Hi Everyone,

I’ve searched but with little luck so far.

I’m after some responses from people who use the BBK-3B on an stock block 2.0L
Most of my driving is through the mountains, hill climbs, time trials etc

any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

- Kurt

 

What gearing is in your Evo? Or what model Evo IX is it? At least in the US, there were no 07 Evos, AFAIK. 2006 was the only year that the IX was marketed, in the US at least.. 2008 was the first model year for the new X platform. Maybe Aus was different though.

 

Limiting choices for your stock displacement motor to the CBRD, stock-framed turbo lineup, you are either going to want the 3-B, or the original BBK-Full. Either one or the other, but whichever one, you definitely are going to want the ball bearing version. IMO, the 3-B, would be a good choice on a 2.3/2.4L engine, however it is going to be marginally too large for your driving application given the stock engine displacement limitation.

I would say for tight, mountain uphill, driving with the stock 2L., you probably want the fastest recovery time(transient response) possible after you lift off the throttle between shifts. Even if you no-lift shift, the 3B is gonna always be spinning at lower shaft speeds at the same roadspeed through the same corner all else remaining equal.

Thus, relative shaft speeds are lower with the 3B's larger, higher mass, wheels compared to the BBK-Full. This means that in tight corners and exiting onto short straights, whenever lifting off the throttle, to shift or slow for a corner, the 3B will always be in a less efficient, lower flow area of its compressor map in comparison to the Full.

Definitely, on the stock block, do a BB-Full for tight, mountain driving. The 3B would be better matched to a more open road course with sweeping turns and not as muckh throttle lifting. Just my .O2, which is not worth much.

Maybe this will help you put it in perspective: I drive an VIII RS with the short version, c.r., JDM RS 5-spd. gearbox. I have a JB Red on there (stock block) now. On tight mountain roads in 2-3-4 gears the Red is just too slow of a spooler. I decided to get a smaller turbo. I ended up getting a used Ball bearing BBK-B from Chad.

The interesting thing about my particular 3B, is that it was removed from a CBRD customer car. The original owner found it too slow spooling for his driving style. So, he had the 3B removed and replaced with a BB-Full. Now, he is happy. Food for thought.

Originally, I had narrowed my search for a faster spooling turbo to three choices. In my case, and for my intended application, the 3-B was on the large end of the spectrum. In the middle was the FP BB 73HTA Green w/9.8cm housing and finally the smallest...the BB Full.

Eventually, I ended up with the used 3B for economic reasons as I got a great price on it, used from Chad. But, if cost had not been a factor, I would have gotten a new BB-Full, or a FP BB HTA Green/9.8.

 

I personally think the 3B is too big for mountain tarmac style and hill climbs. I do both, had a JB BBK Full and even found that too laggy and slow out of slower/tighter corners and moved to the BBK Lite which I think is perfect and still makes good power. Depends what your power goals are though too I suppose and what your personal definition of laggy/slow transient response is.

 

Yeah, EvocentriK I agree with you. My car came with the TiAl JDM RS turbo which was fitted with the 9.8 housing. I liked that turbo's response. By contrast, the OS Green was kinda a dog in the response department with the 10.5 housing and even with a 9.0 it was still nothing to write home about.

The Lite would be even nastier with a ball bearing center section. Chad is willing to do a BB conversion on a Lite. Too bad that FP doesn't offer a BB version of their 71HTA. Both the Lite and the 71 are configured with the stock, high mass, inconel turbine wheel though. There is no valid reason why neither turbo is offered with either the TME, or the RS titanium aluminide wheels.

I would just personally prefer the Full to a Lite. I just don't like the relatively smallish, restrictive, stock turbine wheel. Also, I won't buy another journal bearing turbo except maybe in a diesel application.

I would never buy an HKS 7460 turbo either. I could not bear to live with the segmented rod on their actuator. The MAP EF2 is nice. But, it is not a ball bearing turbo. The IX RS turbo is way over priced and ultimately produces no more power than the standard IX turbo.

But, yes EvocentriK, I am basically in agreement with you in that for the OP's stated purpose either a JB Lite, or a BB Full would better fill the bill. A JB BBK-B would not be where it is at for canyon carving. I only opted for the BB-B because I couldn't afford a new BB-Full which was my first choice.

 

Hi sparky,

i appreciate your 0.02c’s worth
The gearing in my evo is the 6 speed box and its a 2007 model IX

From my research the 3B is smaller than the FP red in terms of flow 57-58lbs. One of the reasons i was looking into the 3B was the fact if i decided to build the motor i’d have something that would have quite a broad powerband and hopefully not drop off towards the end of the rpm.

Generally in mountains runs or time trials etc your revs are generally at 4,000rpm+ give or take so i would have thought that would have been perfect for the 3B.
Although mind you i am also interested in the new BBK Full Ball bearing

 

Sparky - I've had the JDM 9RS with the mag comp wheel/tial turbine. It had quick transient response but just lacked the midrange torque I feel you need in a close to full weight evo. With the lite it's making ~23.5psi @ 3650 rpm in 3rd on pump and transient response is very quick recovering to 25psi in <500ms so it feels very responsive and is definitely quick to spool (actually faster than a stock turbo/stock tune evo 7/8/9). The TiAl turbines are very expensive, cost is probably the reason behind them not being available for the Lite/HTA71.

evo9 - You really should match a turbo to your engine/needs, but if you must buy a turbo now to also suit a stroker down the track, yeah, get something larger and compromise response/spool on the 2L.

 

I am thinking that your gate needs more preload. If I was down under, I would drop by your garage and tinker with the spring pressure on your Lite a bit. Your Lite is fitted with the stock MHI IX WGA is it not? What boost control is on there?

My lethargic JB Red is seeing 22# by 3700-3800 RPM. Of course, I have the spring pressure set at 21#. With the Lite you should be seeing 23# by 3400 at the very latest. Otherwise throw a match at it. I would try adjusting spring pressure up to at least 18#, maybe even 20# on that Lite.

Now, if it is the stock actuator you will need to cut a 1/4" off the tip of the actuator rod, discard the turnbuckle's backup nut, and bottom the actuator rod out inside the turnbuckle, just for starters. This should get you in the ballpark at roughly 16-17# of spring pressure.