before the torches and pitchforks come out i wanna say i have done this on multiple platforms before. turbo buick, turbo ls, turbo subaru, ford ,chevy etc. i am a proponent of doing all that you can yourself and it has rewarded me with much performance and knowledge. that being said it can all wad up into a ball of crap at any moment.
i bought a high mile evo viii from a used car jockey on ebay. good repaint , no rust, pretty good condition. it showed up with no oil in the trans. tons of leaks and no hose on the wastegate. great. luckily i got it on the cheap. vibrated like crazy but no codes made good boost (gt30) drove good. i worked on the tune and got it way way better. cool right? then my batt light starts flashing so i check the alternator. yep rattled all of the stave bolts out of it. new alt and as i rotated the engine backwards a little i hear it click. whatever. nope bad tensioner and i hopped teeth and wiped out all the intake valves. so head comes off new valves. guides are ok. i then notice that all of the pistons are in backwards. nice pull the pan and flip them. i have no idea why i didnt at least throw 40 bucks worth of rod bearings in it. fab up a cop setup which was one of the best things i have done to date. drove it a week back at the tune and spun a bearing. so now i am on the parts hunt.
a member here hooked me up with a 100mm crank and rods. i then bought a set of pistons . lets get it on.

 

My god. You have your hands full, best of luck on this build. Just when I thought I was up ****s creek with my headache, I see what you have on your plate. Please keep us updated with detailed pictures!!!

 

A 100mm crank isn't going to work without machining the block.

 

Yeah blocks at the machinists now. Wiseco 85.5 stroker pistons eagle h beams etc. If I need to clearance the block for the rods at home that's fine. Crank had to cut to 25/25

 

I used an OEM 4G64 crank, standard Wiseco pistons and Eagle H-beams, no machining to the block was needed.

 

H beams are fine, I beam's need some clearance work, not bad though. Cut cranks aren't the best idea in these motors, but it will work.

 

front cover is hosed. worse in person than pics. bearing surface shot.

 

crank is back from machine shop

 

I would not run that crank. They are surface hardened from the factory. Cutting them is a no-no...

 

sounds like a handful

 

folklore

 

Its not "folklore". Its pretty well documented that Evo cranks are induction hardened. This hardening can be ruined if the crank is subjected to too much heat while being cut, and the hardening only goes so deep. Also, the fillet at the edge of the journal is extremely difficult to replicate. And the polish on the journals in your pic looks pretty meh..

Hopefully it works for you, but it is highly not recommended.

 

fair enough and i am hopeful too, i may not know much about 4g63s but buscher racing does and i quote.

"I can tell you with complete certainty after building God only knows how many 4g63's if the machine shop is worth using at all a turned crank is no worse than a new stock crank. We build engines weekly with turned cranks, put them on the dyno and run them flat out to maximum RPM and boost levels within 10 pulls and send them down the road in customers cars that go for years and years and years.

There is no debate to whether a turned crank will hold up, they will absolutely."

the dullness is actually witness to the fact that its still hard to that depth.. but as i stated before it could all wad up.

 

this is the first pass of cleaning my lifters and half of it poured out with the diesel. so let this be a lesson. don't think your gonna get away with just slapping your head on your once wasted block. a good bath is imperative.

 

If the factory induction hardening is compromised by turning, that doesn't mean the crank is weaker in the context of acute strength. What is means is a softer journal surface is more prone to wear, which equates to lesser long-term service expectations and increased rate of failure should a bearing issue develop. In that sense, the crank is weaker from a perspective of long term durability.