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FP Red BB boost creep

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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 04:53 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by evolved0414
I have a ported 64mm red with map o2 and fp 25psi wg and i dont creep. What type of boost controller are u running again?
How much boost are you running? Have you tried to run below 25 psi to see if it creep? I dont have creep issues if i run 25 psi or higher.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #32  
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Interesting, I cant recall ever seeing an FP Red have that issue. Even with an O2 dump it doesnt seem to be an issue. I am with you though, if the actuator throws more it might be causing some issues.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 05:25 PM
  #33  
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Im tuned for 28. But i was having a big overboosting problem and it was due to a cut in my vacuum line so when i was tweaking my mbc back up to 28 i hit 12 then 18 then 25 and the finally 28 all without creep.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #34  
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did u do a boost leak test and not hear it? or did u not do one.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:40 PM
  #35  
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^ I don't think its the vac lines cause I inspect them good. Also when I set boost at 25 psi, its not laggy at all and full boost is at 3800 rpm.

I think the issues is no one have tried to run 20 psi with FP red yet
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:02 PM
  #36  
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20 PSI is not exactly FP Red territory, honda-guy. The last time that I checked that was still BBK-Full territory.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #37  
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I second that sparky. 20psi is barely over stock boost honda guy. Just curious...why would you only want to run 20 psi
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #38  
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You might try disconnecting the actuator rod. Just pop out the cotter pin and pry the turnbuckle off its home on the flapper pivot arm. You should be seeing 7-9 PSI this way(it's gonna be noisy though). Otherwise, if it is much higher, you are just gonna have to port the **** out of it. Is your housing not ported at all? Probably mondo back pressure then.

Last edited by sparky; Jan 19, 2013 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:22 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by evolved0414
I second that sparky. 20psi is barely over stock boost honda guy. Just curious...why would you only want to run 20 psi
I want to run 20 psi for DE events, less wear and tear and save on consumables. Then turn up to 25 psi for TT competition.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #40  
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This porting thing is not that hard to do. So, is your turbine housing unported...still a virgin?
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:48 PM
  #41  
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honda-guy: What were you and Aaron talking about with regard to your O2 housing? Does your hsg have the standard divider wall with a crossover port for the bypass exhaust gas to rejoin the turbine exit flow? I am just trying to understand and visualize how your housing is designed internally. You don't think that the housing might be contributing to your creep issue?
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 09:10 PM
  #42  
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Aaron pointed this out that the standard turbo shop turbine housing porting job opens up the turbine inlet area and unshrouds the exducer. They all do a pretty good job of this nowadays. It improves flow straight through the scroll, reducing back pressure and increasing shaft speeds.

However the turbo shops usually leave the wastegate bypass ports untouched. Exhaust flow through the turbine has been improved. But, bypass flow which is perpendicular to the main flow through the housing is neglected. So, wastegate performance can't bleed off sufficient exhaust gas from the main axial flow through the scroll. So there is more and higher speed exhaust hitting the blade tips. Thus, shaft speeds increase dramatically.

The bypass ports are barely up to the task of slowing down a stock MHI 16G turbine wheel. But there is no way they can bleed off enough exhaust flow for the much larger, higher inertia, lower back pressure FP Red/Black turbine, especially in "as cast" configuration. The bypass port needs to be ported.

Last edited by sparky; Jan 19, 2013 at 09:41 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by sparky
honda-guy: What were you and Aaron talking about with regard to your O2 housing? Does your hsg have the standard divider wall with a crossover port for the bypass exhaust gas to rejoin the turbine exit flow? I am just trying to understand and visualize how your housing is designed internally. You don't think that the housing might be contributing to your creep issue?
Its like the TiTek, fully open after the divider. Unlike something like the Megan where it had the divider wall and small opening to the tail of the O2 housing.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 10:22 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by sparky
Aaron pointed this out that the standard turbo shop turbine housing porting job opens up the turbine inlet area and unshrouds the exducer. They all do a pretty good job of this nowadays. It improves flow straight through the scroll, reducing back pressure and increasing shaft speeds.

However the turbo shops usually leave the wastegate bypass ports untouched. Exhaust flow through the turbine has been improved. But, bypass flow which is perpendicular to the main flow through the housing is neglected. So, wastegate performance can't bleed off sufficient exhaust gas from the main axial flow through the scroll. So there is more and higher speed exhaust hitting the blade tips. Thus, shaft speeds increase dramatically.

The bypass ports are barely up to the task of slowing down a stock MHI 16G turbine wheel. But there is no way they can bleed off enough exhaust flow for the much larger, higher inertia, lower back pressure FP Red/Black turbine, especially in "as cast" configuration. The bypass port needs to be ported.
the turbine inlet is ported and also unshroud the exducer, but the waste gate port is not ported. if i knew there was going to be boost creep running below 25 psi, i would have ported out the waste gate port before hand. just wanted to explore all options before i do that.
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 07:29 AM
  #45  
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Why do u say u cant run past23? Are you not allowed to use a boost controller?
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