Reverse Cooling the 4G63
Has anyone looked into this stuff? Its supposed to be pretty bad ***
http://mooreperformanceparts.com/products/moorecool/
http://mooreperformanceparts.com/products/moorecool/
Well...since this clearly isn't going anywhere else...I have no interest in special fluids in this application.
However, I use Engine Ice (propylene gylcol) in my dirt bike and it's well proven to help in that application. The most common issue with that application is the bikes boil over at slower speeds or when you have a tail wind (no fan) and are a non-return system so any coolant you lose won't come back as it cools off. The higher boiling point of Engine Ice prevents the initial loss of coolant. I've consistently seen my bike run cooler after switching. It also protects against freezing unlike straight water.
While the special fluid works in that case, it's most likely due to secondary reasons. I feel that if it wasn't for preventing boiling over, the bike would probably actually run a little hotter than with straight water.
I don't buy the "steam pocket" theory though on helping prevent local hotspots. If you had laminar flow, absolutely. But a mechanical pump is moving probably 75gpm at 8000RPM. It is highly turbulent flow, specifically to avoid thick boundary layers and to promote fluid mixing. You aren't going to get vapor build up on surfaces with those kind of flow conditions. Further more, you have the latent heat of vaporization at that point, local vaporization would actually mean it is taking MORE heat...A LOT MORE HEAT... away from that surface in order to produce that phase change.
However, I use Engine Ice (propylene gylcol) in my dirt bike and it's well proven to help in that application. The most common issue with that application is the bikes boil over at slower speeds or when you have a tail wind (no fan) and are a non-return system so any coolant you lose won't come back as it cools off. The higher boiling point of Engine Ice prevents the initial loss of coolant. I've consistently seen my bike run cooler after switching. It also protects against freezing unlike straight water.
While the special fluid works in that case, it's most likely due to secondary reasons. I feel that if it wasn't for preventing boiling over, the bike would probably actually run a little hotter than with straight water.
I don't buy the "steam pocket" theory though on helping prevent local hotspots. If you had laminar flow, absolutely. But a mechanical pump is moving probably 75gpm at 8000RPM. It is highly turbulent flow, specifically to avoid thick boundary layers and to promote fluid mixing. You aren't going to get vapor build up on surfaces with those kind of flow conditions. Further more, you have the latent heat of vaporization at that point, local vaporization would actually mean it is taking MORE heat...A LOT MORE HEAT... away from that surface in order to produce that phase change.
Last edited by 03whitegsr; Mar 10, 2015 at 08:52 PM.
I don't buy the "steam pocket" theory though on helping prevent local hotspots. If you had laminar flow, absolutely. But a mechanical pump is moving probably 75gpm at 8000RPM. It is highly turbulent flow, specifically to avoid thick boundary layers and to promote fluid mixing. You aren't going to get vapor build up on surfaces with those kind of flow conditions. Further more, you have the latent heat of vaporization at that point, local vaporization would actually mean it is taking MORE heat...A LOT MORE HEAT... away from that surface in order to produce that phase change.
Jeff's car runs cooler on Evan's than it did on water. We didnt run coolant in it before because MIR checks for coolant at World Cup. The temps never went over 169 even during an 8.20pass, it used to be 195-200.
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Is that for both coolant types running in the same direction?
We've never had an issue so I'm a little surprised to hear others have.
this just seems like a misleading statement. running coolant instead of water runs hotter PERIOD. no one makes a claim to otherwise.
The problem with mechanical pumps is they are based on engine speed. To get enough flow at low RPM use, you have to spin them fairly fast at idle. At high RPM, you are likely to run into cavitation or you are pumping way too much water anyway and are just wasting energy.
On the other side of that, you can slow the pump down to prevent wasted energy/cavitation at high RPM. Now it doesn't move enough water at idle...
In comes the electric pump with PWM control. Now you can run the pump as fast or slow as needed, independent of RPM. High load, low RPM? Crank it up. Low load cruising down the freeway with tons of airflow...slow it down and conserve power.
There is a reason OEMs are going to electric water pumps. They are more efficient overall. They do have a bunch of issues though at the same time and aren't free of downfalls.
Correct. In Jeff's car there is no coolant in the block so its always cooling the head first 
Havent used it in any of our road race stuff yet. I was turned onto it by a friend in Wichita with a 72mm car and it works great in that. We drove the car for 30 minutes, parked it, and pulled the cap off the car with it running and it had built zero pressure .
That is correct, I wasnt too clear on that. We ran water wetter as well with the water but it definitely decreased temps switching to the Evans.

That is correct, I wasnt too clear on that. We ran water wetter as well with the water but it definitely decreased temps switching to the Evans.
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I think Jerry's point is that all data indicate that Evan's should run hotter than any combination of water and coolant. Both the coolant and engine. Even the Evan's website says this.
And I was stating the exact opposite, it ran cooler with Evans at 62psi than water/water wetter.
what I was suggesting was for people of take your results with a grain of salt. something else changed to get the reverse results so it makes it a useless, misleading post. water/water wetter runs cooler than evans. period. I did the exact same switch and the two running tempts werent even close. water runs cooler. evans runs VERY hot. hope that clears it up for those thinking about switching.
Anybody tried reverse cooling the 4G63? For clarity, I mean pumping the coolant into the head first and then the exit would be out the block with the hope being reduced cylinder head temps.
I'm going with an electric water pump setup and no thermostat. I have an air bleed on the radiator and am thinking the TB 3/8" hose barb out the head for an engine bled. These would run to the top of a high mounted reservoir with a bottom drain going to the suction side of the pump to provide a constant air bleed system.
Thoughts, opinions and experience welcome.
I'm going with an electric water pump setup and no thermostat. I have an air bleed on the radiator and am thinking the TB 3/8" hose barb out the head for an engine bled. These would run to the top of a high mounted reservoir with a bottom drain going to the suction side of the pump to provide a constant air bleed system.
Thoughts, opinions and experience welcome.
Dan







