So this weekend I swapped a 2.4 into my friends cars. Ran great started the break in cycle and re-torquing the head studs. When he went to pull it out of the driveway, it wouldn't go into gear. With the car off, it will go into every gear just fine.

So I bled the clutch cylinder and adjusted the clutch pedal as far a possible with no luck.

We also noticed that the first time we mated the trans and clutch, the TOB fell off of the fork. When pulling the clutch fork all the way out, one of the ears on the TOB would start to come off. However this is with nothing in the way so I figured this would never happen with the clutch assembly in front of it. When pressing the clutch, you can see the pressure plate move in and out.

I've replaced about 20 clutches in these cars with no issues but is it possible to put the clutch disk in backwards? I wouldn't think so since the side that is thicker sits about 1/2 inch away from the flywheel.

 

I have to try it to know for sure but I think it is possible. BTW, there has recently been a rash of throw out bearings that come apart after being put into service. The throw out bearing actually separates into two pieces.

 

I'm having same issue with my new exedy twin and trans rebuild. I'm going to try replacing clutch master and slave since mine shifts if I shift through the gears before starting the car. But like barneyb said some of the tob have been separating and I replaced that with a brand new exedy tob when I did the job so I'm also going to pop the inspection cover and see if I also have that issue. Will keep u posted, at least if it is the tob I have the one I had on previously still and it only has about 6k miles on it so I'll just swap that one back in.

 

So I replaced the master and the slave today, and that made no difference initially, so that may not be your problem. But I was getting irritated with my afrs dropping to pig rich and slowly working their way up to stoich at idle so I decided to tackle that issue to take my mind of the clutch, well as it turns out the service manual I have is wrong again. It explicitly states that the intake cam position sensor does not have a paint dot on it, well as it turns out the cam sensor with the paint dot is for the intake side because when I swapped them again the afrs are perfect. So I said well I guess I'll try the clutch again while I have the car idling, and it locked me out at first but after a second or 2 it started shifting like normal. So my running theory is the engine harmonics were causing the clutch to drag and lock me out. So correct any engine issues you may have if its running rough. If it's not your issue may lie elsewhere or you may need to get a fluidampr or similar dampener since the stock one was not designed for the engine harmonics of a 2.4l.

 

Thanks for the input. Im going to try a few things. I can swap the fluidampr off of my car to try out. The AFRs are going rich but it needs a tune since we just replaced it from a 2.0 to a 2.4. It started perfect and idles fine. After about 10 minutes it starts to go rich, around 11.0 range.

As for the TOB, it was the same one I replaced last year and I dont think its broken. I can see the pressure plate move in and out. Im going to pull the trans friday and find out whats going on.