I have a 2.4/FP Black build with an original QM (not 8 leg) clutch. I purchased this used, where the original owner claimed it had less than 2k miles. When I installed the clutch, it seems to have plenty of life and looked as if it was in good shape. I did not measure it. Since then, I have put on not even 2k miles of daily driving. A handful of launches, and not pushing any more than 400whp. I'm still waiting to be tuned, and run more than 20psi.

Today, I punched it in 4th and experienced some awful engage/disengage thumping and slippage. My passenger smelled some clutch burn-age as well.

I'd like to believe my clutch does not need a rebuild after ~4-5k miles, but that is what I wanted to bring up in this thread. I also have noticed a couple other things:

• When downshifting, and slowly releasing the clutch, it feels as if I have 2 distinct engagement points. In the last few hundred miles it has become more noticeable.
• The petal engagement point is near the very top of the pedal. There is a small amount of play on the top, so I think it is completely engaged but it is difficult to tell.
• Very recently I've noticed some high rpm gear lockouts, which I have never experienced before.

Could this be a HTB shim/pedal adjustment issue, another issue, or just time to replace/rebuild?


Thoughts on a rebuild kit for this older 6-leg, or should I just go for a new 8-leg for an extra 1k or so?

 

Sounds worn. The disks can look like they have plenty of life left and it will start slipping. The two hubs of the two frictions disks will start to touch(and you lose clamping force on the friction material and it slips) long before you wear all of that stuff off of the disks.

Personally, I'd rebuild it, but, get the 'gear-drive' disks for it. And adjust it to engage a bit farther down instead of all the way at the top of the pedal travel.

You can try to adjust the pedal some so the engagement point is a bit farther down and see if it helps for now.

 

I'll be picking up the gear drive disks from TMZ. Assuming nothing else is damaged, I'll just plan on swapping in the new disks plus resurfacing the flywheel.

 

Pretty sure most people just put new Steel floaters in it.

 

mistake number one.

kind of hard to do a proper rebuild on most of these high hp clutches.the floaters and flywheels get so many,so big hot spots that it basically is useless.most of the used twins and triple i have seen in the for sale section have been garbage.you can't re-use floaters and flywheels if there are completely covered in hot spots.the re-surfacing just won't work.

if it was me and i was trying to hold 400whp,i would buy a new clutch.you don't really need the QM at that level.a good single disc clutch would work.better than spending all that money for a rebuild and the clutch starts off making loud noises,hanging and locking you out.

just my opinion and experience,i'm not saying that you can't rebuild a twin disc clutch that sw lots of 500whp launches.i'm just saying i wouldn't want that particular clutch in my car.

 

Just rebuild it.

New Discs
New Floater
New Pressure Plate
Surface Flywheel, maintain correct step height

When I did the full rebuild it was about 600 bucks or so, with the resurface. The new style gear drive should be much better but will cost more money.

Twin plates should only be worth a few hundred bucks used becuase you have no idea what you are getting your self into and need to do a full rebuild.

 

You can pull the clutch and send it to Quatermaster and they will check it out for free. That's what I plan on doing once I get mine out. I'm planning on a rebuild and upgrading to the gear drive.

 

I'm buying a new 8-leg QM kit, and worrying about the rebuild my original QM later.