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Shifting into first and reverse while stationary

Old Sep 20, 2013 | 12:10 PM
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From: St. Mary's County, MD
Shifting into first and reverse while stationary

I've searched these forums up and down for the past few days and did every suggestion known and still having issues.
Car drove fine, I was injured while working out and out for work for 2 months. During that time the car didn't move at all with exception to a few appointments and no issues.
I got the go ahead to start driving again, started it up, let it hit temp (2.3L), went to shift into reverse and it wouldn't budge. I figure my twin was worn out (almost 50,000 miles and a few track times) so ordered a complete rebuild kit including the ACT monolock.
Dropped trans, checked everything. All floater plates and clutch disks were replaced. The pressure plate was in great condition with no broken or bent fingers. I resurfaced my Exedy flywheel and it looked brand new.
Put everything on, all new fluids including the oil since it's been sitting so long. Started it up, same problem.
I readjusted the clutch adjustment rod and had to back the rod almost all the way out just so I can get it into gear after fighting a few minutes with it.
Bought a master clutch cylinder, installed it this morning, no change. Slave cylinder was replaced 9 months ago and no tears or leaks when I pull the boot off. No loss of fluid anywhere.
Checked my clutch lines and none are bent. Ripped up my console and couldn't find anything wrong there.
If the car is off, it easily goes into all gears smoothly. If I'm in motion, I can get them into gear. Stationary while the car is running is the problem.
My solution now is let it warm to temp, turn it off, put it in first or reverse, then start and go. Trans was rebuilt by Shep Racing along with transfer case with all available upgrades about 1 1/2 years ago. I'm completely out of options here and blind with what to do now. I heard about cutting the slave cylinder rod down a bit but heard that only "patches" the problem.
Shift bushings inside and out, SS clutch line all entire length, pill removed, fork stop mod with the bolt positioned about 1/8" from the fork. Also purchase the entire clutch fork rebuilt kit and installed a new fork. When I took everything out, the input shaft was not bent in anyway.
This year I've done no track, only wot pulls I did were for my tune, so basically drove it normally. Used Syncromesh for fluid (which I've always used)
Bled the crap out of it almost 5 times now and no bubbles whatsoever. Had someone push the clutch in and the slave pushed the fork with no issues.
Any other suggestions before I blow this damn thing?
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