Good thread right here

 

I saw your post here, so I think I have an idea of the answer, but I'll ask anyhow. Assuming both turbos are in their powerband, how would you rate the "boost threshold + lag" time (time from mashing the gas pedal while cruising in vacuum to hitting target boost) of a JB HTA Green vs a BB Red?

 

Curious to why the 3586 turbo does not have a serial number or id tag on it?? (when the 3582 does)
How can one distinguish a 3586 since it has no real id markings??

Also wondering about anti surge compressor covers and 1, why we require them (does a turbo without one surge that bad?)and 2 what design is better drilled (bullet design) or slotted design? Why is it better than the other?

Thanks in advance
Chris

 

Sorry guys been busy I'll try and get to these questions today.

-Michael

 

If I throw a egr plate on there with a bung to read exhaust pressure... do you think the hta would read any different than the gt3076r at say 30psi? Mind you I dont make much more power past 30psi and just generate heat.

The talon weighs less and has a better turbine housing. What do you think would be realistic on a hta3076 with a .63 t3 5 bolt housing?

 

Also regarding the HTA GT3076R - I know the site says "57+lb/min" however Buschurs (and other) results seem to imply a fair bit more than that. Is it fair to speculate that the peak flow (as opposed to 'at least') could be in the mid/low 60lb/min area?

 

You need to offer a turbo between the 3076 and 3582/3586 just too wide a gap and there is a market for it, i know cause i had to go somewhere else to get it. Hope your working on that.

 

whatever happened to the FP White?

 

I would get kicked in my nuts if I commented on anything that may or may not be currently in development.

They are built with .015" Radial and .005" Axial play so anything outside of that may be a cause for concern.

If you have a 10.5 hotside I can upgrade it via the pricing on the website.

As for the covers yes I could do a group buy sort of thing but would need to be a run of at least 20 covers with at least 15 paid for up front. Lead time would be 4-6 weeks.

It's so subjective since it can vary from car to car and mod to mod but I would say 500RPM difference give or take.

3582 and 3586 both use the same cover which is a Garrett TO4S cover and neither have tags unless it's an older 3582 which has been upgraded then maybe it would have a serial number. The easiest way to tell is to look at the back of the seal plate there should be an 76/82/86/94 machined into it unless again it's and old 35R that's been upgraded.

A 35R is still considered big for a 2L motor it wasn't so long that people thought that 35R's were as big as the car could ever support. The surge porting is more of an insurance policy more than anything else it's there to help insure if there is any surge the turbo doesn't take a hit because of it. Would it surge bad without it, probably not real bad but the possibility is there and dependent on a lot of different factors.

Slotted or machined is typically better as it usually a design incorporated into the manufacturing of the housing. The drilled method is typically indicative of an after thought where stock housings are machined after being originally cast. However that doesn't always hold true but a lot are afterthoughts. So to paraphrase one is built to be surge ported and the other is modified to be surge ported (not always but a lot of times it is) that's why some manufacturers surge ported covers look exactly like a stock over with holes drilled in it. Also the machined ones typically have much better flow since any surge since it's more open.

Well if you're measuring pack pressure it would depend on the housing if they're both using the same turbine wheel and spinning at the same speed I don't think there would be a difference in back pressure.

Our DSM housing shakes out to be about a .71 a/r well not really but that's a different story. Why are you stuck in a .63? I would still suspect the turbo could make upwards of 525WHP even in that housing.

The actual rating is 59LB a minute.

We rate all of our turbos by the average joe building his car out of his garage will see not Curt Brown numbers. Curt Brown is awesome and backs his numbers up with results but at the end of the day most people don't have the ability to squeeze power out of setups like he can.

Do you mean a larger 30R based turbo or a smaller based 35R turbo like a 3576HTA?

We can build a 3082HTA or a 3576HTA but in our testing there wasn't enough gains either way to justify it in the DSM/EVO community. The 3082HTA spooled slower and didn't provide any significant gains up top over a the 3076HTA which even Buschur tested himself and conferred. The same with the 3576HTA spooled slower and didn't offer any gains up top to make it worth it.

Every car is unique and there might be some circumstances that warrant a hybrid like this but not usually in this market. So basically we're not seeing the same data you're seeing and have found that tree doesn't bare fruit.


It became the 71HTA.

-Michael

 

Well then looks like I will hold out a bit longer on the manifold shopping...

 

ID buy one, my buddy has one on his dsm vr4, so clean!

 

same "boost threshold + lag" differential question between 71HTA and 73HTA green

Can a 10.5 evo8 be upgraded into both the 71hta and 73hta green?

 

I think that FP no longer does upgrades based on the VIII 16G platform. You must send them a IX turbo. At least I think that's right.

 

I'm new to FP products. What's this I'm reading about transforming a IX turbo into an HTA71?

Or am I way off? Can we send our stock IX turbos in to get modified or something?

 

Similar question to the guy above me.. I know you guys do upgrades if you send in your Evo 9 turbo. But it's been awhile since I looked into it.. Was wondering what the most popular upgrade you guys have been doing with the 9 turbo.
I'm just looking for around ~425whp or so. What one would you recommend if I sent mine in? Are all the Reds BB now?
*trying to stay on a budget if possible
Thanks