All you install gurus post up the secrets for a ~3hr. install
I'm doing mine in two weeks and want to use as many cheats as possible. I will document my install and make a how to that we could make a sticky. Please be as detailed with your explanations as possible. I have the shop manual, but need to know when not to follw the directions, and what to do instead of certain steps.

examples that I have found in this forum that need clarification for those that haven't done the install yet:

1. Completely remove the rear dogbone motor mount instead of dropping the front end.

Dropping front end?

2. instead of a slide hammer use a 2" pipe nipple 4"s long with a big fender washer and a long bolt.

what kind of long bolt?


I know there are more tricks out ther guys. Post them up and help the rest of us out.

 

 

I wish you luck. There have been several guys that have installed it, but haven't documented the work involved. Some have said they would, but never did.
If you do the change by all means break the tradition and share the knowledge.

 

The dogbone impedes the transmission from moving left/right for the most part. If you take it out you canslide the transmission right off the engine. Otherwise you'd have to lower the transmission down to a point where you can slide it off the engine.

It also helps to take off the front transmission mount from the transmission. It likes to run into the radiator hose when you're moving the transmission around.

 

WRC guys do it in few minutes, what's the big deal
Joking aside... please document because someone mentioned ~$500 for clutch change and that's just insane.

 

Actually, $500 is fair. The dealership quoted $1900 for labor and OEM parts and will only install a stock clutch. I told them you will never see me or my money. I can buy an aftermarket piece and have it installed for less than that.

BTW, my dealer does not sell driveline fuilds in small containers so they can rape you on fluid change service. I used aftermarket fluids and did it myself for less than $60. The dealer wanted almost $200 for tranny and diff service. It's a crime.

 

Well, with all other things being cheap in Vegas I guess something must be expensive

I still think $400-$500 is expensive for just work + $1500 for a decent clutch comes to dealer pricing and dealers are always going to be more expensive.
Not sure which fluids you refer to but I did the oil change at the dealers with my oil + their filter & gasket for the total of $40 (oil price included).

 

Oh yah, I don't know what kind of tool selection you have... but the more the better. In particular you'll need a bigass socket to take the axle nuts off with (our cars have big nuts, heh). I got lucky and had an impact kit with a big socket in it, so I didn't have to go buy one. I just checked the kit and it was marked 1.25"/32mm (though 1.25" is 31.75mm, hmmmm). At least, I'm 99% sure that was the one we used. It'd be nice if someone could verify this for me.

Those axle nuts also need a lot of torque when you're putting them back. The spec is somewhere up around 160ft.lbs. The +/- range will allow for 150 ft. lbs., so you'll need at least a 150 ft. lb. torque wrench.

Otherwise it's basically 10,12,14, and 17mm bolts everywhere. A few extensions also really help out, and I used universal joints and a wobble joint a few times too to get to those hard-to-reach places.

You're going to need a bunch of jackstands unless you are using a lift. I used 4 to hold up the car, one for the exhaust, and one more for the driveshaft.

I also used 3 jacks each time because I didn't have a proper transmission jack. So it took me two to get the trans up in there. One to support the weight and one out in the wheel well to control the tilt of the trans. The last one was used to hold the engine the first time I did the install (didn't work very well) and to hold the transfer up the second time (the transfer likes to fall forward towards the engine). The second time I did the install using an engine hoist to hold the engine up, that helped a lot.

Let's see... what else... I didn't take the driveshaft out, just unbolted it in the middle section and slid the shaft out of the transfer, then bolted it back up and supported the front section on a jack stand. That way I didn't have to worry about wrestling that snake out of or onto the car. It's awkward enough with it still bolted to the rear diff as-is.

And don't unclip the backup sensor and speedo sensor and the sensor themselves. Just follow the wires back until you find the connector on the side of the engine and unplug it and unclip that from the bracket. That's easier than taking out the two sensors. Just remember to hook it back up or you won't have a working speedo or back-up lights. Not that I'd know from experience.

 

I don't mean oil changes. They do not sell gear oils in quart containers, only 5 gallon drums. That's B.S. because if you want genuine Mitsu fluids, you are stuck with having them do the service. They do this on purpose to make money on labor.

I went to the GM dealer and bought Syncromesh for the tranny and Mobil 1 synth gear oil for the transfer. Screw the dealership.