Here's a quick rundown of the parts that are the reason for this thread:
RRT built trans
QM 8 leg clutch
Clutch pedal stop

I got my build done with a built motor, New trans, clutch, etc etc. I've put 150 miles on the build and the trans shifts smooth, made pulls on the road, no problems there.

Before driving the car (or turning it on for that matter) I adjusted my clutch by putting the car on jackstands, having someone under the car turning the driveshaft while I slowly let out the pedal. As soon as it wasn't possible to turn the driveshaft, I put the pedal stop at that place and backed it off about 1/4"-1/2" from there for a bigger window.

I then drove the car and tried the 2-step, as I was on it, the car creeper foreward. I remember reading on Jack's trans website that if this happens, it's because of clutch drag. I quickly drove it home, adjusted the clutch pedal stop another 3/4" away from the engagement spot and tried it again, still creeped forward. I Kept adjusting it until it was a good 1" from the engagement spot and it still crept forward a little.

I put the car back on stands, and saw where the wheels start to turn while in gear, and it was quite a ways above that engagement spot too.

Has anyone had this problem while on the 2-step and have super clean shifts all the time still? Is this considered "clutch drag" or is it acceptable? Looking to get the longest life out of the parts as I can, and not have to pay for another trans rebuild anytime soon.

Thanks for any insight.

 

Yes your clutch is dragging. It is common even among built transmissions and high end clutches. I'm running a carbonetic triple with bushwacker trans and shifts perfect up til about 7200 but at 8k it takes it's time. I'm narrowing it down to harmonics and soon will try a good damper pulley. They work wonders for clutches and synchros by absorbing harmonics from the engine rather than rattling the clutch and trans causing drag and premature synchro wear.

 

I got my clutch used, but got new discs for it, and did not replace the floater. I'm wondering if it's the floater that's causing it. I just tried revving the motor while stationary to 7k and it still creeped forward even without a pedal stop installed, and the pedal adjusted up

 

Just out of curiosity...what block/crank are you running and did you remove the balance shafts?

 

It is common even among built transmissions and high end clutches

 

I'm pretty sure you're supposed to try and turn driveshaft while slowly pushing the clutch in, as soon as you can turn the driveshaft you want to adjust the pedal stop towards the floor. You said you adjusted it to where you couldn't move the driveshaft and that you backed off with the pedal stop. (Towards the driver). It sounds like you may have set the stop backwards. Unless you just put it into words wrong

 

Lol, yeah I worded it wrong. I had it setup to where thedriveshaft could be turned by hand, and backed off the pedal stop towards the firewall a little more to give me a little window.

I took it out again last night and removed the stop completely, which gave me 2" of extra throw. It still moved ever so little when I revved up to 7k. Even though I adjusted it with the driveshaft, I'm guessing it's still dragging a little, or is that common with these clutches? It seems like to me that if the car moves while revving it up at all, the clutch is dragging and the synchros are taking a beating.

I really don't want to take the trans out again if I can help it lol

 

Here you go their is even a video to show you how to adjust it. I have a exedy triple. The fix works perfectly. I 2 step at 7000-7500. You have to do both adjustments. The clutch pedal adjusted to the top and the master cylinder under the dash.

Master cylinder under dash

 

That worked fine for my triple too, but I have a hydro TOB now so a lot of that has nothing to do with the QM. No fork, no slave, etc.

 

Oh, man you should have KISS (keep it simple stupid) lol not sure what how to tackle that one. I hope you get it figured out.

 

So I removed the clutch, and replaced the floater plate and had the flywheel checked out to ensure it was true. I threw it all back in, and it's doing the same thing. I was thinking about trying a new harmonic balancer, but my motor was built with my stock one taken into consideration. Would that be the next step? I hatexted getting locked out and griding gears on my new trans. I'm ready to pull my hair out.

 

Sorry to come back to the old thread but did you ever figure this out? I just installed my new quarter master clutch and build transmission and clutch is dragging at high rpms. It was doing same thing on my old competition clutch. I have feeling it is something with the engine harmonic.