So I've been getting a weird spongy feeling in the clutch the past 2 weeks. This morning the clutch went to the floor, then just dropped all the way to the floor. Pushed the car into a Wendys and pulled the clutch pedal back up. Looked at the brake fluid level and it's topped off. I raised the clutch pedal and it stays up and won't go back down anymore. I looked at the slave cylinder and still shows it being pushed in still.
Clutch has about 60k miles on it(was an act solid street disc called a ACT HDTTP which i'm assuming was an HDSS but renamed for since a shop was selling it). Sounds like time for a new clutch? I enjoyed the act clutch, never really had issues until I glazed the clutch when doing a bad launch by letting it slip for to long. Wouldn't grab to well when going from a stop so I would get shudder's. Been like that for a good couple of years.
The car has 342 to the wheels. Since I didn't really have issues with the clutch itself except for my own error. Should I just stay with the same thing? Are there other clutches that are proven to be better and last if I treat it right?
Also planning on rebuilding the transmission synchros as well since 2nd, 5th and reverse would grind. Are the carbon synchros from Synchrotech the way to go when having it rebuilt? Also what other things should get done while the clutch and transmission is down? Car has about 90k miles on it now.
Thanks!
Clutch has about 60k miles on it(was an act solid street disc called a ACT HDTTP which i'm assuming was an HDSS but renamed for since a shop was selling it). Sounds like time for a new clutch? I enjoyed the act clutch, never really had issues until I glazed the clutch when doing a bad launch by letting it slip for to long. Wouldn't grab to well when going from a stop so I would get shudder's. Been like that for a good couple of years.
The car has 342 to the wheels. Since I didn't really have issues with the clutch itself except for my own error. Should I just stay with the same thing? Are there other clutches that are proven to be better and last if I treat it right?
Also planning on rebuilding the transmission synchros as well since 2nd, 5th and reverse would grind. Are the carbon synchros from Synchrotech the way to go when having it rebuilt? Also what other things should get done while the clutch and transmission is down? Car has about 90k miles on it now.
Thanks!
Newbie
If you plan on keeping the power you have then why not just get a newer version ACT that comes with monoloc collar.Of course new throwout bearing clutch fork stop if you don't have one and quality fluid.
Is the fork stop something worth getting for just a single disc clutch?
I don't really see a benefit on getting a twin while being at 342whp. It's a DD and at most I'll autocross once a year if lucky.
Newbie
Quote:
If you shift hard or fast it keeps the clip in place from popping off.Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts
Is the fork stop something worth getting for just a single disc clutch?
LetsGetThisDone
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Just get another ACT hdss. You can also upgrade to the XTSS for more holding capacity. It uses the same disk with a higher clamping force pressure plate.
Alright I'm just going to go with the HDSS then. Anybody have any suggestions on some wear items that should be replaced while the transmission is down?
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Get an OEM throwout bearing, don't use the one that comes in the clutch kit. Also, get new felt washer/gaksets for clutch fork shaft
Evolved Member
i like Clutch masters fx300 kevlar. smooth engagement for street and able to hold 440 whp on my car without problems.
I've got a competition clutch, stage 3 segmented disc with a resurfaced flywheel and I love the set up. I'm at 385 and my OEM clutch was slipping frequently. This clutch handles the power quite well with room to grow. I'd like to be at 450hp soon.
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