so.. i've never tested a new engine before. it's never been ran, so lifters haven't filled up. rings aren't broken. it's never been started, only turned over by hand a few times and while doing the timing belt.

i went to do a pressure test and got 0 psi with all the air coming out of the exhaust ports.

it it just because i haven't started it yet? i feel like a noob... but seems weird that i'm getting no pressure build up. is it getting past the IACV? the TB is definitely closed.

thanks in advance.

 

I would fire it up, let it fill the lifters and come up to temp to check for oil/coolant leaks. Then do the BLT. A small leak won't kill anything, and if you have to pull something back off to fix a leak, you have to redo the BLT anyways...

 

+1 I agree.

Just make sure all your intercooler piping is secure and all your vacuum lines are either plugged in or blocked off if you don't need them.

The engine must be in TDC with all the valves closed to do a boost leak test. Otherwise all the air will escape into the engine and out of the exhaust.

There was one time I tried to do a boost leak test with the wastegate actuator disconnected from the turbo hot side. I also found it to be 0 PSI, I felt so stupid after I found out what was happening. All the boost pressure was escaping, as it should!

-Pal215

 

There is no point where all the valves are closed. You have to find a point where you're not in the overlap portion of the cams on any one cylinder. It usually takes me 5-6 tries of spinning the crank 45 degrees at a time to find it when I'm doing a pressure test.

 

out of the vacuum line for the WGA?


yeah, i'll give that a shot after i run the engine for a few.

 

leak tester with tire valve.
large plug end for charge hose going to throttle body
90 degree gate valve with pressure gauge and with air hose input and air line output with adapter to screw to tire valve
large t- bolt clamp
Stock OEM Maf clamp



Remove Maf. Attach leak tester to intake of turbo ( i use the stock rubber intake )
Make sure the WGA line/boost solenoid hoses are secured. Block hose going from front of valve cover to turbo intake. Disconnect charge air hose from the throttle body and plug end. Attach air line/gate valve to tester.

i use large ring clamps on the leak tester and T bolt clamps on the large plug on the charge air hose. Make sure they are tight and secure.

I use a gate valve to add the air to the leak tester. Add air slowly. If you do it quickly the charge air hose plug might come off and go whistling past your head . my supply is 75 psi but I limit the test to 30 psi. If you have leaks in the charge air system, you will be able to hear them and test with soapy water.

My system removes the engine from the loop entirely.

The only other thing to check for leaks is the PCV valve. The factory OEM is far superior to the aftermarket ones. It snaps shut under boost and doesnt leak

~ :-)

 

You can't eliminate the intake manifold from the test, that's usually where I find leaks on most cars..

 

i've been doing builds and boost leak tests for years, but i appreciate your input. this is my first time on a fresh build with 0 hours on it. i started the car and it ran crappy until oil pressure came up and the lifters filled. i'm sure it will do better when i retest.
my test only differs from yours in that i put the tester on the inlet of the turbo. i don't use the intake arm, as it's not meant to see boost/pressure.

just hold the TB open while testing, yeah? or, after the initial test, i can pressurize the IM through a vacuum line?

 

Yea, I hold the TB open. That way you don't get the hiss from air going by the IACV..

 

^^ Knows what he's talking about.
My leaks have almost always been on the intake manifold or a coupler having a hole in it.

 

check to make sure your EGR lines arent swapped

cb