Well I just installed my Afc-2 today and did a few 3rd gear pulls and honestly the car didn't feel as it pulled as hard.... My settings are as follows.

93 Octane pump gas
Holding 20 psi
Lo 35%
Hi 65%
Knock like 2-3

1000 0
1600 0
2200 0
2800 +2
3400 +5
4000 +5
4600 +4
5200 0
5800 -4
6400 -7
7000 -9
7600 -9

I have a Cone filter, 3" cat back, and greddy profec b spec 2 holding 20 psi. Any help would be great. I have the settings positive lower to make up for the lean condition from the factory ECU when boost comes on. But I have noticed alot of you have ALL negative settings. Is that my problem?

 

1 Other thing. WHAT THE HELL! Do you do with the ECU wires and the field harness? There is like a **** ton of wires down there that little drop down panel will not go back on correctly...

 

I know that couple other people on the forum posted their settings before with similar mods...

you may wanna check them out

 

Before you get too frustrated with your settings..Just force an ECU reset by disconnecting the battery cables for awhile and let it relearn.. there's a trick to getting the wires to fit under that plastic cover, if you basically "fold" it up behind the ECU so it tucks up and the wires are up as far as possible, then get the plastic cover back over it.. It'll stay..

Your settings aren't unreasonable at all.. Positive settings are the right thing to do under boost, but I think they may be a little too rich I would run +2 at 4600 and +3 at 4000 and the lower RPM settings bump down 1%.. It may help a little..

The rest of your tune is a bit aggressive for some cars, unless you have a way of reading your A/F settings, I'd be a little careful with them at 20psi..

Honestly though, I think your experiencing a unique quirk about our cars.. Sometimes when they run stronger (after you put on a boost controller and get stable boost without it dropping off) and you get used to it.. Then do minor tuning, it tends to not feel noticable because its smooth from a third gear pull.. But if you run through the gears from a launch, you'll definitely notice a difference.

I had the same thing happen to me, but when I got to the track, I picked up several 10ths and a few mph...

BTW, the all negative settings recommended work best with a stock air-box.. with the cone filter, stick with keeping it a little from 3000-4000 or so..

 

Well my negative battery cable was unpluged the whole time I was messing with the ECU connections. So you think my settings are agressive? I am getting 2-3 knock counts..... I have read people with 143 or so... So what settings for my mods would you suggest on 93 pump gas?

 

Your really going to have to tune with a wideband to be sure whats going to work.. The fact that your knock count is low is a good thing, which means you can go more aggressive if you wanted to.. But a word of warning, at 20psi of boost, you would be on the verge of having to upgrade your fuel pump/injectors.. Don't get me wrong, its not necessary, but something to watch.

you can go as high as -12 at higher RPM, but at 20psi what you have should be fine.

Your setup is not that different than what I was running last summer.. and your settings are pretty close to what I ran, just not quite as rich at the low RPM range..

The reason it probably feels weaker at the moment is because its possible the low RPM settings are a little too rich, if your not experiencing boost spike, and goes to 20 and stays there, you can lean out those settings a bit...

 

Do you think the time my battery was disconnected was good enough?

 

Well i changed my positive figures to what you said and I also bumped my 6400-7600 1% richer... Another important factor. I am in South FL So i am at sea level. Just wanted to ad that LOL

 

Yeah, if it was disconnected for any more than 10 minutes it'll be enough to clear the ECU..

I have to say that trial and error will be your friend.. but from experience the "Pull" under load is the 2500-4500 rpm range so you can work with that area until you get something you like.

 

I have been doing some reading on here. I have seen some SERIOUS settings. Makes mine look like kids play.... I read a post about you trying someone's settings and your car was pulling timing. The settings were at the max -19.... Bet the car felt great but wasn't safe.... I am looking for something safe but also something worth the time and money I put into this thing. Does my ECU have to relarn again? Could that be why it isn't running it's best? Can you go on AIM so we can talk there?

 

As it is I only have the lo set and hi set then hi throttle correction... What are NE points? Is there anything else I need to set in the AFC to make it work better?

 

NE points are the points at which you set the RPM's to. In your case, your NE points are 1000, 1600, 2200, 2800... 7600 etc.

Your settings are pretty "average" in my experience. I am getting a free dyno run tomorrow, so I am trying out some new settings by increasing my % by 1 or 2.

I'll attach my sheets in a second so you can see what I am talking about.

 

I'm running:

turboback exhaust
SAFC
boost controller, 20-19psi to redline

Ok, can you see how my AFR drops from ~11 all the way down to 10 something above 5500 rpms? You should be able to theoretically lean it out till at least 11-11.5 all the way through redline. At 10 something, it is still ridiculously rich. And guess what my SAFC settings were for this tune?

3800 -3%
4200 -2%
4600 -1%
5400 -10%
6200 -12
6800 -9%
7000 -11%
7600 -11%

At -11%, I am still at 10 something AFR. I should be able to safely add another 2 points, at least, if not more. I have consistently heard from Buschur users that their off the shelf map ends at a -17%. That's pretty crazy if you ask me, but if they do that for off the shelf (and they know their stuff) I don't think there's any harm in trying it out, so long as you know your AFR's.

I'd find a dyno if I were you, it is the only way to fine tune these units.

 

So my Afc settings are too conservative?

 

It may or may not be depending on your car, but your settings are relatively "safe" for a baseline map. Meaning, they are ok since you have not been to a dyno yet. If you can't get your AFR's, then I wouldn't reommend leaning it out anymore. Without your AFR's, it's like playing with a blackbox, and you won't know until it's too late (when your engine decides to take a ****, and then you'll be SOL too).