Hitting the limiter at 8k rpm on a built 2.0 should not have a profound effect on your internals (not unless you keep your foot down at the rev limiter for a noticeable amount of time, which I doubt anyone with a decent brain would do).

I'm presuming oil quality or, absolutely no offense intended, a build issue. Given that you've gone 3000 miles on your build without issues, I'm skeptical about the second option.

 

That's actually not strictly true we'll warranty it if it failed because we screwed up regardless of what oil you're using. You send it back in and the trust bearing is chewed up because the oil wasn't up to the task then that's a different story. We might still fix it for free as long as you pinky swear to put good oil in it.

I would hazard to guess that I could put crap GF-4 compliant 10w30 and Race 20w50 in two separate pans an heat both to 220*F and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the two.

- Michael

 

So what you saying? same **** different pile? lol

 

I guess what he's saying is why put crap oil in your engine when you have the choice to put better quality oil.

 

Oh ok. I thought I read it in your oil zinc content file on your website. Well there you go. Not only will FP back up their products, they'll also fix your screw ups if they're reasonable. Customer service at it's best with pinky swear warranty.

 

yea I drove it like a prius never pass 5k rpm for 3000 miles mostly just commuting to school 80 miles roundtrip a day. got a tune, car ran great for few more days then this lol

 

Well, as a wise man once said:

“It is nothing to have a car with less than 10 miles on it at 40 psi of boost and 10,000 rpm. If it is going to fail then it is going to fail at that point and running it for 2,000 miles (whatever) easy is not going to change that." - David Buschur

 

10w30 race oil despite having the same "viscosity" is MUCH MUCH MUCH better than an emissions compliant GF-4 10w30. Also that when heated to 220* you couldn't tell a 10w30 from a 20w50 oil there is a difference but unless you have some sophisticated testing equipment you wouldn't know. However the physical qualities of the oil are not what you're looking for it's the additives in the oil like zinc and phosphorus that do the heavy lifting in a quality racing oil.

-Michael

 

While any 10w-30 grade isn't necessarily the best viscosity option for a high specific output 4G63, there is no pattern of failure that points to this as why the engine is knocking. One would be wise to search elsewhere for the cause, or the situation may repeat itself.

Secondly, ZDDP had nothing to do with this. The 4G63 isn't as sensitive to reduced ZDDP content the way some other engines are, particularly those with shim and bucket valvetrains, and to a lesser extent, those with timing chains. Where ZDDP suddenly becomes more important with a 4G63 is when one uses a turbo with a steel thrust bearing (e.g. non-BB FP Red and Black). ZDDP is relevant in situations where two steel faces slide against each other at high pressures.

 

Very well explained!!