Evo 8 clutch issue
Evo 8 clutch issue
So I've done some research and cant find a solid answer.
Yesterday my car wouldn't go into gear when I left work. I turned off the car and it went through the gears like butter. So I adjusted the clutch in the parking lot. I had at all the way to the end of the adjustment rod and it was still hard to get into gear. The car would try to roll forward but I was able to get it home.
I ordered a new Clutch master cylinder and installed it tonight. After bleeding it the pedal felt way better and solid. It still does the same thing. I have the ACT monoloc and the MAP clutch fork stop. Not that this should matter but I figured I would mention it. One of the things I tried is press the clutch, put a screwdriver between the fork stop and the fork and repump the clutch so that it travels more. It was perfect going into gear when running. My thoughts are that the clutch is warped. It would have to have some serious warping though. I measured the fork movement. It moves about 3/4 of an inch. If anyone wants to measure the fork travel please let me know to compare before I pull the clutch.
The weird part is that once I get it into gear; it will go into gear every time and will go through all the gears. The car will not move and it is perfect. If you pump the clutch once, its hard to put into gear again and the car wants to roll. After it finally goes into gear, it will shift fine all over again. Im at a loss before I decide to pull the trans and check the clutch.
Mods: TRE built trans, AP SS clutch line and Exedy twin HD. I replaced the 2 disks and floater plate but the flywheel and pressure plate is original with 10K on it. I put about 1500 miles on this setup. It has been doing it since I had it together but I adjusted the clutch and it seemed to be fine for a few months.
I did polish the towers when I had it apart.
Any ideas???
Yesterday my car wouldn't go into gear when I left work. I turned off the car and it went through the gears like butter. So I adjusted the clutch in the parking lot. I had at all the way to the end of the adjustment rod and it was still hard to get into gear. The car would try to roll forward but I was able to get it home.
I ordered a new Clutch master cylinder and installed it tonight. After bleeding it the pedal felt way better and solid. It still does the same thing. I have the ACT monoloc and the MAP clutch fork stop. Not that this should matter but I figured I would mention it. One of the things I tried is press the clutch, put a screwdriver between the fork stop and the fork and repump the clutch so that it travels more. It was perfect going into gear when running. My thoughts are that the clutch is warped. It would have to have some serious warping though. I measured the fork movement. It moves about 3/4 of an inch. If anyone wants to measure the fork travel please let me know to compare before I pull the clutch.
The weird part is that once I get it into gear; it will go into gear every time and will go through all the gears. The car will not move and it is perfect. If you pump the clutch once, its hard to put into gear again and the car wants to roll. After it finally goes into gear, it will shift fine all over again. Im at a loss before I decide to pull the trans and check the clutch.
Mods: TRE built trans, AP SS clutch line and Exedy twin HD. I replaced the 2 disks and floater plate but the flywheel and pressure plate is original with 10K on it. I put about 1500 miles on this setup. It has been doing it since I had it together but I adjusted the clutch and it seemed to be fine for a few months.
I did polish the towers when I had it apart.
Any ideas???
Last edited by evolve_VIII; Sep 12, 2014 at 06:57 PM.
Ok first off your clutch pedal is way to far in you need to back it off. According to the Tech guy at Exedy Evan Kline (a buddy of mine) they recommend that the clutch be about 1/2 inch off the floor when installed. You need to back off the clutch pedal a tad I would say at least 3 full turns clockwise. As far as the car creeping off the line you need to turn the clutch master cylinder stud clockwise about another full turn. This should fix the problem. I know people will probably send you to Jacks thread on how to adjust your clutch yeah not so good ate all the teeth in my triple listening to that and Evan said dude no 1/2 inch off the floor that's it. I trust Evan being he designs this **** so that is what I will advise you to do. I noticed your from MI where bouts?
Ok first off your clutch pedal is way to far in you need to back it off. According to the Tech guy at Exedy Evan Kline (a buddy of mine) they recommend that the clutch be about 1/2 inch off the floor when installed. You need to back off the clutch pedal a tad I would say at least 3 full turns clockwise. As far as the car creeping off the line you need to turn the clutch master cylinder stud clockwise about another full turn. This should fix the problem. I know people will probably send you to Jacks thread on how to adjust your clutch yeah not so good ate all the teeth in my triple listening to that and Evan said dude no 1/2 inch off the floor that's it. I trust Evan being he designs this **** so that is what I will advise you to do. I noticed your from MI where bouts?
This sounds like a hydraulics issue with how you can get it to work by pumping the pedal. You already replaced the master, now replace the slave. Also, remove the clutch fork stop, it's not needed when running a monoloc.
Are you saying the engagement point should be 1/2" off the floor?
This sounds like a hydraulics issue with how you can get it to work by pumping the pedal. You already replaced the master, now replace the slave. Also, remove the clutch fork stop, it's not needed when running a monoloc.
This sounds like a hydraulics issue with how you can get it to work by pumping the pedal. You already replaced the master, now replace the slave. Also, remove the clutch fork stop, it's not needed when running a monoloc.
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