FP Red BB boost creep
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dude i dnt knw for sure, i selected the option for porting, and it was dne, im just not sure exactly wat they port, i would assume just he compressor housing and the turbine housing, but not sure if they do the wastegate ports as well
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got done porting the waste gate port but probably wont have the turbo back on the car for several days. there's some other stuff i want to do while the turbo is out. hope this will reduce the boost creep to 20 psi. that's the lowest i'd want run with this turbo.
here's before porting.

only right side is ported.

both side is ported.

comparison between before and after ported.
pics of the inlet and exducer that i port.

here's before porting.

only right side is ported.

both side is ported.

comparison between before and after ported.
pics of the inlet and exducer that i port.

In your post # 63. The very 1st pic. Vidually focusing on the bypass port farthest to the left in that picture, the one that you can see straight through to its far side.
You need to flip the housing over and port the shortside, transitional, lead in radius to that particular port located in the turbine inlet area, not just the port exit at the flapper seat. This turn in radius needs to be opened up to help tangential flow into the bypass port. Please post some pics of the turbine inlet area. Thanks.
You need to flip the housing over and port the shortside, transitional, lead in radius to that particular port located in the turbine inlet area, not just the port exit at the flapper seat. This turn in radius needs to be opened up to help tangential flow into the bypass port. Please post some pics of the turbine inlet area. Thanks.
Last edited by sparky; Jan 21, 2013 at 08:34 PM.
I am basically echoing what Aaron states above. Post up some pics of the turbine inlet area. The turn in radius in question is the entry to the shortest port. If you stick a finger into each side of the divided inlet you will find that one of the two bypass ports is notably shorter than the other. In one port the flapper valve is noticeably closer to the port entry than in the second port...right?
As you poke your finger into that inlet chamber, your finger tip first arrives at a radius turn into that shortest port. Well, the area of that radius closest to the inlet flange where the serial number is stamped....that radiused part of the port entry is the specific location where you will need to grind. That radiused entry to the short bypass port, as cast, is a severe 90* acute corner. Open it up. This will ease the transition and improve flow into the port.
Btw, don't grind anymore at the port exits. The flapper valve has a certain amount of horizontal play across the seat. And you can run into sealing issues at that interface. At any rate, as Aaron pointed out, it is the port entry, not the port exit that requires transitional flow improvement. Yo!
As you poke your finger into that inlet chamber, your finger tip first arrives at a radius turn into that shortest port. Well, the area of that radius closest to the inlet flange where the serial number is stamped....that radiused part of the port entry is the specific location where you will need to grind. That radiused entry to the short bypass port, as cast, is a severe 90* acute corner. Open it up. This will ease the transition and improve flow into the port.
Btw, don't grind anymore at the port exits. The flapper valve has a certain amount of horizontal play across the seat. And you can run into sealing issues at that interface. At any rate, as Aaron pointed out, it is the port entry, not the port exit that requires transitional flow improvement. Yo!
Last edited by sparky; Jan 21, 2013 at 08:47 PM.
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i did grind some on the entry but i'm going to need a new longer carbide bit, the long one i had broke. so, basically the short runner entry is the one that i have to be concern about, as there isn't much i can do with the long runner entry?
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Btw, don't grind anymore at the port exits. The flapper valve has a certain amount of horizontal play across the seat. And you can run into sealing issues at that interface. At any rate, as Aaron pointed out, it is the port entry, not the port exit that requires transitional flow improvement. Yo!
The short runner's entry is the only one you actually need to port. So, focus on that port only. And furthermore on that short-side port focus primarily on the lead in radius closest to the turbine housing's inlet flange. This is the edge that the exhaust flow first "sees" upon exiting the ex. Manifold's collectorentering the turbine inlet. So, opening up that lead in edge helps redirect the exhaust flow into the bypass port. That shorty port is the main player. So, you will focus on removing material at the turn-in radius to that shorty port. Open it up from being a sharp 90* radius into being a smooth 120* radiused turn-in.
Last edited by sparky; Jan 22, 2013 at 05:12 AM.
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From: Central PA
did some more porting on the short waste gate port. didn't want to remove too much material. this is for a track car and i didn't want to compromise any structural integrity of the housing. i'll be happy if i can get the boost creep down to 20 psi
hey keep all of us updated when u get it back in and do sum testing. becuz from everything ive read on evom and everywhere else, i shouldnt b gettin as much creep as i am. BTW porting looks good man, wish i had the ***** to do it myself.
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From: Central PA
^ you should try what Sparky mentioned before. run with the wga removed (open waste gate) and see how bad the boost creep is. i was going try that before porting and do a before and after compassion but i was in a rush to get the turbo off.






