The other day I noticed my oil pressure light would come on if my car almost died (from my cams but the car would fix itself and go back up). Then I noticed that my stock MR oil gauge wasnt reading anything anymore. At first I played with the wires in the back because thats happened before and as soon as I touch the wires the gauge would come on and be normal.

Anyways I start the car (warm start up) and notice my gauge bouncing... then a few mins later see that its reading 0 again. So I called my buddy & decided to take it to him and noticed rattling around 2800-3000 rpm. If I release the gas the rattle/vibration isn't noticeable to me. Once I hit the gas again its unnoticed until around those rpms and its not constant...just in that area.

We pull the head off & don't really see anything wrong with the lifters or anything so next thing we turn the motor by hand and at the bottom it gets really hard to turn.... then starts turning fine again.

He told me hes pretty sure I spun a rod or bearing and thats why there is so much friction. I drive the car home & park it. Haven't driven it since and yesterday I start it up to move it & there is no noise at all. Went down the street to power wash the car and still no noise. Once the car was warmed up the noise and vibration came back....

anyone know what it is? if I spun a rod/bearing shouldnt the noise constantly be there & noticeable loud all of the time?

 

If you spun a rod bearing, it would be a ticking noise which is progress to a clunking if still driven. The best way, IMO, to check for a spun bearing is to dump your oil, drop your oil pan, and wiggle each rod at the base to see if it has excessive play, meaning the bearing is going bad or is bad. as far as vibration noises, it could be as simple as the trans inspection dust shield that connects to the trans and block could have broke the tabs where it meets the block and is vibrating or something more in depth is failing. As far as turning the motor, if your sparkplugs were still in the block, it will cause it to turn harder in certain spots because the pistons are building compression during the turn and when that compression is pushed thru the chambers, then it will turn freely again, so turning hard in certain areas of rotation is normal.

 

Another way to check is to pull off the plug wire/coil one at a time until knock is gone. When u find it goes away that cyl is the culprit.