So Zhong posted a thread a while ago, but never solved the problem: he will be trying V-band.

I am running a 2.3 stroker without balance shafts, so a bit more vibration.
The BBK-B is on stock manifold with stock hardware.
There is no evidence of Anti Seize being used.

The downpipe is MAP O2 Elimnator with recirculating waste gate flow, v-band, and flex joint.
You can see it here:https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...-downpipe.html

The O2 Elbow is not braced to the engine block like OEM.
I suspect/think that the lack of bracing causes all the exhaust reactions to engine movement to leverage huge forces through the downpipe to turbo to the turbo-to-manifold joint and the 4 bolts/nuts/studs.

Hence the failure. Loose hardware, blown gasket.

I am considering adding a brace from O2 Housing to Engine Block.

I am also considering adding a vertical brace from engine block (side facing the radiator) to the downpipe as it turns under the oil pan. Vertical stiff steel brace to tie the downpipe to engine block and take the strain off the turbo/manifold joint, to transfer the reactions from engine/exhaust through the bracket to the engine block.

I have received several endorsements for using stock hardware, but was strangle advised to also use Nickel Anti Seize to ensure the hardware stays on tight when torqued, and it also helps to achieve proper torque value.

I would hugely appreciate input on your experiences on track, when constantly driving at 7000+ rpm.

I am pretty sure the OEM bolts/nuts are really excellent. They are non-magnetic, leading me to suspect they are inconel. But i have no proof of that.

Thank you

 

I used the factory hardware with no issues(after having the same issues you are). Thing is the bolts need to be new, and the washers need to be the special mitsu washers. I slather the **** out of them with antisieze so that they can be removed if necessary without breaking. Just be sure to replace them every time.

The mitsu washers have the little dimples on one side.

 

I will buy new hardware and slosh them with Antiseize

What about bracing: did you brace anything?

 

I have the same setup as you, essentially, and haven't had any issues with the bolts backing out. I think like ExViTermini said, the key is using the OEM washers, and replacing them every time you pull the manifold/turbo apart. I have no added bracing on mine.

 

Can't you just take the car to FFTEC?

 

I have a 2.3 without balance shafts, FP manifold, FP Green HTA, Invidia O2 Housing and Invidia Downpipe and no brace for the O2 housing.

I have 2 trackdays, 50 or more pulls and no issues. I used all new own hardware when I assembled everything and torqued to spec.

 

Golgo13,
I can take car to FFTec but they have limited experience with road-racing cars. The bulk of their experience is with drag-racing cars, and now standing mile 1500whp GTRs and similar.

I want to assemble the collective experience and know-how to engineer the best solution to ensure the hardware-loosening never lurks its ugly head at me.


The new OEM hardware is obvious key-step, as well as dunking the fasteners with Nickel based high temperature anti-seize, and applying correct 40lb-ft torque.

I am considering bracing options: its easy to lower the downpipe, however its tight fit to create an effective O2 housing brace to block that is also economically viable. Fabrication is charged per time used, and it quickly escalates.
So before I define the bracing solution, if any, I want to examine the necessity and feasibility, options for maybe bracing only downpipe instead of O2 housing, and more.

The car is totally trouble free, except for the turbo mounting hardware. I want to make each track-outing an enjoyable low-stress event, focused on driving rather than necessitating maintenance and repair.

Thank you, looking forward to more feedback and suggestions

 

I use nord lock washers and copper based anti seize with new fasteners almost every time I remove anything turbo or exhaust related. If do end up reusing fasteners just make sure to clean them up real good with a tap or thread chaser. Good luck.

 

There are thousands of Evo owners that run similar setups with no issues. Another thing that can help is rechecking torque after the first time driving it.

The gasket expands and contracts and can make the bolts loose.

 

Thank you, yes, I will re-check.
I know there are many who drive the cars with same/similar setups.

I found that track-work does put uncommon stress on everything, but there are numerous tracked Evos with similar setups as well.

So now I am on fact finding mission, especially bracing.
Seems like nobody has implemented custom brace to replace the OEM.

I need to carefully examine the feasibility to implement it, I would feel far better having a braced O2 housing.