Ok I just got my new engine in and finally got all the little problems fixed went to start the engine to build my oil pressure and nothing. It turns over just fine, but has no spark or fuel from the injectors. Ive checked all of the sensors, narrowed the spark down to the input signal to the coils. I've got none for whatever reason but my crank and cam sensors are giving off correct voltage on all wires. cant hear the pump prime in on but it builds pressure in the start position, and I have no immobilizer light on. I'm out of ideas and banging my head against a wall. And if anyone is willing to help I'm in bonney lake, wa. Just trying to get this thing started so I can go home. Any help is appreciated.

 

i think the crank sensor has to be tested via an ocillioscope or however you spell that.it could still be a CAS problem

 

Yeah that would tell me for sure, but like most people I unfortunately dont have one in my garage to use. So I just put the multimeter one it, the signal wire gets the 5v signal and constant 12v to the power wire, ground has continuity, I even tried to reroute the ground as one of the other threads with this problem suggested was the cure. it was not. I pulled the codes, only ones im getting is the p0630 vin mismatch and p0335 crankshaft position sensor malfunction. But I am not getting the p0340 that generally accompanies this code. I cleared codes and those two immediately came back. I am getting fuel through the injectors, just no spark.and if its related I am also not registering anything on my tach. I have gone through cleaned all of the grounds, also have the hyperground kit on, still no spark. both camshaft sensors are working and aligned, timing is on from the builders so far as I can tell (all marks line up) and I dont have any obviously destroyed connector. They are all tightly attached and I am not showing the immobilizer light on. I've run out of ideas and I'm just banging my head against a wall.

 

well ordered an new cas today should be here monday gonna throw that on and see if it helps anything. But if it help the timing mark on my oil pump gear is not aligned, but I dont really see how that affects anything, i mean that should just be a gear and should work no matter where its at, but just for fun when I have the timing belt off to replace the cas I'm gonna align that. Also have to bleed the oil pressure sensor feed line up at the gauge and just see if I'm not registering pressure because the line has air in it.

 

really sounds like the immobilizer, especially if you are getting a code for vin mismatch.

 

That's what I thought too but the immobilizer indicator isn't coming on. If the cas doesn't fix it only other thing I can think of is factory reflash of the ecu.

 

Key On- Do you have power at the fuel pump relay for the pump and also for the sake of the time just check that ignition fuse under the dash i beleive its #1 i had that blow on an aftermarket ignition system once. BEST OF LUCK

 

Yup, pump is priming n getting fuel to cylinders, just a spark issue. N checked that fuse its intact, n swapped for a known good one still no workie haha

 

Ok update cuz I hate when I'm looking for an answer, find a thread with my exact symptoms but no answer. I overthought it n all it ended up being was the crank sensor, replaced that n she fired up like a champ. Now I jus need to fix the oil stream from my mivec line, should b ez jus need new crush washers, jus a qt n a half of oil ever 15 miles is unexceptable haha.

 

Thanks for posting your solution. I'm having the exact same issue-- put in my rebuilt engine- no spark, fuel or tach... I knew I shoulda put in a new cas when putting her back together... It's just weird that it was working fine before I pulled the motor...

 

Yeah I don't know what exactly happend with yours before you replaced it but my oil pump pulley grenaded destroying the engine so I can only guess some of it hit the cas. N yeah at least your not alone I had mine in when I replaced mine. Lil advice get the timing tool kit off ebay the little tool with the 2 pronged is awesome n makes the timing belt job so much easier. I put mine on and took it off 3 times in bout an hr with my grandfather in law badgering me the whole time haha.

 

ha i had a similar incident where i came back home from work got off the freeway stopped at the light on green i went and the car stalled and shutoff like a newbie first time driving stick... car cranks but doesnt turn over and im like wtf... tot it was a battery issue or loose spark plug/coil woot woot... couldnt figure out so had to tow it home... me and my cuzzin mechanic tore everything apart... looked for spark no spark, no power to fuel pump, but good compression... we tested all the relays and had power to it... ran a wire to pump from battery tried to start it still doesnt work.... i was clueless we really tot the ecu(ecm) was bad.... last thing we did was opened up the oil cap crank the motor and BAM cams doesnt turn.... tore down the cam covers and found out some teeths on the timing belt were gone.... ha hopefully this will solve the prob but the thing is y no power to pump? hmmm c how it goes

 

It's because the ecm uses the trigger discs on the end of the cam to determine when to fire the spark to each cylinder so if those aren't moving it doesn't kno when to spark so it won't at all. My advice for what its worth is to check the crank angle sensor while u got the timing belt off. Believe me if u put that on jus to have to take it off again jus to put a new cas on ull be very annoyed with urself, I know from experience (put it on n took it off a bunch). Good luck

 

good advise. I'm having the same issue with my car. I hope it's not the cas cause my whole motor is together with accessories and in the car. I really don't wanna have to remove all that again. Weird thing was when I took it off, it was all gunked up with oil build up and was working fine. Just built the motor for compression so nothing grenaded and I cleaned the CAS so I hope it's still ok.

?? Your coils could should have still been getting a 12volts from the battery right?

 

Yes they should get a constant 12v from the battery, can't remember the exact color of the wire, but if I remember right the black should ground your system so check the continuity between the black and the neg terminal on the battery, and the white wire should get a 5v signal from your ecm, so the one that is left should have 12v with the key on. Sorry if I'm a little wrong really tired cuz my car has moved on to bigger an badder problems haha. The b+ terminal wire on my alt crapped out so that stopped charging (btw the car will run about 25 miles on just the battery, even with a 625 cca battery haha, guess how I figured that out) and now my tranny is leaking all of its fluid out into the transfer case n then out the passenger seal. Been a real blast lately trying to get this car roadworthy so I can drive 2200 miles home.