Brad penn oil
Brad penn oil
So I just had an Evo 8 motor rebuild by bucsher 2.3 stroker and all my friends in te area I live in tell me not to run brad penn oil in my car. I'm looking to see if anyone else has any input on a differnt oil to run instead of brad penn. It's what bucsher recommends but I don't want to take a chance and have to rebuild my motor agian in the next 10 thousand miles like I did last time. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
You aren't going to have an engine failure from using BP oil just because your friends said so. If it gets really cold, you might want try a synthetic 5w-50 up to 15w-50 but BP 20w-50 is great and is less than $6/qt.
Did your friends build your motor or did David? What makes you think your friends are more knowledgeable than your engine builder? While I have no personal experience with Brad Penn oil my recommendation would be to take his advice and use what he recommends.
^Exactly. All I've used in my 2.3L was BP 30wt break-in oil and then BP 20w-50 for 12k miles now. Just don't doing anything stupid like start up the engine and drive the **** out of it while the oil is cold. Even on an 80* day, it takes about 10 minutes of driving before the oil temp gets to 140F with oil of that weight.
^Exactly. All I've used in my 2.3L was BP 30wt break-in oil and then BP 20w-50 for 12k miles now. Just don't doing anything stupid like start up the engine and drive the **** out of it while the oil is cold. Even on an 80* day, it takes about 10 minutes of driving before the oil temp gets to 140F with oil of that weight.
Right and that is the down side of BP Oil or any other Oil that runs on the thick side of the viscosity, you have to warm it up for too long if you want to ensure wear does not occur.
We sometimes forget that most of the wear occurs doing the initial cold start up, why because while the engine sat all those hours the OIL drained all to the bottom of the engine (OIL pan) and when you start up the engine it takes a few seconds for the OIL pump to pump that oil back into the engine.
And to make matters worst if its super cold outside and the oil is to thick,, you now what happens next. Is like trying to sip on syrup...
Iv got a friend that has a high horse pulling tractor( I know different spectrum but work with me) and that's what his engine builder told him to use and all the other pullers were using as well. They all let tem warm up for pong enough befor running them down the track. On te other hand my friend with a Evo 9 running about 621hp to the wheels ran brad penn for 2800 miles always letting the car get to the correct operating temp. With 10:1 compression bucsher internals and he spun a bearing. I'm not tryig to say what bucsher is asking me to use is wrong just looking for some type of alternative if at all possible if not bp is what in gonna use
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I am surprised no one has asked is this engine broken in yet? Are you asking what oil to use for break in period? If it has NOT been broken in then you need to stay away from all synthetic oils until break in is complete. If break in is complete then a oil with a wide range of viscosity with a high amount of ZDDP is best.
Run it all out with this.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=ZRFQT-EA
Break it in with this:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=BRKQT-EA
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=ZRFQT-EA
Break it in with this:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=BRKQT-EA
Run it all out with this.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=ZRFQT-EA
Break it in with this:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=BRKQT-EA
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=ZRFQT-EA
Break it in with this:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=BRKQT-EA
Otherwise, I would just check with whoever built your engine(in this case BR) and see what he recommends with his motors.




