1000 whp build.. carrillo pro H beam vs I beam turbo tuff
May 20, 2015, 04:56 PM
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1000 whp build.. carrillo pro H beam vs I beam turbo tuff
Hi Guys
For about 50 psis and 9500 rpms abuse I have used both with great success on our drag car, got a new set of both types in front of me trying to decide the route to go
The debate here was made in 2011 maybe its time for new folks to share their experience with both of them in terms of longevity, power/torque ratings and rpms band
I still a little bit concerned about going the aluminum rod route as we dont have any experience on them (checking for oil clearances, streching etc etc)
thanks for the comments
For about 50 psis and 9500 rpms abuse I have used both with great success on our drag car, got a new set of both types in front of me trying to decide the route to go
The debate here was made in 2011 maybe its time for new folks to share their experience with both of them in terms of longevity, power/torque ratings and rpms band
I still a little bit concerned about going the aluminum rod route as we dont have any experience on them (checking for oil clearances, streching etc etc)
thanks for the comments
May 21, 2015, 06:44 AM
#4
I use the Manley 300m I beams. I cant attest to what they would be like at that power level....but at the time i purchased them they were one of the strongest rods you could get. They are a bit heavy compared to the carillo's but they're strong. Even the standard I beams are a brute. I would be leaning towards an i beams, but thats just personal preference.
May 21, 2015, 10:38 AM
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I only found an old post from one guy who broke carrillo H beam at around 1000 whps... but a couple of others who had rod premature bearing failures blame the turbo tuff to be so heavy with so much shock load at high rpms that will stress bearing surface too soon.
Some say r&r some say GRP aluminum rods but FFWD seems to have all the iinfo and parts needed to do the aluminum rod swap... if you buy GRps then you have to go to a different supplier like Jays racing to get the drilled bearings.. etc etc..
We have talked to a few tunners and power wise they all say stick with steel rods, but then when you take a look at them tearing apart engines after big numbers they show aluminum rods for this type of power..
I have been told Boosting Performance uses turbo tuff on this 1300 4g63 without issues but we have had friends at the track who saw they rods reaching the line first than the car.. maybe just BS.. but it seems the people who knows won´t tell their secrets that easily..
So we need to test..as the main issue with a bent or broken rod is pilot´s life at the track, we have very bad tracks without walls, that´s aour main issue here.. a broken block at 9500 means lots of oil to the slicks and a horror history then... so safety first
Any feedback that you have seen at the track with evo braking rods??
cheers
Some say r&r some say GRP aluminum rods but FFWD seems to have all the iinfo and parts needed to do the aluminum rod swap... if you buy GRps then you have to go to a different supplier like Jays racing to get the drilled bearings.. etc etc..
We have talked to a few tunners and power wise they all say stick with steel rods, but then when you take a look at them tearing apart engines after big numbers they show aluminum rods for this type of power..
I have been told Boosting Performance uses turbo tuff on this 1300 4g63 without issues but we have had friends at the track who saw they rods reaching the line first than the car.. maybe just BS.. but it seems the people who knows won´t tell their secrets that easily..
So we need to test..as the main issue with a bent or broken rod is pilot´s life at the track, we have very bad tracks without walls, that´s aour main issue here.. a broken block at 9500 means lots of oil to the slicks and a horror history then... so safety first
Any feedback that you have seen at the track with evo braking rods??
cheers
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May 21, 2015, 10:53 AM
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The Carrillo rods are some of the lightest rods around. And of good quality, there is nothing wrong with Carrillo rods.
High RPM can cause very real problems, weight becomes a huge issue here. You might cause damage due to rpm before you do because of actual power for example. The turbo tuff I beams are very strong, but also very heavy. Almost 100 grams heavier than the Carrillos!
Just something to think about...
High RPM can cause very real problems, weight becomes a huge issue here. You might cause damage due to rpm before you do because of actual power for example. The turbo tuff I beams are very strong, but also very heavy. Almost 100 grams heavier than the Carrillos!
Just something to think about...
May 21, 2015, 01:47 PM
#11
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You can always get steel R&R's. English uses the aluminum R&R's in their 1084whp LLR Evo running 200+ in the half mile..
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...084-744-a.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...084-744-a.html
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; May 21, 2015 at 01:49 PM.
May 26, 2015, 06:20 PM
#15
A customer car at AG AUTOSPORTS made 1100hp on carillos and beats on the day daily on the street for the past year +. Those are the rods I'll be using.
At the end of the day, high quality parts don't mean **** unless you have a high quality engine builder 😉
At the end of the day, high quality parts don't mean **** unless you have a high quality engine builder 😉