3: I took the pump to a repair shop that works on solenoids for alternators and such. They inspected the pump and it's wires and they said there's nothing wrong with the pump and the pump is running fine.
So now I'm stuck. I had the dealership bleed the pump a few months ago and they said that the pump is not turning over. This started happening after the Tuning/Dyno day here in Vegas. My friend then checked if it has something to do with the software that the tuner did but not didn't see anything. He then changed the ECU map back to stock and maybe we can crank the ACD pump but no luck.
Diagnos, bleeding, ECU check and still the lights are still up. What do you guys think is wrong? I'm here in Vegas and its been around 100-113 average here lately. I don't know if that info would help.
1: I turned on the ignition key and stepped on the gas. Motor did not move.
2: So it took the pump off and opened the thing and see if there's corrosion built up inside the pump but the pump is clean. Since it's already opened, I just went ahead and cleaned the O-rings and greased up some of the things that need to be lubed.
3: I took the pump to a repair shop that works on solenoids for alternators and such. They inspected the pump and it's wires and they said there's nothing wrong with the pump and the pump is running fine.
So now I'm stuck. I had the dealership bleed the pump a few months ago and they said that the pump is not turning over. This started happening after the Tuning/Dyno day here in Vegas. My friend then checked if it has something to do with the software that the tuner did but not didn't see anything. He then changed the ECU map back to stock and maybe we can crank the ACD pump but no luck.
Diagnos, bleeding, ECU check and still the lights are still up. What do you guys think is wrong? I'm here in Vegas and its been around 100-113 average here lately. I don't know if that info would help.
Did you jump the pins in the OBD connector with a paper clip and count how many times the lights blink? If not, you need to do that see what the codes are. I forget what pins actually get jumped but there is info on here about the process. Just google it up
Guys, I diagnosed the ACD a few days ago for the notorious 3 lights.
1: I turned on the ignition key and stepped on the gas. Motor did not move.
2: So it took the pump off and opened the thing and see if there's corrosion built up inside the pump but the pump is clean. Since it's already opened, I just went ahead and cleaned the O-rings and greased up some of the things that need to be lubed.
3: I took the pump to a repair shop that works on solenoids for alternators and such. They inspected the pump and it's wires and they said there's nothing wrong with the pump and the pump is running fine.
So now I'm stuck. I had the dealership bleed the pump a few months ago and they said that the pump is not turning over. This started happening after the Tuning/Dyno day here in Vegas. My friend then checked if it has something to do with the software that the tuner did but not didn't see anything. He then changed the ECU map back to stock and maybe we can crank the ACD pump but no luck.
Diagnos, bleeding, ECU check and still the lights are still up. What do you guys think is wrong? I'm here in Vegas and its been around 100-113 average here lately. I don't know if that info would help.
1: I turned on the ignition key and stepped on the gas. Motor did not move.
2: So it took the pump off and opened the thing and see if there's corrosion built up inside the pump but the pump is clean. Since it's already opened, I just went ahead and cleaned the O-rings and greased up some of the things that need to be lubed.
3: I took the pump to a repair shop that works on solenoids for alternators and such. They inspected the pump and it's wires and they said there's nothing wrong with the pump and the pump is running fine.
So now I'm stuck. I had the dealership bleed the pump a few months ago and they said that the pump is not turning over. This started happening after the Tuning/Dyno day here in Vegas. My friend then checked if it has something to do with the software that the tuner did but not didn't see anything. He then changed the ECU map back to stock and maybe we can crank the ACD pump but no luck.
Diagnos, bleeding, ECU check and still the lights are still up. What do you guys think is wrong? I'm here in Vegas and its been around 100-113 average here lately. I don't know if that info would help.
2. there is a relay that turns on the pump, it is right behind the engine... check it..
3. put a voltmeter on the pump connector, do the accelerator test and see if it gets any voltage..
4. do you get 3 lights on right away, or after a minute or so of driving... A broken pressure sensor will give you 3 lights right away...
1. did you check the fuses in the engine bay... pump fuses should be on the positive battery terminal
2. there is a relay that turns on the pump, it is right behind the engine... check it..
3. put a voltmeter on the pump connector, do the accelerator test and see if it gets any voltage..
4. do you get 3 lights on right away, or after a minute or so of driving... A broken pressure sensor will give you 3 lights right away...
2. there is a relay that turns on the pump, it is right behind the engine... check it..
3. put a voltmeter on the pump connector, do the accelerator test and see if it gets any voltage..
4. do you get 3 lights on right away, or after a minute or so of driving... A broken pressure sensor will give you 3 lights right away...
Can you show me which fuse is for the ACD pump on the fuse box? I never thought of that.
Can you show the relay behind the engine bay too? Sorry I'm not very mechanically inclined i only know some basic stuff.
Also when I drive, it takes a bout 30 seconds or so before the lights come out. that means its not the sensor, right?
yes, it doesn't sound like a sensor..
ACD pump fuses are not in the fusebox but right on the positive battery connector... you will see two fuses in the connector itself...
as for the relay...
ACD pump fuses are not in the fusebox but right on the positive battery connector... you will see two fuses in the connector itself...
as for the relay...
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Update
Here's an update guys.
I just came from the dealership and they pulled the code 82 "Loss of Pressure" and 45 "Loss of Voltage."
Now I know that the loss of pressure code is on because I pulled the pump out to inspect it for corrosion and solenoid check but everything is fine on the pump unit.
I talked to the mechanic when he diagnosed the car and he said that he inspected the fuse and the relay and both are working fine.
Does anyone else had this issue before? Any input where or what is the culprit maybe?
I just came from the dealership and they pulled the code 82 "Loss of Pressure" and 45 "Loss of Voltage."
Now I know that the loss of pressure code is on because I pulled the pump out to inspect it for corrosion and solenoid check but everything is fine on the pump unit.
I talked to the mechanic when he diagnosed the car and he said that he inspected the fuse and the relay and both are working fine.
Does anyone else had this issue before? Any input where or what is the culprit maybe?
Apparently not. The tech said that he can plug an external power source to the pump and the pump will work ok. So the problem would be between the pump and the battery.
I've been searching around for a wire diagram that show the image of wires of the pump from the battery, where it splits to the relay and the dash, to the pump. But so far I haven't got any luck.
The dealership wants to charge me more if they want to go further diagnose the car other than pulling the codes and do visual inspection on the easy accessible areas which is BS coz that's like doing half diagnose.
He pulled code 45 and 82. 82 was up coz I know that there are air pockets in the line when I put the pump back in the car so its still need to be bled.
here's the place where I found the description of the code 45 that the tech told me " Loss of voltage"
http://www.evoscan.com/technical-veh...cd-ayc-sayc-at
I've been searching around for a wire diagram that show the image of wires of the pump from the battery, where it splits to the relay and the dash, to the pump. But so far I haven't got any luck.
The dealership wants to charge me more if they want to go further diagnose the car other than pulling the codes and do visual inspection on the easy accessible areas which is BS coz that's like doing half diagnose.
He pulled code 45 and 82. 82 was up coz I know that there are air pockets in the line when I put the pump back in the car so its still need to be bled.
here's the place where I found the description of the code 45 that the tech told me " Loss of voltage"
http://www.evoscan.com/technical-veh...cd-ayc-sayc-at
Apparently not. The tech said that he can plug an external power source to the pump and the pump will work ok. So the problem would be between the pump and the battery.
I've been searching around for a wire diagram that show the image of wires of the pump from the battery, where it splits to the relay and the dash, to the pump. But so far I haven't got any luck.
The dealership wants to charge me more if they want to go further diagnose the car other than pulling the codes and do visual inspection on the easy accessible areas which is BS coz that's like doing half diagnose.
He pulled code 45 and 82. 82 was up coz I know that there are air pockets in the line when I put the pump back in the car so its still need to be bled.
here's the place where I found the description of the code 45 that the tech told me " Loss of voltage"
http://www.evoscan.com/technical-veh...cd-ayc-sayc-at
I've been searching around for a wire diagram that show the image of wires of the pump from the battery, where it splits to the relay and the dash, to the pump. But so far I haven't got any luck.
The dealership wants to charge me more if they want to go further diagnose the car other than pulling the codes and do visual inspection on the easy accessible areas which is BS coz that's like doing half diagnose.
He pulled code 45 and 82. 82 was up coz I know that there are air pockets in the line when I put the pump back in the car so its still need to be bled.
here's the place where I found the description of the code 45 that the tech told me " Loss of voltage"
http://www.evoscan.com/technical-veh...cd-ayc-sayc-at
check the connectors in the kick panels in the passenger and driver foot well for corrosion... you might have a broken signal for the pressure sensor..

I'm about to give up on this thing, but I don't want to dish out a chunk of cash in the dealer
If enough air were present in the system, it may not be able to reach the required pressure to meet the pressure switch requirement?
And this is the reason why the pump is not turning on?
What do you think? Because when the lights were on, and I stepped on the gas the pump was not activating. Then after putting the pump back in after checking, and stepped on the gas, the pump activated for a few seconds. The second time we stepped on the gas it didn't activate again. Don't you think that when I pulled the pump out it reset the ECU and when it activated, it saw the error and stop sending signal to the pump?






