the passenger seal? You mean where the transfer case meets the trans? That's the only seal I personally did not replace was that seal on the transfer case. Did you overfill the trans with fluid? Yeah the one accessory I replaced was the alternator cause I knew if something went wrong with it I'd be pissed. I have the EMS though so I think it could be the ECU but if not it looks like i'll be pulling the accessories belt back off to replace the damn crank sensor (should have just replaced that also)

I feel your pain though. Mine needs to get home as it's my daily

 

Yeah pulled the transfer case n the bearing on the lsd had let go which jus wreaked havoc inside the tcase, so I'm just flying home n gonna save up to have the tcase rebuilt by jacks or shep. But I feel ya. Easiest way to check would b to put ur stock ecu back in n check if it starts awesome its ems if not its the cas n good luck doesn't really take all that long to do tho once Uve done it a few times haha I had it down to about 40 min off n on haha

 

I've got the same problem with the cas code after rebuilding my motor. Question: Not sure about the state of my battery so I used a booster pack to try and start it... If the batteries bad and you use a booster pack it should run, right? Or is that not the way it works? Thanks again folks for sharing...

 

What's the booster pack rated at amps wise, I mean I can't c y it shouldn't have enough amps to start it properly but if I've learned one thing about these cars lately its never assume things haha. I would check your amperage rating and I would think anything over 550 amps should be enough cuz my battery only cranks a little over 600 and its good. But if your good amperage wise then I would go ahead and take a look at the cas. You can try and test the wires for proper voltage and continuity, but mine wires were all good and still had a bad cas.

 

Ok so this seems to be an extremely common problem with these cars and everytime someone asks me for a fix for it I always tell them to check voltages on the wires but cant remember the wire colors 100%. So here it goes, according to alldata:

Crankshaft position sensor (aka crank angle sensor):
Black wire: Check for continuity between this wire and the negative terminal on the battery, use an ohm meter (cheap ones work too, mine was only 20 bucks from autozone, wont pick up voltage fluctuations too well if at all but works all the same) the ohm resistance should be low if at all, I just use the audio function that makes noise if the power is carried between the two points.

Brown-Green wire: This is the brown wire with a green stripe. It should show a 5v signal from the ecu, only definitive way to check it is using and osciloscope (or however you spell it) and monitor the pulse widths, like i said this is the only definitive way because when mine went bad the cas was getting a constant 5v signal so the ecu never knew when to fire cuz the circuit never opened.

Red-yellow wire: This one is a Red wire with a yellow stripe I believe. It should show a constant voltage of 12v from the battery and because I forgot to mention till now just to cover all my bases these voltages should all be checked with the key in the on position

Camshaft sensors:
Intake camshaft position sensor (for the evo IX):
Black wire: Again check your continuity between this wire and your neg battery terminal with an ohm meter

Red-yellow wire: This one should be getting a constant 12v with your key in the on position.

Blue-red wire: This is a blue wire with a red stripe. This should get a 5v signal from your ecu. If not verify it is plugged into the connector on the ecu, it should be port 53 of connector 121

Exhaust camshaft position sensor:

Oddly enough the wires are the same color and should show the same properties as above with the exception of the Blue-Red wire going to port 50 of connector 121 on the ecu

Coil packs:
Coil pack for cylinder 1&4: (the connector is on the drivers side of the spark plug cover)
Black wire: Yet again check the continuity between battery neg terminal and this wire.

Black-Yellow wire: Mine looks more like a black wire with a white stripe but it may be yellow in yours according to alldata. This should get a 5v signal from the ecu, if not check to make sure its in the ecu, should be port 11 of connector 121

Red-white wire: Should be a white wire with a red stripe and should have a 12v signal.

Coil pack for cylinder 2&3: (connector is on passengers side of the spark plug cover)

Black wire: At this point you know the drill

Black-Green wire? I think, really only one left so its not hard to find the one I'm talking about: This is the 5v signal wire for this coil pack. It is port 12 of connector 121

White-Red wire: Yet again white wire with red stripe. Should get constant 12v from battery.

In my experience if all check out but you do not have a 5v signal at either of your coils then your cas is most likely the culprit. Of course make this easy on yourself and always check any related fuses first.

 

Jason, thanks for posting this!!! Will check soon!

 

Yeah no problem haha.

 

Finally got into the crank sensor. My idiot self installed it backwards. The car sparked but wouldn't start. I think due to the upgrade from 700 CC injectors to 1200s w/out a tune so I'm gonna wait till the tune to put the 1200s back in.

Do you have any reasoning why you think the Bearing on the LSD let go?

 

No more than it was a junkyard swap that was put in the car before I bought it, the originals were stolen. Other than that I got no explanation, cuz the tc wasn't't underfilled, the exact opposite cuz the trans was leaking into the tc. But don't beat urself up too much pretty easy to swap it around haha n yeah I wouldn't crank it too much upgrading injectors that far would worry me theyd flood it but not so sure. Either way good luck haha.

 

I think they did flood the cylinders a bit so I'm gonna make sure it's evaporated and I'll changed the oil next weekend just incase they got passed the rings, and try to start again.

 

Yeah def n think u mite wanna take a look at the spark plugs too make sure they're still good.

 

Soon, I did the voltage checks on the crank, cam sensors and both coil pack connectors. Everything looked good with the exception of no 5 volts on either of the coil packs, so the chances are good it's the cas?

 

Yeah least in my experience, jus take a look at it, make sure its not backwards n check to make sure its clean, mine stopped working cuz it had a bunch of metal dust built up on the magnet holding it open. As long as its not backwards your probably just better off replacing it just to cover your bases.

 

Thanks for the help guys, it seems I installed the damned thing backwards... She started right up... Only to find a nasty oil leak coming from behind the lower timing cover (around the crank) . Any ideas fella apart from the t-belt tensioner bolts??

 

8 or 9 engine, is it newhere else, n u sure its engine oil. Post some pics might help figure it out cuz mine leaked bad but not sure if Uve got the parts that were leaking.