you are wrong. evo cranks (all 7 bolt cranks) are not hardened in any way shape or form. anyone who thinks they are, says otherwise simply does not know what he is talking about.

 

I can't find it now, but there's is a thread where a member had an evo crank rockwell tested as he cut into it, after (IIRC) .030" depth, it started getting significantly softer. How do you explain that with your claims of them not being surface hardened? Have you do any testing?

Aha. Post 34.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/502813-turned-crank-theory-controled-test-3.html

 

Aka you found the thread.. i also remembered that test.

I agree with tedb on his coment.. metals who have been surface hardened if turned and that hard surface is compromised the integrity has been compromised snd is a matter of time when it fails. Como knowledge in the engineering world

 

yes i have had both 6 bolt crank and 7 bolt cranks rockwell tested locally. the test is useless on crankshafts. the test requires a pin shaped bit to be forced into the metal. the bit has to penetrate the metal surface to a depth to get an accurate reading. the depth is greater than any would be surface hardening. so the two cranks measured the same for the test. 6 bolt cranks are clearly hardened. and the factory manual has a warning not to turn the crank or the hardened layer will be lost. there is no such warning in the 2g manuals with 7 bolt cranks. a simple file test shows how soft 7 bolt cranks are. same test shows 6 bolt cranks are very hard and slippery where it it otherwise easy to file on a 7 bolt crank. the surface hardness between the two cranks is not even a contest. its not even close. in practice i have driven on completely wiped out bearings with horrid audible knock. with 6 bolt cranks you can replace just bearings and be on your way. with 7 bolts the crank will be hurt EVERY time. seen dozens of people attempt in chassis bearing replacements on 7 bolts. with every one failing within a week.

all 7 bolt cranks are not hardened. its not a debate. its a fact.

 

94 means business and i am inclined to believe him. here is how i am gonna do my thread. i am gonna run this junk till it blows up or i sell it. either way i will be forthcoming with info. here is what i pulled out of my oil pump pickup. and the stupid auto trans adapter.

 

blocks back. flywheels cut.

 

had the machinist rouge the crank and measured and installed tonight. .002 on every main. let me tell you lucas oil assembly lube is some sticky shiznit.

 

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eagle rod small end doesnt fit in the piston. about .020 too wide. booooooooo. rings all gapped to .018 and .020 mains and big ends all clearance .002 i will have pics of the modified rod. any one else ever run into this?

 

ok. i told ya i would be honest and forthcoming. eagle rods(crs-5900-mbb) do not fit in wiseco stroker piston(667m855) . so i call wiseco and they so no sweat just have the supplier get a rma and we'll cut them for you. i then call the supplier and they say " no we just grind those rods to fit the pistons as to not dick up the balance". thats what i thought would be the solution. so i called my machinist and he was busy. so having a shop full of a bunch of stuff and another machinist with a full blown grinding rig in my back pocket i thought i would at least put a rod on my sander and see if it would cut it. i started with a measurement of 1.040" and sanded one side down to 1.015 parallel then flipped it and sanded the other side to 0.090. cool i got my .050 as wiseco suggested. WRONG. the edge of the topside of the rod still interfered. screw it if these rods get wiped out so be it. i then lapped them to fit in the dome. viola. fits fine. then i wanted to dry fit them on the pistons with no rings to check crank sideplay . clunk pistons hit the squirters. damn. bend the squirters to the center of the bore and all is well. pistons are loaded up and ready to swing. should also be clear on what i have. gtx3076r turbo. hks 264 cams, pump and a injector that scales to 665. 3" exhaust, bigger intercooler with piping.

 

shortblock assembled. i of course ordered a 1g headgasket. ooops. more later

 

it runs. doesnt leak a drop. we'll have to wait to drive it and i couldnt get it out of my drive way if i wanted. runs way smoother than i thought it would and makes a ton of oil pressure. i guess i should have went with something a little lighter than 10w-30 not to mention that its 15 degrees out.

 

Great job. I can't wait to see the final results

 

car runs great but, it knocks like crazy so much so i am sure its an electrical/knock sensor issue. it feels just like when i forgot to plug my knock sensor in . btw i think my harness has been cut into before so i will check. torque is gooood. i like it . smooth as glass.

 

log boost. you're liking reach boost threshold 300-500 rpm's sooner, and there is too much timing in that are. You likely need to move the time curve to the left. Also, depending on your boost control, you could be seeing higher boost due to the increased exhaust volume of the 2.3 over the 2.0..