To stroke or not to stroke
To stroke or not to stroke
My motor gave out on me last night, she shot a rod through the block. Now is my chance to build it. I've been looking at some threads and doing some research and I'm tossing around the idea of a built 2.0 or going with a 2.3 or 2.4. I would like for people who have went from a 2.0 or either a 2.3 or 2.4 to chime in. Any regrets? My goal for the car is for it to be fun on the street but still handle some 1320 abuse. Any info is greatly appreciated
If you're looking for a street car as well then I'd suggest the 2.3.. More torque, faster spool, powerband allll the way (with the correct turbo choice obviously). The only other option I can think of is a 2.4 but the 4g64 doesn't really amuse me for some reason though you'll see lots of really great cars with the 2.4 (ER, Tscomp, AMS etc..).
2.0+6466 = 5,500rpm-9,500rpm of powerband and 140mph+ traps.
^This setup will be fun on the street(Scary lol), and also be able to perform well at the track.
If you were to do a stroker it would be best to get a 4.11 final drive, if not you will be shifting for days trying to prevent the stroker from over revving.
^This setup will be fun on the street(Scary lol), and also be able to perform well at the track.
If you were to do a stroker it would be best to get a 4.11 final drive, if not you will be shifting for days trying to prevent the stroker from over revving.
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I think I spun a rod bearing. I was driving home on the highway and decided to do a 2nd gear pull. Break boosted, psi built to 15-17psi then she was moving like a bat out of hell lol. Ran 2-4th gear....decided to do it again before my exit came up, this time she didn't make it more than 2 seconds in 4th gear.
Mods- MAP EF2
Walbaro 450*
Fuel Lab FPR
Speed Density Coversion
GSC s2 cams and springs
02 dump
full 3" TBE
ETS intake
ETS 3.5" FMIC + Piping
BR OEM ported Intake mani/tb
FIC 1100cc injectors
Mods- MAP EF2
Walbaro 450*
Fuel Lab FPR
Speed Density Coversion
GSC s2 cams and springs
02 dump
full 3" TBE
ETS intake
ETS 3.5" FMIC + Piping
BR OEM ported Intake mani/tb
FIC 1100cc injectors
I think I spun a rod bearing. I was driving home on the highway and decided to do a 2nd gear pull. Break boosted, psi built to 15-17psi then she was moving like a bat out of hell lol. Ran 2-4th gear....decided to do it again before my exit came up, this time she didn't make it more than 2 seconds in 4th gear. Mods- MAP EF2 Walbaro 450* Fuel Lab FPR Speed Density Coversion GSC s2 cams and springs 02 dump full 3" TBE ETS intake ETS 3.5" FMIC + Piping BR OEM ported Intake mani/tb FIC 1100cc injectors
I'm also interested in these responses.
From my line of thinking, you also have to think about drivetrain and clutch when you choose a path. If you're going to be revving to 9,000rpm then you'll be in a different world of clutches which cost an arm and a leg compared to a single disk. But on the other hand, if your stroker makes enough torque then you will need a serious clutch regardless to hold that torque...
I think torque is fun but having a car that keeps pulling and pulling is very enjoyable. My brother had a built 402 running 8psi in his Z06 so it had both torque and HP, but it would plant you in your seat and feel like your face was melting off and just keep pulling and pulling haha
From my line of thinking, you also have to think about drivetrain and clutch when you choose a path. If you're going to be revving to 9,000rpm then you'll be in a different world of clutches which cost an arm and a leg compared to a single disk. But on the other hand, if your stroker makes enough torque then you will need a serious clutch regardless to hold that torque...
I think torque is fun but having a car that keeps pulling and pulling is very enjoyable. My brother had a built 402 running 8psi in his Z06 so it had both torque and HP, but it would plant you in your seat and feel like your face was melting off and just keep pulling and pulling haha
I'm in the same boat as you and have been going back and forth between a 2.0, 2.2, and a 2.3L. From what I have collected and researched my conclusions thus far are:
2.0L= Lag depending on turbo, Rev 9k+, but increased longevity (which is what I want)
2.2L= Much less turbo lag, Rev 9k+, but decrease in longevity of motor (which is a bummer)
2.3L= Much less turbo lag, Rev 8k max, but increased longevity (the rev range kills for highway pulls...)
2.4L= I am also looking into this from ER since they have a 4G63 based 2.4L. If you look up Akash and ER on YouTube you will see what a monster this car is.
Someone correct me if I am wrong but I have gotten this information from MANY owners themselves who have had these motors or have them currently. I autocross/road-race occasionally so that is also a factor in my book.
2.0L= Lag depending on turbo, Rev 9k+, but increased longevity (which is what I want)
2.2L= Much less turbo lag, Rev 9k+, but decrease in longevity of motor (which is a bummer)
2.3L= Much less turbo lag, Rev 8k max, but increased longevity (the rev range kills for highway pulls...)
2.4L= I am also looking into this from ER since they have a 4G63 based 2.4L. If you look up Akash and ER on YouTube you will see what a monster this car is.
Someone correct me if I am wrong but I have gotten this information from MANY owners themselves who have had these motors or have them currently. I autocross/road-race occasionally so that is also a factor in my book.
Waiting til 4500 on the street sucks bad enough. 5500 is intolerable. Specially given the idling manners of an engine that makes power up there.
The rule of thumb for the street no matter what platform you've got is get as many cubes in there as you can. Obviously there are trade offs, but I have found no reason not to build a 2.4.
The rule of thumb for the street no matter what platform you've got is get as many cubes in there as you can. Obviously there are trade offs, but I have found no reason not to build a 2.4.
I recently had the same decision to make. Went with a 2.3 built by Boostin Performance. OEM 4G64 crank, 9.5:1 compression. E85 eventually.
There is no "best" answer to this. You have to be honest with how you will use the car and what you enjoy about it. I had a BBK Full on stock block (93 octane) before. It spooled very close to stock but I could feel the little bit of extra lag when I drove my friend's exhaust/tune/stock turbo car back to back. I also did a lot of pulls working on the virtual tune with tscompusa and I remember one thing above all else. When a new map netted 20-30 extra whp up top, I had no idea before uploading to Virtual Dyno. Felt the same. When a new map netted 20-30 wtq down low, the car felt WAY faster.
What does that say about me? I guess I would enjoy a chipped diesel.
But I did a lot of reading and there's no mystery to it. Torque is fun. I remember a thread by someone working at FP describing his own car, 2.4 with HTA Green on E85 (if I recall correctly) being the most fun Evo he's ever driven. If you read Buschur's own guide on choosing engines, he has this to say about 2.3 stroker.
BR 2.3, This engine uses a 4G63 block with a longer stroke. For a car that is primarily street driven there is no better choice. The recommend RPM limit is 8500. This limits the speeds that can be reached in the 1/4 mile on the stock gear ratio. 142 mph is about the max in 4th gear. There are other gearing options available. General rule of thumb is if you want to go much quicker than 9.90's this is not the engine you should chose. IF you want a FUN car to drive, do autocross or road racing this is absolutely your best choice. Available in steel rods only.
I never plan on going faster than 9.90 and I don't want a turbo so big that I need to rev above 8500 to see best results with it, because then it will spool too slow to be fun for me. Decision was simple when I sat down and was honest with myself. Since I am the best example of a remorseful buyer that I know, sometimes I think I should have gone 2.0 and revved to the moon/made a million horsepower but meh. Maybe I'll have the funds for another Evo that does that some day.
As far as 4G64/2.4 goes, Buschur no longer builds them from what I was told. Head gasket issues and whatnot. If someone with that much Evo motor building experience thinks it isn't worth the hassle, I'm not going to disagree. No disrespect to any other shops rocking the 4G64.
There is no "best" answer to this. You have to be honest with how you will use the car and what you enjoy about it. I had a BBK Full on stock block (93 octane) before. It spooled very close to stock but I could feel the little bit of extra lag when I drove my friend's exhaust/tune/stock turbo car back to back. I also did a lot of pulls working on the virtual tune with tscompusa and I remember one thing above all else. When a new map netted 20-30 extra whp up top, I had no idea before uploading to Virtual Dyno. Felt the same. When a new map netted 20-30 wtq down low, the car felt WAY faster.
What does that say about me? I guess I would enjoy a chipped diesel.
But I did a lot of reading and there's no mystery to it. Torque is fun. I remember a thread by someone working at FP describing his own car, 2.4 with HTA Green on E85 (if I recall correctly) being the most fun Evo he's ever driven. If you read Buschur's own guide on choosing engines, he has this to say about 2.3 stroker.BR 2.3, This engine uses a 4G63 block with a longer stroke. For a car that is primarily street driven there is no better choice. The recommend RPM limit is 8500. This limits the speeds that can be reached in the 1/4 mile on the stock gear ratio. 142 mph is about the max in 4th gear. There are other gearing options available. General rule of thumb is if you want to go much quicker than 9.90's this is not the engine you should chose. IF you want a FUN car to drive, do autocross or road racing this is absolutely your best choice. Available in steel rods only.
I never plan on going faster than 9.90 and I don't want a turbo so big that I need to rev above 8500 to see best results with it, because then it will spool too slow to be fun for me. Decision was simple when I sat down and was honest with myself. Since I am the best example of a remorseful buyer that I know, sometimes I think I should have gone 2.0 and revved to the moon/made a million horsepower but meh. Maybe I'll have the funds for another Evo that does that some day.
As far as 4G64/2.4 goes, Buschur no longer builds them from what I was told. Head gasket issues and whatnot. If someone with that much Evo motor building experience thinks it isn't worth the hassle, I'm not going to disagree. No disrespect to any other shops rocking the 4G64.
I had a built 2.0L and loved it all the way up until I wanted to make 500HP on pump (93). Coming to the realization that I was probably NEVER going to get there on a stock frame turbo I went the T3 route and moved up to a GTX 3582R... and hello turbo lag :-( the car was great once you got to 4500 rpms, it actually felt like an evo again; and on E85 WoW! So long story short I sold my bottom end and the 2.3 is almost done going in. 2.3 FTW!!!







