need help asap no spark no fuel from injectors no start
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: fairbanks, ak
ok that eliminates the mivec line, took me forever to get that to stop leaking, did you use an oem gasket between the block and the oil filter housing. I used a gasket material there but it was leaking bad till I replaced that with oem. check all of your seals in that area and what not but if its a real bad leak I don't think it would be leaking past the bolt that fast. make sure it is the engine oil too, mine had a ton of leaks when I put the new engine in, sealed off the ones on the engine n thought i was good, then I drove it a lil and still had oil drip. turns out it was a seal in my xfer case slinging oil cuz the seal to the tranny was leaking too much in. either way smell the oil, if it smells real sweet then its gear oil n leak is there, no smell or burnt smell is engine n leak is there.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: fairbanks, ak
o and when you put on your valve cover did you use rtv in the corners of the gasket. I know it's far away but when things are revolving as fast as the timing belt stuff is it tends to fling it. Not saying any of these things are it for sure. Just trying to give suggestions where to start looking since I can't really look at the car n tell you for sure.
o and when you put on your valve cover did you use rtv in the corners of the gasket. I know it's far away but when things are revolving as fast as the timing belt stuff is it tends to fling it. Not saying any of these things are it for sure. Just trying to give suggestions where to start looking since I can't really look at the car n tell you for sure.
Yup did that. Turned out my brand new no mile hydraulic t-belt tensioner decided to **** the bed. F@#K!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: fairbanks, ak
That sux a big one. I've been looking at the solid tensioner they sell for our engines. Its alot more simple than the hydrolic in that its just a bolt that your screw in or out to hold the tension which also gives you more accurate and fine adustments in theory. You might look into that one since you have to replace it anyways, and if you do give it a try let me know how it goes. It's like I said in theory its a great part, but there is a huge difference between theory and real world.
That's funny your crank sensor was backwards. I literally had the same post a few posts up
Last edited by luvboost; Oct 8, 2012 at 03:41 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: fairbanks, ak
Wow that's awesome, sounds like my engine, has 300 mi on it from break in n its already leaking coolant from the trans side, not much but when u drop 8 grand on an engine u kinda expect it to work.... N don't expect to put half of it together urself. But on the brightside at least you kno wut it is now n is make them fix it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: fairbanks, ak
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: fairbanks, ak
Hahahahahahaha u kno if you lived up here we might actually be really good friends cuz that's exactly how I feel when I put my stuff back together haha. But yeah that n y pay sumone to do sumthing I can do myself, n its always good to learn more bout the car u drive.
yeah, I mean I didn't do it alone though cause I don't have that intricate knowledge you need to do things like remembering where every little thing goes, but I did learn a ton about it lol.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: fairbanks, ak
took me maybe 2-3 hrs and yes the timing belt has to come off because the wire and connector route behind it. you couple get around that by cutting the wiring harness in half then splicing it back together once its in place, but I personally don't like to cut into wires if I dont have to.






