Play in piston/rod...
I'd just say put in a new set of bearings. Worse case scenario you end up doing a rebuild either way. Although you're crankshaft might be more salvagable in it's current state if you rebuild right now.
i must have missed your video before.....
bearings or not, you should only have between 0.003-0.007 thrust for most rods makers... pauter usually runs looser than posted above, but those dont look like pauter rods.
i would pull all remaining pistons & rods & go thru eveything, it will only take a few more minutes, especially since the head is off.
i would be concerned about the journal of the crank & the thrust areas where the wiped out bearing was running.
bearings or not, you should only have between 0.003-0.007 thrust for most rods makers... pauter usually runs looser than posted above, but those dont look like pauter rods.
i would pull all remaining pistons & rods & go thru eveything, it will only take a few more minutes, especially since the head is off.
i would be concerned about the journal of the crank & the thrust areas where the wiped out bearing was running.
Do not just put new bearing in there. It definitely needs rebuilt. Send me a email or PM if you want help or you want to rebuild it yourself ill sell you the parts and give you some tips along the way, but when assembling its best to measure all clearances with gauges and so forth.
Also rod side clearance for most aftermarket rods based on the evo rod journal dia is actually .010-.012. and most do not clearance them, so manley turbo tuff end up around .008" but I dont recommend them that tight. I open them up because i try to do everything by the book.
If they are to tight, oil wont be able to escape from the cap as efficiently, and if you cant move oil quick enough the cap gets hot.
I would also replace the oil cooler in that engine for peace of mind. Once contaminates get trapped in the cooler they are impossible to flush out.
Also rod side clearance for most aftermarket rods based on the evo rod journal dia is actually .010-.012. and most do not clearance them, so manley turbo tuff end up around .008" but I dont recommend them that tight. I open them up because i try to do everything by the book.
If they are to tight, oil wont be able to escape from the cap as efficiently, and if you cant move oil quick enough the cap gets hot.
I would also replace the oil cooler in that engine for peace of mind. Once contaminates get trapped in the cooler they are impossible to flush out.
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