Hey everyone,

I have noticed recently since the weather has gotten cold in the mornings that my clutch pedal feels really mushy when first driving the car. After about 10 minutes or so of constant driving it goes back to it's normal firm feel. I also noticed that when it's not cold like today after work the pedal keeps it's firm feel even when the car has been off 9+ hours. When the clutch pedal is mushy it engages much lower than when it firms up causing high RPM lockout.

Just wondering if anyone might have an idea of what could be causing the problem? I'm going to check the fluid tomorrow morning and make sure it's on full, other than that I really don't have an idea of what to check for. The issue is frustrating because I get high RPM lockout in the morning when the clutch is mushy and I really enjoy hitting the on ramp to the highway at WOT.

Thanks for any insight!

Car background: 56k miles on the odometer.
Clutch was changed out about 7k miles ago from the stock one to a stage 1 Exedy and is running an OEM flywheel.
The car just had it's 60k service done about 200 miles ago and is running all OEM fluids.

 

Bump, checked the fluid an hour or so ago and it was full almost to the cap.

Anyone?

 

Was the clutch fluid changed during the 60k? I know when I worked for Mitsu we didn't normally change it, well it wasn't on our service guide at least. Just wondering if they did and there might possibly be a small amount of air in the system. Or if one of the seals in either the master or slave cylinders are worn and allowing a small amount of air to enter the system while it sits. It would be more noticable and a pain during colder weather since the viscocity of the fluid is heavier till it heats up and any small amount of air in the line or cylinder(s) would take longer to move through the line to the reservior. When it's cold, you could try to bleed the slave cylinder before you warm the car up and see if any air comes out. That's the only thing I can come up with. Btw, what temp is it in the am where you are?

 

Thanks for the response. I just text my shop asking if they could think of any reason the clutch would be doing this. I don't believe the clutch fluid was changed out during the 60k, just trans, diff and tc.

I would say the temp is around 40-45 degrees since I have started noticing the mushy pedal feel. Wouldn't the brakes feel mushy as well if there was air in the system or is the slave not related to the brakes? I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to brakes/clutches.

 

No worries, that's what the forums are here for, information. I've been a tech for over 10 years and I learn something new everyday. The brake hydraulic system is completely separate from the clutch system. They work independently of each other. Let us know what your shop says. 40-45 doesn't seem cold enough to cause this. I've read of other people having similar issues in much colder, near freezing climates, and it was just a symptom of the car. Once warmed up, it was ok and they just lived with it during the winter months. Where I'm at, it's just now getting into the low 50's in the am, and my 8 hasn't had any clutch issues. I'm not sure when the previous owner changed the fluid, it's on my list in the next week or two to change. I'm a believer in BG fluids, we use them at our shop, and I've used them for years on various car lines, never had any issues with them. I'll be flushing my brakes and clutch systems with their Ultra Dry Flush formula, Dot 4 fluid. It's good stuff. Like I said, let us know what they say, and if you can try to bleed the slave one morning before you start the car to see if there is any air in it.

 

I'll give it a shot, thanks for the info. Bleeding it looks pretty easy, maybe I can coax the ol' girlfriend to come out and help me one morning.

 

Lol, good luck with that! My wife has 0 interest in helping me. If you're in a pinch, a piece of vacuum hose, a soda bottle, and some brake fluid will work.
Punch a hole in the top of the bottle cap, fill the bottle with fluid (make sure it is clean and no moisture in it), shove the hose through the cap into the fluid, and set the bottle higher than the cylinder. Once you open the bleeder, start working the pedal up and down slowly, any air will be purged into the bottle and replaced with fluid on the upstroke. But it's way easier if she will just come lend you her foot for about 2 mins. Lol

 

Awesome man thanks for the insight! It didn't do it today and the temp was pretty much the same as the past 2 days in the morning. No clue why it magically worked like normal but I'll take it. Thanks again for the great info.