I just received my Buschur 2.5" DP today. I have already been Dynoflashed and will get reflashed with the new DP on the 20th. I hope the new downpipe coupled with my current mods and another reflash will do wonders for my car...

BTW...How hard is it to remove the Stock Downpipe and install this one??

 

Dude, just get an evo. Low end torque for the evo is not bad at all. I have 3 inches dp and an open air intake. It's still very drivable even under 3K. Who in the world would drive a standard under 2K anyway. Well, atleast I dont. But if you are talking about racing and stuff, the Evo stock turbo spools so fast, you wont have a problem getting to 7K. Matter or fact, I was scared to drive it fast when I first got it. From 3-7K, the rpm moves really fast, and if you are not use to driving it, you might run over the rev limit. R32 is a nice car, but I would rather wait until the release the turbo model. N/A is not going to pull it. If you want a nice N/A car with lots of torque down low, then there is no better canidate than the 350Z. Torque is everywhere!!!

 

The bolts are very tight. I had to use PB Blaster spray and finally, they loosened. Piece of cake once the bolts are loose. Just make sure you use jackstands or ramps for safety. With the Buschur, they say no gasket needed at the O2 housing. I would use a flat gasket anyway. Remember to remove the stock donut gasket off the O2 housing once the stock pipe is off. Start all the bolts hand tight and evenly tighten them down. Make sure you don't cross thread the O2 flange. Put the bolts in by hand first. And make sure you have an extension of about 6" to reach the spring bolts.

 

There is a guy called Moses here in the UK and he has a very nice new engine with the 3240 unit fitted. He said that the unit was hitting full boost around 3800 which is high, but with the smaller 3037 on the same engine (2.3 with all the trimmings) you would see it up to speed around 3000 I’d say. There is a smaller HKS unit (2835 I think) but that maybe to small with the stroker. If you are not worried about the top end, then a stock turbo on a 2.3 would be cheaper (with the bearing conversion you could minus 500 rpm) and you would see spool up at around the mid 2ks. But make shore the tuner that you use puts plenty of ignition in there, you may need water injection but it will help no end. The best bet is to speak to your tuner, as with all tuning the will be compromise, it just depends on how far you want to go.

 

I'd rather have a high-revving engine than something w a "slightly low" end torque. Mustering ~300-350 WTQ (maybe even close to 400WTQ) on like a BR580 and 580BHP with a 9000RPM redline is better to me.

Getting a stroker won't let you have this kind of a high redline.

If you wanted low-end torque, the STi would have been better in suiting your needs.

 

Turbine actuators control the release of exhaust gases from the spool up of the turbine fans. Its the metallic golden knob connected to the turbine wastegate. its an actuator. The actuator is actually a pressure control release valve that opens the turbine wastegate when the boost pressure reaches a certain preset value. It also holds the wastegate closed when boost is building up.

The stock springs in the stock actuator is relatively weak. When the turbine starts spooling up from the outgoing exhaust gases, sometimes the pressure of the exhaust gases escape thru the wastegate because the pressure holding the gate is insufficient thus increasing the time the pressure takes to build up.

Putting in an uprated aftermarket actuator stops the wastegate from opening before the boost pressure reaches its target thus reducing lag and pulling the maximum boost at a much lower RPM. It also allows you to pull more boost out of the stock turbine (assuming of course the other components are capable of handling the increased pressure e.g. suction piping and IC piping)

Coupling up the actuator with a good electronic boost controller that allows you to set the wastegate/actuator opening pressure allows you to fine tune your turbine to ensure that maximum boost is available at the soonest possible time. This of course takes a lot of adjustment to get the best but its all worth the time and money spent. At the moment, my evo starts spooling as low as 2500rpm and reaches full boost of 1.25 and 1.45 bar at approx 3200rpm and 3500rpm respectively.

Hope that helps.

 

Great torque numbers, I'm sure i can get more Low end power with upgraded intercooler piping and intercooler.

 

Great info guys, thanx.
I am definatly going to get an evo. I think Ill just get a fully loaded one with sunroof and 315Watt stereo. Get some mild mods (stage 2 buschur) and maybe a sway bar or springs. Then I can get use to the car till the clutch goes and then start working on a nice clutch and more power. Eventually (100K miles) I will hopefully have enough for a stroker kit and quick spooling turbo.

 

If handling out of the box is your key goal, you will not be dissapointed. Power can be added and if treated properly the 4G63 can last a very long time. I sold my 93 TSI Talon with 118,000 miles and running great. The only major problem was a balance shaft belt that broke and took the timing belt with it. And a few valves met Mr. Piston. That is unusual.

Also, I don't think you'll find a faster spooling turbo without giving up some power. Good luck and have fun!

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