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need help asap no spark no fuel from injectors no start

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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 10:57 PM
  #46  
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She's alive!!! And not leaking!!!!!
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 11:01 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by scrivs
She's alive!!! And not leaking!!!!!
Awesome, now if only I could say the same haha
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 04:53 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by jason42003
took me maybe 2-3 hrs and yes the timing belt has to come off because the wire and connector route behind it. you couple get around that by cutting the wiring harness in half then splicing it back together once its in place, but I personally don't like to cut into wires if I dont have to.
I managed to squeeze mine in when the motor was out
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:49 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by luvboost
I managed to squeeze mine in when the motor was out
Nice
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 01:28 PM
  #50  
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I haven't read the entire 4 pages, maybe i should have before mentioning this. Try disabling your immobilizer with ecu flash.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #51  
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just saw the last reply, but do not have a ecu flash. I replace the CAS and still no spark and no fuel in cylinder. What next do I need to get a ecu flash and where do I get it?
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 10:02 AM
  #52  
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Just a thought I have not done a compression test yet...If my timing belt is off a couple of tooth will it cause it not to spark? I will check it tonight
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bryonboals
Just a thought I have not done a compression test yet...If my timing belt is off a couple of tooth will it cause it not to spark? I will check it tonight
Yes def
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 05:11 PM
  #54  
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I did a compression check and I am running 10:1, so 1 is 170, 2 is 200, 3 is 200 we did not check 4th. does that sound right on fresh rebuilt motor. I rebuilt a kia motor and the compression was the same in all cylinder.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 05:22 PM
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that's pretty decent compression. Mine was like 165 all the way on 9.5:1. If I recall the only 2 things that control spark and fuel are the ecu and crank sensor.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 06:00 PM
  #56  
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My question isn't if the compression is decent, but 30 psi differance on a fresh rebuild??
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 06:39 PM
  #57  
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How many miles have you put on the engine, could b that the rings in that cylinder aren't seated as well as the others yet. I think if I'm not mistaken 30 psi is right on the edge of an acceptable difference. If you have less than 1500 miles on it I would keep driving it till you do unless you notice a knock or missfiring. Once you hit 1500 mi then check compression again n see if its gotten worse or better.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 07:17 PM
  #58  
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I did a compression check and I am running 10:1, so 1 is 170, 2 is 200, 3 is 200 we did not check 4th. does that sound right on fresh rebuilt motor. I rebuilt a kia motor and the compression was the same in all cylinder.

200 psi seems a little high considering standard value is around 160.i also think 30psi is too far off the rest.i was thinking 15psi variance would be the edge of acceptable variance.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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I talk to my machinist he said wrong timing can increase compression. I will not get my car back till mid of next week. I really believe the timing is off no matter what my mechanic said. I am glad that I am not the only one that thinks its wrong to have a 30 psi variance.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 08:05 PM
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I am running high compression pistons. My theory is, if I start out with high compression I will not need to spend a ton of money on big turbo


Originally Posted by masonh
200 psi seems a little high considering standard value is around 160.i also think 30psi is too far off the rest.i was thinking 15psi variance would be the edge of acceptable variance.
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