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GT Spec exhaust manifold cracked

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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 07:25 PM
  #1  
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GT Spec (MAP) exhaust manifold cracked

This is actually the MAP Short Runner which I believe is identical to the GT Spec. When bought it, I knew there was a good chance that it would eventually happen. And it did. The weld heat affected zone where the cylinder #1 runner connects to the flange cracked. All the other welds look good, so I'm going to have it repaired and put it back in service.

Attached Thumbnails GT Spec exhaust manifold cracked-gt-spec-exhaust-manifold-cracked.jpg  

Last edited by mrfred; Mar 15, 2014 at 08:14 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 04:31 PM
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That's too bad.

how did this exh mani compare to a ported oem unit?

aby
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 05:05 PM
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Isn't this a regular occurrence with steel?

OEM piece is cast iron to mitigate wear caused by heat cycles IIRC.

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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Aby@MIL.SPEC
That's too bad.

how did this exh mani compare to a ported oem unit?

aby
I think the flow path is smoother than stock or ported stock, and the tubing size is plenty large. I can't imagine another stock frame manifold that flows better than this one. The only minor drawback is that its not a true equal-length header, and that it seems inevitable that its going to crack.

Originally Posted by golgo13
Isn't this a regular occurrence with steel?

OEM piece is cast iron to mitigate wear caused by heat cycles IIRC.

Yeah, I suppose. Its more common in the cheaper manifold. A proper post-weld stress relief heat treatment with the manifold attached to a jig would help, but I don't think anyone bothers with that.

Last edited by mrfred; Mar 16, 2014 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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Maddad, gt spec and a bunch if others are all the same piece rebranded.

I had a gt spec for my Subaru. It's of the better quality of cheaper stuff I believe ..

Post pics of repair!
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 06:55 AM
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From: San Elijo Hills, Ca.
Do you have a power & boost ramp up compare between the gt spec & ported oem?
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Aby@MIL.SPEC
Do you have a power & boost ramp up compare between the gt spec & ported oem?
I never had a ported OEM. Two tubular manifolds I tried a few years ago didn't do any better than stock. I think gains from any aftermarket manifold depend heavily on how hard the turbo is being pushed. If turbine backpressure is high (always for me), I think that gains from a manifold will be minimal.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:23 PM
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Thanks for sharing, Mychailo!

I am running the same thing with ceramic coated, so I guess all welded manifolds are subject to this problem only matter of when.

Mine is also bought from MAP, and MAP always provides great customer service, I hope they can take care of this one for you.

As far as I know this short runner is a HKS copy, and it is sold under many different brands.

So far satisfied with the result especially considering its price and availability.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:56 PM
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Im not sure if map would replace it. But it looks like a cheap fix.. Or look for a vendor that warranties their work.. i think toxic fab does..

Last edited by BkzProblem; Apr 10, 2014 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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Thanks. Its already been repaired and is back on my Evo. English Racing welded up the crack and then faced the mating surface which was pretty badly bowed when I took the manifold off my Evo.

Last edited by mrfred; Apr 10, 2014 at 11:46 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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I was actually saving up for a map short runner. Was hard deciding between the short and long runners, but if warranty is an issue, maybe other companies manifolds hold up better?
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 10:26 PM
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do those guys perge when they weld with nitrogen
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan4dc
I was actually saving up for a map short runner. Was hard deciding between the short and long runners, but if warranty is an issue, maybe other companies manifolds hold up better?
The MAP/GTSpec Short Runner is pretty well made. Note that the crack did not occur in the tubing but in the HAZ region on the flange. The flange had a pretty good bow when I took it off the car, so there was a strong force trying to pull the cylinder #1 and #4 runners out of the flange. I think the cracking could have been avoided if I had removed it after a few months of use, and then faced the flange flat to remove any bow that develops. For people who rely on shops for all their mods, its obviously not economically attractive to do this, but for the DIY folks, it is something to consider.
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