FP Red BB boost creep
They Dykem Blue the flat surface. They install the factory gasket over the two studs and align the remaining two bolt holes with the gasket and they scribe the TS openings in the gasket onto milled flat mating surface of the turbine housing. They port to the scribe marks. They taper down into the turbine inlet chamber. They do not port the entrances to the bypass ports...unless I missed something.
Likewise on the the exit side. They mount the factory gasket and scribe the mismatch. It's not rocket sci. I doubt that they spent much time on the entrances to the bypass ports though.
Likewise on the the exit side. They mount the factory gasket and scribe the mismatch. It's not rocket sci. I doubt that they spent much time on the entrances to the bypass ports though.
Im testing a new Ball Bearing setup this week with the o2 housing on it- and ill see if I can give some feedback on WGDC versus actual boost etc..
cb
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (55)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,589
Likes: 37
From: Central PA
Sparky, are you taking about the JMFab o2 housing or the new cbrd o2 housing. I have the JMFab o2 housing also that I was going to try but I don't think the boost creep issue is the o2 housing in my case.
Aaron
FYI, separating the cold and hot sides voids the FP warranty, if they figure out that you did it.
I'm surprised that you could only hit 23 psi with the OEM actuator. I had no problems running as high as 30 psi on the stock actuator on my old Red and Black. I wanted the softer actuator to run a meth failsafe. I used an EBC for boost control.
I'm surprised that you could only hit 23 psi with the OEM actuator. I had no problems running as high as 30 psi on the stock actuator on my old Red and Black. I wanted the softer actuator to run a meth failsafe. I used an EBC for boost control.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (55)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,589
Likes: 37
From: Central PA
^ really? Didnt know separating turbo would void warranty, but I figure racing would void warranty also 
When I had the stock wga on, I set the preload to minimal to see if i could keep the boost creep down. It might hold higher psi if I set more preload.

When I had the stock wga on, I set the preload to minimal to see if i could keep the boost creep down. It might hold higher psi if I set more preload.
Last edited by honda-guy; Jan 23, 2013 at 04:15 PM.
Yeah, I thought that a bit strange too, EVO8LTW. Stock IX actuator base spring pressure on a Red/Black should be around 12#. But, preloading to 23-24# should be doable and a 28-30# peak is w/i the realm of the imaginable. Like you said it would be a soft boost curve though. For Meth as you did it where you don't want too agressive a rate of spool until it starts spraying.... it would be nice. Not too desirable that soft w/E85 though.
As far as the merged CBRD design, I just personally like it. If I had the money I would buy it for myself. But, I have never tested it. That JMFab looks great. Stop making me jealous, honda-guy, with all those pics of fancy kit and hardware will ya....LOL.
So, I agree with Aaron in that I do not see O2 housing playing a role in your creep issue. The fact that you are running an O2 that is open (undivided) internally eliminates the O2 from the list of possible suspects in your creep case. This helps us focus on the unported bypass as the primary suspect.
I am also agreeing with Aaron (yes, it's easier to agree with him, LOL) about a possible 3-5 PSI reduction in creep if you port the entrance to the bypass passageway thuroughly.
You'll have to forgive me as I am travelling by car presently and am w/o my laptop. So, I am a bit handicapped because I am having a rough time at posting with my unsmartphone.
Last edited by sparky; Jan 24, 2013 at 05:11 AM.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (55)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,589
Likes: 37
From: Central PA
working on some additional crank ventilation while the turbo is out. i know using an AN fitting with 90* adapter would probably flow better but it would make the line too close to the down pipe for my linking. i did drill out the bandjo bolt to increase flow. i couldn't find any banjo fittings locally, so i'm using a fuel line that i has sitting around, i think it's -4AN. i'll also put a thermal sleeve on it. i ordered a bandjo fitting with 7mm barb end but wont be here till next week. so i just want to get the turbo back on the car this weekend to see if the porting help alleviate some boost creep.









