Exedy vs Competition
Hey everyone, I've seen a few writes about this but my questions weren't answered very well so i figured id ask it myself.
I plan on installing a new clutch with my new set up, Built 2.0L with fp black plan on making 600ish hp and high to low 4-500's wtq i was wondering what clutch i should run, some say the comp twin will handle it yet the exedy twin won't last long, so i was looking into the comp triple and exedy triple to handle the power, but I've also been told i should buy the QM 8leg with Hydraulic TOB. this isn't my daily but in the summer i drive it 3-4 days a week, so i was wondering how the daily street driving will be with each of these clutches. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
I plan on installing a new clutch with my new set up, Built 2.0L with fp black plan on making 600ish hp and high to low 4-500's wtq i was wondering what clutch i should run, some say the comp twin will handle it yet the exedy twin won't last long, so i was looking into the comp triple and exedy triple to handle the power, but I've also been told i should buy the QM 8leg with Hydraulic TOB. this isn't my daily but in the summer i drive it 3-4 days a week, so i was wondering how the daily street driving will be with each of these clutches. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
If you're going to drag race get the exedy triple, not twin. I killed the twin quick on fp black at the track. I found the triple was easier on the street as well, but sine people have had other experience; without a doubt in my car peddle was lighter and clutch less on/off with the triple.
QM is an on/off switch, and can be embarrassing on the street. It's cheap to rebuild, but also never lasted long for me. I never broke a QM in properly though either.
I've never ran a comp.
QM is an on/off switch, and can be embarrassing on the street. It's cheap to rebuild, but also never lasted long for me. I never broke a QM in properly though either.
I've never ran a comp.
the exedy twin is an excellent clutch but it has a few caveats. first of all, it has the thinnest out-of-the-box friction material out of any clutch i have ever seen, even when babied i dont think youll see more than 40-50k miles out of one. mine saw less than 25k mixed street/auto-x/strip use before failing completely. i rebuilt it and had no issues but it was frustrating to drop almost $1000 on a rebuild kit and and spend an evening doing the job just knowing that it was probably going to happen again in another 20-30k miles.
also, if you go the exedy clutch route it is imperative to polish the towers that the clutch cover bolts to and the plates slide in/out on BEFORE installing your clutch. doing a clutch job and then doing it AGAIN is not a fun task.
regardless, i cant deny that the feel, drive ability and performance of the exedy twin was excellent, far better than any other single-plate or (ugh..) pucked clutch. its easy to drive and great to launch, never had high-rpm lockout even towards the end of its life
all that said, i think the exedy triple is the best bet (3 plates, less wear on the friction material + an extra metal disk for added heat dissipation + more grab)
i think that only thing better than an exedy twin or triple would be a QM or tilton push-style multi-plate with a hydro TOB. however, there is an added cost and i have heard that the hydro TOB can be difficult to drive aggressively. i cannot verify that as i have never driven an evo with a hydro setup like that.
also, if you go the exedy clutch route it is imperative to polish the towers that the clutch cover bolts to and the plates slide in/out on BEFORE installing your clutch. doing a clutch job and then doing it AGAIN is not a fun task.
regardless, i cant deny that the feel, drive ability and performance of the exedy twin was excellent, far better than any other single-plate or (ugh..) pucked clutch. its easy to drive and great to launch, never had high-rpm lockout even towards the end of its life
all that said, i think the exedy triple is the best bet (3 plates, less wear on the friction material + an extra metal disk for added heat dissipation + more grab)
i think that only thing better than an exedy twin or triple would be a QM or tilton push-style multi-plate with a hydro TOB. however, there is an added cost and i have heard that the hydro TOB can be difficult to drive aggressively. i cannot verify that as i have never driven an evo with a hydro setup like that.
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I have talked to many people it will be a street driven car but used mainly for drag racing many people have told me the exedy heats up really quick and is hard to get into gear under high rpm's and high boost, also heard they do not last that long as you said they don't have a lot of friction material, I have a comp stage 2 now that will not hold 600+hp and 500+ tq... Comp claims their twin can take 750awtq but its hard to believe when the exedy twin only holds 500, which is why I was looking at the triples from both companies, I want to say the QM will be last option due to street drivability, rebuild cost and the pain of the install.
i currently have a tilton twin with the hydraulic tob in my evo 8 and a comp clutch stage 3 with lightweight flywheel in my 9.
the tilton is easier to drive IMO and i am replacing the comp clutch with an exedy twin and hoping for the best of all worlds for a daily driver with over 450hp
the tilton is easier to drive IMO and i am replacing the comp clutch with an exedy twin and hoping for the best of all worlds for a daily driver with over 450hp
I have talked to many people it will be a street driven car but used mainly for drag racing many people have told me the exedy heats up really quick and is hard to get into gear under high rpm's and high boost, also heard they do not last that long as you said they don't have a lot of friction material, I have a comp stage 2 now that will not hold 600+hp and 500+ tq... Comp claims their twin can take 750awtq but its hard to believe when the exedy twin only holds 500, which is why I was looking at the triples from both companies, I want to say the QM will be last option due to street drivability, rebuild cost and the pain of the install.
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