I've searched and searched and have come up with nothing. Can anyone tell me the brand of the clutch thats used in a 2003 Evo 8? or if they're the same in the 9's?

Is it exedy? Sachs? something else?

The reason why i'm asking is because I can probably find one cheaper. I have an aftermarket clutch that the previous owner of my evo installed. It's only making around 320 horses so I doubt if I need a clutch that takes so much effort to push in. It just took a crap anyway. My mechanic said that the clutch is too heavy. I believe him, seeing that it's probably the heaviest clutch i've ever felt in a car. I've driven large trucks with lighter clutch pedal feel.

anyway, I'd rather not go through the dealer if I can find the same brand elsewhere.

 

Exedy.

 

Thanks!

 

How many miles is on your EVO?? If its around 60,000 miles, the clutch has probably been replaced. And probably replaced with a beefier clutch, thus giving you a harder engagement/ disengagement. The OEM or Exedy organic clutch is the easiest/ smoothest clutch out of all of them. So

If you can, take the dust cover or 'grommet' off the clutch housing (located towards front on bottom). Peek in there and tell us what color the pressure plate is.

 

the exedy organic leaves a lot to be desired however

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll do that as soon as I can. It has about 98,000 miles on it. Before the pedal died out on me, it grabbed and shifted just fine. Even now I can revmatch without a problem. It's just that it's so hard to push in, I think It's killing the pivot fork or slave/master cylinders. My mechanic says put in the OEM clutch.

I'm assuming it's either the fork, CMC, or retainer clip. Of course, I have no idea. lol.

 

With 98k you can kinda bet that have an aftermarket clutch. Let us know the color of the pressure plate.

Regarding the "pedal dying", clutch forks rarely break especially at your HP level. Definitely check the CMC for any leaks or seepage around the seal where the piston comes out/ in.

 

I didn't notice any leaks there. I removed the rubber boot. I will check it again, I was even thinking of changing the CMC just for the heck of it. It's cheaper than replacing the clutch.

 

Get your mechanic or if you can, to visually inspect through that peep hole I mentioned earlier, and see if the clutch fork/ TOB is still connected to the retaining clip. Located on the pressure plate. It would wise to check, before replacing a seemingly good CMC.

 

True, the OEM clutch is make by Exedy but that doesn't mean you can buy an OEM clutch from Exedy.

I'm still running my OEM at 85K but I remember when I first replaced the clutch in my DSM. The new clutch, all clean and greased up, needed about half the pedal effort as before.

 

Very true. Although Exedy makes the EVO clutch for Mitsu as the OEM, the clutch kit they sell on the aftermarket uses what I would call a "lesser quality" disc. The OE disc is a much more robust design. But on the other hand the pressure plates test identical.

The reason the old clutch (just about any new clutch) seems heavier on the pedal is for three reasons:
1. The pressure plate is not operating in the same working range. On a worn unit the pedal reaches peak spring load toward the floor. A new clutch operates in a range that is "over-center" so it has higher spring load at the top of the pedal stroke and reduces as your foot goes toward the floor.
2. The linkage has had many miles to lose lubrication and accumulate clutch dust which adds to the friction.
3. An older pressure plate will have all it's working parts worn and polluted with clutch dust, adding to the friction to operate the pressure plate.

 

Thanks for the info and your help guys. I've spent the whole day messing around with this issue. The CMC seems fine, no leaks. The CSC is also fine, no leaks, however... it's pushed allll the way out and can't go anymore.... So I decided to investigate. The actual pivot fork is pushed back and will not come back forward (towards the right) on it's own. I'm not SURE but I believe that it's supposed to sit on the RIGHT side, and the CSC is supposed to push it to the LEFT. The Pivot Fork is pushed so far to the left, it can't go any further.

I'm not sure, but I think that rules out both clutch cylinders. I pulled the pivot fork towards the right (with my hands) and it seems to move, but it makes a "tinking" noise. Almost as if there's a loose spring/clip inside. I took a video getting as far into the bell housing as I could. Hopefully someone can help me out.

btw, I have a yellow colored clutch cover. I read "ACT" clear as day on it, through the bell housing. I've left everything dismantled at a friends house until someone can either help me, or I get the cash for the parts/repairs. I'm assuming that my mechanic was right... the ACT clutch pressure plate is too heavy/strong for the other parts to handle.... Of course I'd rather he be proven wrong. I was JUST getting used to the clutch feel and how it puts my SRT4 to shame in the "spongyness dept." lol.

Thanks so much guys. Almost there...This evo is nearly perfect.

P.S. Before this all happened, I noticed a vibration/tinkering "feel" in the pedal if I rested my foot on it while cruising. I noticed it for about 15 minutes of driving, then the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor. I pulled it up with my foot and now it wont go in.

EDIT: I'll also note that I HAVE been searching the forums and I DID find people with similar issues, however none of the ones that I found actually POSTED what the problem/solution was. They simply disappear in mid-discussion. Whatever is wrong with my issue, I promise to LIST whatever I did to fix it. Thanks again everyone.

 

I'd be stoked to find an ACT clutch in my clutch housing now you can just rebuild it, if need be vs buying a complete clutch kit. I don't think you'll ever be able to replicate the "effortless" clutch pedal, as you had in your SRT... Evo's just require more HD clutches, in comparison..

Also if you can, take the CMC off the bell housing and see if the clutch fork moves from left to right (more accurately, passenger to driver side). It shouldn't.. The clutch fork should be held in by the "wave lock" retaining clip, and shouldn't be moving, easily. If it moves back and forth, you can assume it popped out.

Good luck man ! Keep us updated.

 

Thats EXACTLY what it's' doing. is allll the way on the passenger side. I can move it to the driver side with my hand. Here is a video clip with the slave cyl removed and me tinkering around inside the bell housing with a screw driver and flashlight.


from 0:25 the camera focuses and you can see very clearly inside.


from the beginning to the middle you can see clearly inside. My friend is holding the pivot towards the driver side so that I can get a clear shot of the pressure plate.

not sure what to do next, but you guys have been a great help. I appreciate it.

P.S. Sorry for the shaky camera, my friend was holding the pivot fork AND the camera while trying NOT to get his fingers crushed by me. I was trying to locate this fabled "clip" with an LED light and long flathead screwdriver.

 

Any other ideas while I still have everything taken apart?