just bought a Evo 5 GSR. doesn't smoke while under normal driving but when I boost hard it smokes really white and I notice oil is blowing through the intercooler piping(lots of oil flowing like water). SO I figure my turbo is bad.

Should I rebuild the turbo or just get a new one. I need the cheapest alternative to a bolt on turbo or another turbo kit (turbo+manifold that will fit) . I see bolt on turbo's that will bolt to the stock manifold Td06sl2r and OBX Green turbos. Are they any good? also will buying just the CHRA td06sl2r and the compressor housing work on my stock evo 5 10.5t housing?

Fortunately I bought the car with a built engine. I know that its bored and stroked. has a eagle stroker kit(crank & connecting rods) and Wiseco 8:1 pistons. Engine Head appears to be stock. Couldn't get much info from the past owner so don't kno the size of the engine CC's. I have FIC750cc injectors and a Apexi Power FC L Jetro. The car has a excedy twin disk clutch and a shoter final drive, gears run thru quickly.

My goal is to have a car I can enjoy on the street and occasionally the drag strip. I want to be able to run 11's or low 12's comfortable without herting the car. I don't intend on having more than 500 BHP. What would be the cheapest but best suitable turbo for me? I really would like to have one that bolts to the stock manifold as that will never crack but im willing to go to others as long as they have manifolds to make them work and they are affordable and offer great spool and flow.

 

The seals on your turbo are bad. That is why oil is able to flow into the exhaust, causing white smoke (burning of oil). It is very possible it only happens under boost.

For stock like boost, Id recommend FP71HTA, EF2/2.5, PTE BB 5858 (with MHI housing), FP Green or BBK. For more top end but laggier, FP Red, EF3, Kinugawa. Notice all these turbos are using MHI housings, for easy bolt on. For even more top end, and lag, running a FP Black or converting to T3 or larger will net big results, esp with race fuel. That said, any of the above turbos will perform that much better on race fuel.

Given your mods and goals, the Kinugawa seems be to your best choice. Cheapest of the bunch. Ability to net above 400bhp, and spools reasonably fast. With a slightly bigger budget, I would personally go for the EF3 or BBK.

Edit: you could always build a 9 MR turbo and net the goals you want. Though it wont be as easy and will require race fuel.

 

thanks for the advice.

I use Shell V Power fuel only in my car, all the time, hav nothing else available in my country, supposedly 98 RON. For drag racing I plan on using toluene mixed 1:2 or C16/Q16. E85 isn't available here.

Cars here hav a 157% tax and parts 65-85% taxed so upgrades will cost me way more than it would cost you guys to do the same upgrade. Hence the reason I want a really cost effective alternative.

Ive been looking at rebuilding the stock turbo if the comp-housing and bigger 20-25g wheels or td06sl2 CHRA will fit it. is the evo 5 turbo ex housing any different from the evo 9 aren't they both 10.5 ?

Kinugawa td06sl2 is interesting me the most is not, Arashi has the same turbo as well bolt on. FP's are great but will cost me too much here. however I see some gt35R's and 30 R t3 turbos for a lot less (eg. God Speed )than bolt ons but where do I get manifold for them and would they last.

 

98RON comes out to 93 octane. Better than most US states lol. The C16 will be a great mix for the track.

Is it possible to purchase from a private seller and not get taxed? Plenty of guys on here selling turbos.

Evo 4 through Evo 9 turbos all share the same 10.5 hotside. All those wheel options fit on a 10.5 frame.

Since you dont have a lot of options, the 10.5 build seems to be your best candidate. If your willing to sacrifice spool for more power, then the Garrett turbos would make sense. Though they will cost more in the end to setup, as you will need to upgrade the turbo manifold and possibly the radiator/fan. Tubular manifolds will last if taken care of, and have bracing.

The only tubular manifold Ive personally seen last over 3 years, is the Full Race manifolds.

 

evo4 had a 9t housing , jdm 7 / 8 had 9.8t , all evo 5/6 had 10.5t

 

have a look at cbrd turbos stock frame

 

Not to contradict anything mentioned here--- however, isnt white smoke a notorious sign of a blown head gasket? Rich= blk smoke, water burning- headgasket= wht smoke, and oil= gray smoke. Maybe just a semantic issue, but at least look at the radiator cap and oil filler cap and see if you dont have a milky foam around them, or dark colored radiator fluid. If so, you have a head gasket issue-- not a turbo issue. Just a precaution before you swap parts. GL.

 

Ahh yes you are correct. I meant to word it, any turbo from those years, with 10.5 hotside, can accept those upgrades. I believe you could also with the 9.8 but some machining would be involved.

meckert - This would be correct in most other cases. Oil in the intercooler pipes or on the turbo usually hints its the turbo seal. Though you should always do a leakdown and compression test when such problems arise. Its better to know then be surprised it was more than one thing.

 

meckert - This would be correct in most other cases. Oil in the intercooler pipes or on the turbo usually hints its the turbo seal. Though you should always do a leakdown and compression test when such problems arise. Its better to know then be surprised it was more than one thing.[/QUOTE]


Yep, you are correct. Just the wht smoke observation set me off. Better to check all options then make a bad assumption-- Thx and GL-

 

is there in / out play in the turbo shaft

 

yes there is a lil bit of play. at the shaft and its covered with lots of oil. I doubt its a head gasket or piston ring, the car would smoke constantly. I don't hav a compression tester so cant check for sure. when I bought the car I drained the oil an it was milky and foamy but I think that was some sort of oil treatment since the engine was built and never started ,sitting for 4 years. The oil in it now looks clean and radiator water coolant ok as well. car does not over heat.

Im in desperate search for a turbo, cant find one locally . so need to order one. I am travelling to the uk soon, hopefully I can pick up one over there. most likely a kinugawa 25G td06sl2r

 

Have you thought about buying a rebuild kit? They are only about $200, and there is loads of videos online how to rebuild them.

Then again you did mention wanting a bigger comp wheel. So if thats the case, ya the 25g should suit you nicely

 

I would love to rebuild it but having it balanced correctly is a concern.and if possible would really love to upgrade it with a larger 20-25g wheel and anti surge comp housing or td06 chra and housing bolted into my turbo housing but still haven't confired that this will work. are evo 5 turbos any different from evo 5's they hav same 10.5 housing but the compressor housing on the 9 looks bigger . I want to be sure before I do anything because I wont be able to return it as im over seas.

 

think I got my answers here from this post

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/en...-together.html

 

did a compression test and results were 155 in # 1,2 & 4 and 165 in #3, noticed some oil in the number 3 spark plug area, maybe that's causing the higher reading
not sure what the standard result numbers shud be. so let me kno what u guys think of the results.