RussellDaniel

iTrader: (9)

I am tuned. Lol

Adroz

Was there a solution for this issue?? Mine is Speed Density tuned but I'm experiencing this problem with and without higher acceleration & sometimes while turning too. Appreciate if anyone with knowledge could help me out, it's VERY unfortunate for it to stall so consistently, especially if traffic on the highway comes to a halt, it has even stalled before I'm able to come to a complete stop thus losing braking power and nearly rear ending the car in front of me. Why does it seem like only Evos have these kind of weird *** problems? I love the damn car but it's giving me every reason to hate it. FML.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

sounds like its the Idle Air Control valve

Adroz

So I was told about the car having idle problems once I got the car, so once I bought it I replaced the IACV from Mitsubishi. I've only put about 3.5k miles on the vehicle; will it go bad that fast considering I haven't driven on it much?

schuhie

I had a similar issue that I was messing with for a while. I ended up finding a vacuum leak that caused the issue after trying different IACVs and MAPs.
For me, the leak I found was on the top of the throttle body where the EGR vacuum lines had been replaced with vacuum caps.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

ok. mine failed recently and I had a few times the engine dying making a normal turn. As schuhie said, look for leaks. I bought my evo9 for $17k/50kmi because the owner gave up on his idling issue, which i found to be one of the tiny hoses behind the manifold.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Vacuum leak, or could need to adjust the BISS some.

Adroz

I do suspect those vacuum lines but I have those 2 lines looped back to each other since I have deleted my EGR system and it seems like the line on top (firewall side) is left open originally looking at the Service Repair Manual. Only thing I can check is if the hose itself has a leak. Considering your lines were capped I assume that your EGR system is also deleted or stopped from utilization? Did you change the caps and kept it sealed or did you connect the lines back to where they belong?

Update: I just checked the hose that I have looped and it doesn't seem like there is any visible leak. I doubt it but I'm wondering if having it capped instead of it looped will make any difference.

Adroz

Alright, I'll check for vacuum leaks around the manifold & throttle body. Would it be safe to not check the lines behind the manifold since those are mainly EGR lines which I'm not using at all because I have the lines looped back to each other on the throttle body so basically the EGR vacuum system from the throttle body on is omitted already.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

dup

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

@Adroz
You shouldn't loop those two. one(FW side) is inside, the other is outside the throttle plate

Adroz

I see, then I need to cap both lines then right?

schuhie

Was going to say the same thing, don't loop them; cap them.
Vicious is right on the money as per usual lol

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

cap them, with zip ties. or put something inside your looped hose to block airflow.
you can use them for a boost/vacuum or just boost gauge. I use mine to actuate a normally-closed valve

Adroz

So I capped both lines and got to drive the car around, but I’m still experiencing stalling when coming to full stop. I assume theres a leak somewhere on the manifold but haven’t got to check it yet.