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3rd gear grinding after Clutch and Flywheel install.

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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 01:10 PM
  #16  
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From: Ireland
Originally Posted by Randal
I Rebleed it four times and drove it this morning and nothing. Just to clarify, the clutch pedal is all the way at the top. It's adjusted at the top of the screw end.
Its the rod from the pedal into the master cyl that you need to adjust
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #17  
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From: Georgia
Can it also be that the tranny was overfilled with oil and that a gear or synchro is not working properly?
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 07:20 AM
  #18  
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it would be unusual
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 05:01 PM
  #19  
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From: Georgia
Bleeding

Originally Posted by ILuvJDM
some people forget about the air trapped in the slave cylinder itself, make sure you bleed this way:

put the closed side of a wrench on the bleeder screw and attach a bleeding tool to the screw - this can be a gatorade bottle with clear line or a fancy bleeder bottle from a store, doesn't matter (you just want something that will not allow air to be sucked back in, plus you can see the fluid coming out and visually see the air bubbles although you can hear the difference in streams as well)

1) have someone in the car ready to push the clutch in when you tell them
2) grab the clutch fork and pull it inwards
3) while holding this fork inwards, break the bleeder screw - this should squirt fluid/air out
4) have the person in the car push the clutch in - this should get all the air out of the slave.
5) re-bleed the clutch line the normal way just to make sure there is no air in the system.

****Make sure your hand is not in a position where it will get crushed because when they push the clutch in it will push the fork out, even with the bleeder screw open****



that explanation might be a little scattered, so if that doesn't make any sense let me know and I'll re-type with better structure

So from what I understand its suppose to squirt twice? When you break the bleeder open and the also when you press the clutch?
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 08:19 PM
  #20  
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From: Austin, Texas
yeah it will squirt out when you crack the valve with the fork pulled in and then as the guy in the car pushes the clutch, it will push the fork away from your hand and will continue squirting fluid until the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Make sure you close the valve before he lets off the clutch or it will suck air back into the system

You should also repeat this process again just to make sure all the air is out. With the bleeder valve connected to a clear line you should be able to see either fluid with a bunch of air bubbles or just nice clean fluid. If you see nice clean solid fluid then you're good to go.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 12:54 PM
  #21  
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by ILuvJDM
yeah it will squirt out when you crack the valve with the fork pulled in and then as the guy in the car pushes the clutch, it will push the fork away from your hand and will continue squirting fluid until the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Make sure you close the valve before he lets off the clutch or it will suck air back into the system

You should also repeat this process again just to make sure all the air is out. With the bleeder valve connected to a clear line you should be able to see either fluid with a bunch of air bubbles or just nice clean fluid. If you see nice clean solid fluid then you're good to go.
Excellent. Will do and I will let you know.
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