Hello everyone!

So Ive owned my 2006 Evo IX with 5 speed for almost 3 months now. In that time Ive been doing a lot of research and trying to freshen my car up. This is my daily driver so Im not interested (just yet) in getting into any crazy modifications. However I would like to take what is on the car now and get the most out of it. Again Ive done quite a bit of reading on here over the last 3 months, but this is my first turbocharged car, and there is a TON of info out there and Im trying to make heads or tails of it, while trying to make sense of the modifications already done to my car.

So Im hoping I can get a bit of guidance from you more experienced owners on how to make the most of what Ive got, and keep this car running happily for a long time.

Pictures can be found at the bottom.

So here is what is done to the car:

- DNP exhaust manifold
- Stock IX turbo
- Megan Racing O2 housing
- HKS 3" TBE
- HKS MBC
- AMS 3" FMIC
- Aftermarket upper intercooler pipe.
- Stock lower intercooler pipes (hot and cold side)
- Aftermarket intake pipe (thats too big for the MAF)
- Spectre Air Filter
- HKS BOV
- Some sort of sensor I am guessing its an IAT sensor but its never been hooked up.
- AMS fuel rail
- PTE 600-something cc Fuel Injectors
- Honda Civic DIY COP
- Apexi Turbo Timer
- Disabled EGR
- Solid Motor Mount inserts all the way around

And here is what I know at this point and what Id like to do:

- The PTE injectors are (IIRC) 670cc and the tune is still using the stock scaling... And it runs rich so I now it needs a good tune.
- Ive read that using the stock boost controller with a boost pill is better than an MBC is this true?
- Ive also read that you can run 20-25psi safely on stock turbo, and internals. Saw some kind of how-to about using a spring. Is this true? Is it safe? Highest I have seen on my boost gauge is probably 18psi.
- Only reason I can guess that there would be an IAT sensor is because someone was wanting to go speed density and never finished it. If I had a working tune on a 4 bar MAP would it be difficult, and/or worth my time to switch to speed density?
- The HKS BOV sounds cool but the car feels like it stutters sometimes, from my understanding this is because that air isnt getting diverted back into the intake. Should I switch back to a bypass setup?
- I want to get rid of those zipties holding up that intake...
- I would also like to relocate the battery to the trunk soon, when I do that Im hoping I can replace my upper intercooler piping to something with fewer bends.
- And the car had an aftermarket lower intercooler pipe on it. However it had a small hole about the size of the tip of pen in it. So I switched it out for a stock pipe I had laying around. I'd like to switch back to the aftermarket one if I can get the hole patched.
- The EGR is disabled, but still in the car. Ive been meaning to order the delete kit and just get rid of that system.
- I am aware of one of my exhaust manifold studs being broken. Its on my list of things to fix already... Plus I think they were over tightened by whoever put them on last. I am betting a bit of oil residue and Ive read that can be because of over torqued exhaust studs. For whatever reason whoever put on the manifold put two nuts on each stud... never seen that before myself thought it was odd.
- Yes I am aware of the most ghetto looking wiring for a sub ever on the battery. But it works though. I planned to fix it when I get the battery moved to the trunk.
- The car has a boost gauge, and an unhooked EGT gauge. I have a Zeitronix AFR gauge but I havent gotten around installing it yet. Didnt know if I should hook it up to just the gauge or wire it up so that it can be data logged or both. I saw a how to but didnt know which would be the better option. Im guessing logging it would be.
- Solid motor mounts on my 2004 RA were great. However with these inserts it rattles everything in the car... I dont mind it but I do get tired of questions from everyone about it my car is about to break. Is there any form of inbetween as far as solid mounts goes? On my RA I had the blox front roll stopper, and a urethane filled rear mount. and the vibrations could be felt in the steering wheel but none in the dash, console, rear seat... lol

So again any advice, and help you can provide will be tremendously appreciated. I plan on keeping this car for a very long time, so i want to get it running a good as it can.

Thank you so much!
-Josh

 

SELL IT...GET AN RA...
jk...lol


figured I'd finally put a response up....sine apparently every1 under the sun has seen this and still not responded...


good luck fixing it up...

 

Get rid of the hks bov. Grab an oem unit, specifically a metal oem ix dv. Find an oem or atleast an intake pipe that fits without those zipties lol

 

Looks like you bought a classic modified then returned to stock Evo. The IAT was likely used at one point for a speed density tune, which is also why the car has a VTA blow off valve. You either need to recirculate that to the intake, or do a speed density tune. The car needs a tune. A reputable tuner will set the boost, no need to worry about that, and the MBC is fine. I would fix all the little stuff you pointed out, get better injectors, do a boost leak test, fix any boost leaks, and get it tuned.


You're mostly off to a good start.

 

- The PTE injectors are (IIRC) 670cc and the tune is still using the stock scaling... And it runs rich so I now it needs a good tune.

this is a must. bad stuff happens when dumping too much fuel.

- Ive read that using the stock boost controller with a boost pill is better than an MBC is this true?

MBCs are fine. it's the simplest way to control boost. it's a good start.

- Ive also read that you can run 20-25psi safely on stock turbo, and internals. Saw some kind of how-to about using a spring. Is this true? Is it safe? Highest I have seen on my boost gauge is probably 18psi.

depends on a lot but mostly fuel. i run 25-26psi peak on 91oct. that's a good, safe boost level. it will taper to redline which is a good thing, too. don't go too crazy just yet
using a spring on the wastegate? as long as the preload is okay, no need. the boost controller will do all the work.

- Only reason I can guess that there would be an IAT sensor is because someone was wanting to go speed density and never finished it. If I had a working tune on a 4 bar MAP would it be difficult, and/or worth my time to switch to speed density?

as mentioned above, your car was probably returned to stock. the sensor being there doesn't hurt anything but yes: with a MAP sensor and the right intake, you can tune SD. or just keep it simple and leave as-is.

- The HKS BOV sounds cool but the car feels like it stutters sometimes, from my understanding this is because that air isnt getting diverted back into the intake. Should I switch back to a bypass setup?

VTA BOVs vent boost pressure to atmosphere that has already been read by the MAF. the ecu adds fuel according to what the MAF sees, so if the air isn't there, it runs rich. ditch the BOV asap and go back to OEM or a DV that recirculates. BOVs sound cool, but not needed.

- The EGR is disabled, but still in the car. Ive been meaning to order the delete kit and just get rid of that system.

i still have my EGR stuff, it's just disabled. i actually have a stainless steel plug in the cylinder head to keep gasses from heating up the intake. a block-off doesn't help the heat issue, so not really sure what benefit, if any, deleting the valve does. i suppose it simplifies the engine bay. that's always a good thing.

- I am aware of one of my exhaust manifold studs being broken. Its on my list of things to fix already... Plus I think they were over tightened by whoever put them on last. I am betting a bit of oil residue and Ive read that can be because of over torqued exhaust studs. For whatever reason whoever put on the manifold put two nuts on each stud... never seen that before myself thought it was odd.

you could be getting soot and condensation from the leak or are you sure it's oil? is the car blowing smoke at all?

- The car has a boost gauge, and an unhooked EGT gauge. I have a Zeitronix AFR gauge but I havent gotten around installing it yet. Didnt know if I should hook it up to just the gauge or wire it up so that it can be data logged or both. I saw a how to but didnt know which would be the better option. Im guessing logging it would be.

hook it asap so you can see what the car is doing. wiring it for logging can be done later. a tuner doesn't even need it wired in, unless you are doing e-tunes. but definitely get that thing hooked up. you may find your injectors are doing very bad things LOL

- Solid motor mounts on my 2004 RA were great. However with these inserts it rattles everything in the car... I dont mind it but I do get tired of questions from everyone about it my car is about to break. Is there any form of inbetween as far as solid mounts goes? On my RA I had the blox front roll stopper, and a urethane filled rear mount. and the vibrations could be felt in the steering wheel but none in the dash, console, rear seat... lol

if you plan to DD the car, the OEM mounts are fine and comfortable. i wouldn't do any type of harder or solid mounts.


you are on the right track! i'd be careful driving the car on those injectors without being scaled. you are dumping a lot of extra fuel into the motor and may be doing some damage.

 

I have AMS 75a durometer side mounts and front roll mount. I only get extra vibration at all idle, and I'm sure a lot of that is the lopey idle from the cams..

 

Thanks for the responses guys!

I'll work on getting that AFR gauge installed as soon as the weather breaks and gives me a good day to get out and do it. Anyone setup the zeitronix gauge before? Only reason I havent done it yet is because Ive been reluctant to go cutting up wires to install it. Is there a good location in the dash to tuck the box and get it wired up? I was thinking under the steering column, I figured all the power lines that I need would be there.

Would you recommend speed density on a daily driver? Does it make any drivability difference? I kind of would like to run without the MAF. But not if its going to make the car act weird.

I know if I did go the SD route that Id need the 4bar MAS. But what would I need to do about connecting the IAT? Ive tried to find details on that on here, but all I ever see is that you need the sensor, nothing about how to wire it in...


I dont think its a lot of oil, but I definitely think there is some residue coming through. It seems to be coming from the right side of the exhaust manifold. That location is saturated, and there are speckles elsewhere. Ive been driving the car and gotten it warmed up and noticed small wisps of smoke coming up from that area. One occasion I came to a stop and noticed smoke coming out of the hood vent, kind of alarmed me so I pulled over to look at it, but nothing seemed wrong. I have some pics in another thread if you want to take a look and see what you think. PICS HERE

Again thank you guys a lot for all the advice. Im kind of putting together a small parts list of things to help clean it up a bit.

Planning to redo the DIY COP harness to make it have less length.
EGR block off plate, and remove the canister.
Catch can. Id like to find a proper sized adapter for the PCV so I dont have to tap the valve cover.
Studs for the exhaust side. (if you all agree that residue could be oil)
4bar MAS (if speed desnity is cool to daily)

Im also starting to seriously think about relocating the battery to the trunk. I did this on my RA after killing an odyssey mini battery with a pretty harsh winter. I bought the taylor battery box and an Optima Red top. Originally I planned to swap that setup into the Evo. However I am wondering if a mini battery in the trunk would survive the winter since it wouldnt be as open to the elements as it was under the hood. Thoughts?

 

Speed density drives fine as long as you have a good tuner. Aaron at English Racing can remote tune you, as well as Tom at TSComp..

 

they say SD drives better, but i haven't tried it.

i'd clean everything in the engine compartment really well, then start looking for leaks and moisture. it's hard to tell once it starts spreading everywhere.

it SOUNDS like your exhaust manifold may be warped. if you literally have exhaust coming out from the flange, then that's a pretty clear-cut clue. personally, i wouldn't drive it that way. if exhaust is coming out, then cold air is also getting in and can crack a valve. it's possible, anyway. up to you if it's worth the risk.

or, judging by all the moisture in the engine bay, the smoke you saw could be oil or coolant burning off any of the hot parts.

cleaning it all and starting over is what i'd do. either way, good luck.

 

jic


he dropped by my work a few weeks ago and I pressure testing the cooling system up to 25psi and found no visible coolant leaks and no noticeable drop in pressure


I didn't have any brake cleaner or anything handy to clean the head off and see if it would come back and how quickly so we didn't...but would definitely be a good start to clean and see if/where it's coming from and more precisely whether it's oil or exhaust condensation or whatever it may be

 

HKS has parts for the bov to make it recirculating, if you want to keep it. Also check online for how to verify that the bov is authentic. It looks like a 1st gen ssqv and there are tons of knockoffs out there that look basically identical.


-Eric

 

I thought I had seen something like that before. I'll have to look into that.


On another note. The car started acting up on thanksgiving. Started spitting whenever it got above 14psi. I limped it home, but the next day it was doing it the whole time. But it wont spit in neutral...

I suspected a spark issue. So I replaced all the spark plugs, and inspected the COP setup. Found no issues. Put it all back together and it still spitting. Noticed something weird this time. When it spit a few times the BOV was opening. Ive been trying to imagine why that happened.

So for now she is parked in the garage. I discovered that the turbo has bad seals while I was poking around looking for whats going on. So I pulled the manifold and turbo last night so that I can rebuild it. I was suspecting the manifold was cracked because I noticed it was smoking a lot from beneath 2 and 3 runners while it was cold. But after pulling the manifold I discoved that the gasket was split in two. So Im thinking that was the issue there, manifold looks fine upon visual inspection. I pulled all of the manifold studs out, discovered another broken one while doing so.

Plan for now is to do a compression test and make sure that something internally didnt screw up. I have Evo VIII injectors and bypass valve just sitting around. Im thinking about putting those in the car and writing a stock tune to the ECU until I can have it properly tuned for the bigger injectors, and HKS BOV. Does anyone know if there would be any problem running a VIII bypass valve on a IX?

 

the VIII and IX DVs are the same, other than one being plastic and one being metal. you can use it.

your poor car seems like non-stop issues. it goes that way, some times. hang in there, man. once it's fixed, you will be stoked. it's worth it!

 

Awesome thanks man!

Yea... LOL My wife keeps nagging cause its one thing after another. But I didnt buy an Evo expecting it to be in perfect condition. Its a road going race car, its gunna be beat on a bit, you dont buy one to be a grandma in it. Once I work out the kinks it'll be great I think.

 

that is true. when i bought mine, the clutch didn't work, there was a bad repaint to the front bumper cover and front, driver fender. i also had low compression in cylinder 3 and some other stuff. and this was from a private dealer LOL.
so, i haggled a price and fixed the mechanical issues. i just got the paint done. it has been a long process (building the engine twice, etc).. but i LOVE driving the car.
when i met my GF it was in the middle of the last build and paint. she was like, "do you ever drive it?" haha.