Melted No. 1 Piston Intake Side....Twice
eh WRONG!.
ams, skunk and AEM for example give you 10-15HP at the top, but they **** up rest of the register on the way up!
car ive seen with powerfull low to midrange and continues all the way up had OEM intakes.. And everyone was portes..
i my self have a ported intake and oem trotthlebody.. engine is responding from 3.000rpm and doesnt stop until i hit the rpm limiter at 7800..
while when i had the Magnus Race intake, it was worse! way off!
ams, skunk and AEM for example give you 10-15HP at the top, but they **** up rest of the register on the way up!
car ive seen with powerfull low to midrange and continues all the way up had OEM intakes.. And everyone was portes..
i my self have a ported intake and oem trotthlebody.. engine is responding from 3.000rpm and doesnt stop until i hit the rpm limiter at 7800..
while when i had the Magnus Race intake, it was worse! way off!

http://highboostforum.com/forum/show...and-facts-only
Back on to the OPs subject.
check injector resistor pack / fuel pressure reg / remove pipe from fuel pressure solenoid and pipe direct to manifold /fuel pump relays or hardwire pump and get an fpr with a guage
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Thanks for the replies guys. The injectors were sent in and are flowing properly, I have removed the resistor pack as these are the high impedence FIC 2150cc injectors.
I do have a FPR with gauge however I do not have a log with it. During a couple of dyno pules before it blew I watched the FPR gauge and it held strong 80-85 psi through boost.
I do have a FPR with gauge however I do not have a log with it. During a couple of dyno pules before it blew I watched the FPR gauge and it held strong 80-85 psi through boost.
are you sure that injector signal is getting to the injector? even the the injector is fine i would check to see that the ecu is indeed outputting the fire signal. idk if the log reads the signal at the exit point of the ecu or somewhere else
AEM apparently doesn't have a fail safe in it for a failure of the Cam sensor like stock does. Buschur and several others have commented about it in the past. It is because of that it is recommended to use a NEW OEM Cam sensor and replace it on a regular basis plus use a Cam sensor heat shield.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
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From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Last night I checked the fuel filter and it looked good, I also checked voltage at the injector wiring harness clips all have 12v.
I never thought of the cam sensor being an issue. Max boost on the dyno this time was 36psi and fuel pressure was holding strong through the pull.
Attached are some logs from the pulls, let me know what you guys see. Also you will see that the knock sensor was noisy, we thought this was just engine noise given that it was picking up as much or more with a no boost acceleration pull on the dyno see "knocktest"
I never thought of the cam sensor being an issue. Max boost on the dyno this time was 36psi and fuel pressure was holding strong through the pull.
Attached are some logs from the pulls, let me know what you guys see. Also you will see that the knock sensor was noisy, we thought this was just engine noise given that it was picking up as much or more with a no boost acceleration pull on the dyno see "knocktest"


