Fireescape, I can sympathize with your situation. But batty is right there are no seals on a turbo that can blow. But to clarify if shaft gets loose then of course the seals can be damaged. So if you turbo has no abnormal shaft play the seals are fine in the turbo. It would be pointless to send turbo back to FP. FP has stated that the BB turbo design is more sensitive to crankcase pressure. And I believe with a better designed catch can you can solve your problem.

I have been running an hta green for three years. First two years I ran it with a mahle piston 2.3 engine with no catch can. i had no oil control issues. no oil in pipes. the third year i switched compression with another mahle 2.3 shortblock. everything was fine at 21psi. but since i was running lower compression this go round i needed to turbo boost up to 24psi to get same power. I then began to see oil in my pipes. I quickly checked for turbo shaft play but turbo felt normal, so i mediately eliminated turbo as the source of the problem. The engine didnt appear to have blow by. no pressure out of oil cap when engine is running at idle. dip stick never pops out. no catch and not much oil coming out of the lines off the valve cover. so I decided to make lines bigger off valve cover. that helped reduce problem and almost took care of issue. . so i new I was going in correct direction. i then made a sealed catch can with a filter that wont pass oil. and connected a line to turbo inlet pipe to add suction to catch catch can during boost,. walla it stopped the oil push cold.

There are three ways to ad suction to crank case pressure. using vacuum of exhaust flow, using vacuum at intake pipe, and an electric vac pump triggered with boost.

just because you werent pushing oil at 400hp doesnt mean your engine is in perfect shape. 490 hp is substantial amount more cylinder pressure. once ring seal is lost blow by is exponential.

the black vent line off can gets connected to intake pipe to ad suction.

 

As far as I know, no. BUT, CBRD uses the oil supply from the head.


I agree with what 94AWD is saying and his experiences have proven some of the causes.
I think that the size of the housings oil return has something to do with the issue as well. My green starting pushing oil out the compressor side but I noticed it got much worse when the weather was cold. I think that the BP 20/50 thickness at cold temps was also creating more pressure and causing the drain to "back up" and force oil out of the gas seals. This would happen at idle.
I am getting a CBRD BBK-3B and changing around my crank case ventilation after reading a lot of info and my own experience with my evo. I am going to a similar sealed setup like 94AWD instead of the current VTA setup and adding a "suction" line to the air intake.
I also did not like all of the condensation I would get with the VTA setup. It would cause a grey sludge build up in the dipstick tube.

 

sub'd. Interesting thread.

I have the JB Black with no oil issues. I have spiked 45psi with no problems with oil control and not a singe drop in the intake or lower IC pipe. Ever. I have had the turbo for 3 years running strong making the 550 to 700hp mark depending on tune and fuel used.

I only have 2 -6 lines form the valve cover to a VTA catch can. It is a built 2.4 with decent blow by due to larger ring gaps for higher boost.

 

The issues have been with the BB turbos, not JB turbos. The JB turbo have a different seal design and are also designed for more oil flow due to the journals.
I had 4, -6AN lines and still had these issues. The lines were 2 from the VC, 1 from a vented dipstick tube, and 1 from the balance shaft inspection hole breather.

 

A turbo isn't "designed" to be on a "tuned" engine. It is designed to work the way they do in OEM fashion.

I hope you get your car sorted out.

 

I actually have a dual circuit PCV system like stock. I have TWO vacuum sources to my intake. I have two PCV valves on my valve cover and I have two vacuum sources on the intake Manifold to work at idle. I have check valves to control the flow and I have a check valve to pop open if all else fails and vent to atmosphere. It is complicated and it was a pain to implement plus I zip tie my dipstick so it can't blow open. When I had just a vented valve cover with a single PCV I would blow CRAZY smoke under load. It is a pain in the ***.

 

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I am not blaming FP here. I think that there are a few factors that can make this happen. The biggest seems to be crankcase ventilation setups, and it seems like a lot of people are quick to point the blame at FP for it.
I am pretty sure that what I have in store will work. Posts like 94AWD and others that have tried different setups have me thinking that this new setup will be much more effective.

 

Do some more research, just cause it pushes some oil out of the compressor housing doesn't mean it is blown. Mine did this and when I sent it to FP they said it was an acceptable level.
If you have this problem it is most likely your crankcase ventilation setup.

 

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I know it is not with the JB turbos. Just stating my setup that has no issue with crank case pressure. If the gas ring or seal is different, it should be changed to correct this issue.

Spending 2500 on a turbo and it leak any oil is not acceptable. But thats just me. If you have to spend another grand just to reduce crank pressure and it still leak like other threads have stated, there is a problem.

 

Look for a thread that was made a few months ago, something like FP black leaking from compressor housing.

Just cause it leaks from there doesn't mean the turbo is blown.

 

rofl^

I still dont get making a stock frame turbo that is not bolt on

 

The bolt-on option is still available...

 

yeah but they want 300 bucks extra for the MHI hotside and then another 100 to coat it and then another 100 to port it and by that time you might as well just go with a precision turbo of your choice and manifold/wg downpipe etc can be had for cheaper. the only thing you retain with the new hotside is the manifold